Remove shiny bits?

Hello everyone, I am in the throes of replacing the boot/trunk? lid on my Series 3 Sovereign. Does any one know how to remove the shiny strip just below the lock assembly? Part nos, BAC1835, BAC1834 and BAC2726. It looks as if it is just grab and pull but I don’t want to damage these bits if possible.

There are four little pins on each of of those mouldings that fit into small metal clips that fit into holes in the trunk lid. It is very easy to break off those small pins on the mouldings. There is no reason to ask how I know that. :wink:

I recommend that you spray something like Kroil or PB Blaster behind that molding so that it will lubricate this pins and metal clips. Then gently pry the moldings free. But, don’t be surprised if you break off some of the pins.


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Paul, yes I thought as much. I can see the pins as I’ve currently have the lid out and upside down so access is fairly good for once. I noticed that the metal looks quite bubbly on the replacement lid whereas the original lid’s metal is still quite good so I’ll change those out if I can get them off in one piece. Did you have any problems refitting them after breaking some of the pins?

I have purchased three Series III XJ6 parts cars over the years and was lucky to get some of these moldings off without breating their four pins. So after the repaint, when I removed this molding, I cleaned and polished the best of my moldings with all four pins intact and installed them. I have not reinstalled any of these moldings unless all four pins were intact. I can not offer an opinion on installing moldings with a broken pin or two, although I guess it depends on how many pins get broken and which ones.


I devised a system for replacing the pins…(if the mouldings are very thin with a semi-circular profile)

that is, I purchased thin SS screws & nuts, heads fit the moulding groove…ovalised the head of the screw in a vice so it couldnt turn in the moulding profile, tightened them right up

the screws and nuts in early XJ and other Saloons are made of plastic, any attempt to turn the nuts result in instant self-destructruction

Well I removed the mouldings from the replacement lid and only manage to break 1 pin on each side, unfortunately they were both the outer most pins so most likely to be the most obvious if I was going to refit those. I did that with just a short spray of WD40. On the lid with the better mouldings I think I will give it more time to soak before taking them off. Might give Tony’s method a good go if I manage to break any on the better set.

Tony, how did you get the SS screws to stay in the mouldings groove? I’ve got two to replace each one on the outer end of a piece of moulding.

just to be sure we are talking about the same thing, the chrome trim is only ~1/4" wide externally

The (pan headed) screw must be a slip fit in the groove of the trim, it can slide along to align with the holes in the boot, it must be a fairly tight fit, and the ovalisation must only be slight enough to prevent it turning…or it will drop out

I took my trim to the specialist fastener supplier to make sure the parts I got fit
with a spring washer, one can tighten the trim to the exact level of firmness one wishes

had a look for pics, cant find them…also fitted all new fasteners to my grille, used anti-seize

Here’s a pic of one of my broken pins, I am not sure how the head of the screw will stay in. This moulding is quite heavy and is solid metal that looks to be chromed. I have salvaged the spring clips that go into the boot lid and am hoping that if I can fix the screws in place I may be able just push the screws in and it will hold just like the original pins. May never come out again though.

its hard to tell even from those pics, but the head of the screw has to be retained by the inner lip of the chrome…if there is no capability to do that, it wont work

does look like there is a lip ?, the screw head has to be a near perfect fit

I did come across this info, applicable to S1

Leaper studs/bolts are 3/16" BSW X 3/8" long

(I replaced the nuts&studs with Hex head SS 3/8" long bolts)

Centre strip had 2 different size studs

Radiator Grille size is #10-32 UNF fasteners for all, length and head type varies,

There doesn’t look like there is a lip there. This is on a S3, maybe something changed between models. I might investigate either epoxying the screws in or maybe drilling out the pin base and screwing into that. It’s not like there is a lot of stress on those pins, it looks like they are just holding the weight of the strip.
Thanks for your help Tony,

if there is no retaining lip, you may be able to shape the SS fastener head with an angle grinder to a good fit, then epoxy it into place, as you say, not much stress.

also had good success with “quicksteel” to hold things in place, I would try epoxy first

Ok thanks again, sounds like a plan,