Removing '67 S1 2+2 LH door hinge

Hey Guys,
With much trepidation from reading a bunch of the door alignment replies, am getting ready to remove the LH door to replace the hinge I’ve been prepping for the past month, or so.
I have a door cradle ready and have replace the door striker to the body. The old one was very well worn on top due to it’s many years of being abused by at the sagging door. BTW, was able to get the door to better align with the surface of the rear of the body. Previously, the door closed approximately 3-4mms inward of the body. Now, it’s more flush.
The question, which do I remove first, the door at the hinge or the hinge at the body? It seems detaching at the body is easier. Then with the door on bench, can easily gain access to all of the hinge attachment bolts. Any tips at this point are all welcome.

I always found that, removing the hinge from the body, then laying the door on a suitably padded surface, to remove the hinge from the door was the easiest way.

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Ok, that’s what I was thinking. I was planning to position the door in the cradle, then, remove the body bolts first. Thanks for your “slant” on this…

+1 on body …

I agree; leave the hinge on the door.

The 2+2 attachment to the body is from memory different from the short wheelbase cars. But I can’t actually remember how…:frowning: It might be just the courtesy light switch…

When adjusting the doors, the attachment between the door and the hinge allows you to adjust the tilt of the rear of the door up and down.

The attachment between the hinge and the body allows you to rotate the door on its long axis so you can adjust the fit of the bottom of the door to the body.

These are all good points. Thanks

before you loosen the bolts on the hinge, outline the hinge where it mounts to the frame, makes it easier to align the door when you reinstall it…

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Ok Guys, I’m back, several months later on the same topic, different question…
I have the door on my bench and am fitting the hinge to the door. The fasteners that were on the original hinge are machine head 5/16-24, however, my replacement hinge, as well as, the original both have oval had counter sinks for oval head 5/16-24 fasteners…Why factory drill for counter sink, then, install machine headed fasteners?
Also, note the two 1/4 - 20 drillings spaced apart on the hinge, these are for two round headed Phillips screws that fix the hinge to the door post plate, there is no “adjustability”. I’m thinking these were left over from the factory as a means of attaching the door temporarily before final adjustments to the body?
Anyone want to hazard a guess?

Hey Ken,
We never really know why Jaguar did something a particular way. I think of counter sunk screws/bolts as a way to minimize their projection above a surface but in the case of these, they still project and they are a long way from interfering with the upholstery that hides them. Another reason for countersinking i.e. beveling the hole, is to get more surface area, typically only an issue of thin materials. Rabbit hole warning: Google Cheery rivets, which are a wonderful product that does both!
Anyway, the OEM bolts are probably only available from the usuals. In this case, I personally wouldn’t have a problem going with regular hex head bolts and a washer. In this application, the position retention of the door vs the hinge is almost entirely due to friction from the clamping force.
As far as the little bolts, I agree they must have had some function in the eyes of the factory but I just leave them out. You can get a door shell nicely aligned but then you start adding glass and such and a new position if required. The small screws just get in the way of adjustments.
As an aside, below is a picture of mine for a 63 FHC. It is butt ugly but notice that I have removed material to allow direct access to the bolts with a socket and extension. A lifesaver when trying to wrangle doors solo.

Late to the show here but I seem to recall that on my 2+2 the hinge on the door was pinned?? Probably done during original installation but a good idea and if over the years that pin doesn’t work with door movement the once the door is realigned a new hole and pin is inserted in a new position.

Edit: I should have mentioned that the pin is useful when remounting said door.

Door removal……for me I found the easiest way was to wind down the window, loosen all bolts, standing up placing arm through window area and grasping the bottom of the door, remove all loose bolts and walk away with the assy.

Leaving the hinge on the car makes for an easier reinstallation because if the body end is removed then one has to go through door/hinge process to align with door to body level, which for me was a PITB.


Hey Guys,

I just noticed this, looking closer at the four door side ing bolts, you’ll notice they are conical and without washers. So, this explains these 4 particular bolts do serve a specific function.

Yes, those are the OEM bolts.

Hello All,
After a couple months of family life interruptions and a little of my own procrastination, I got back to installing the repainted LH used door hinge. Without the door cradle, it would have been a “bear” since I, usually, work alone. The cradle on a hydraulic jack allowed me to move it into a position that was nearly the same as when I removed it. I did outline the hinge on the door which was helpful. A fully loaded door is approximately 55 pounds. Since the door is so heavy (leverage wise) at the lock, I placed a 1/8 leather spacer on top of the striker and closed the door to nearly fully closed position. Then, with it resting on top of the spacer on the door lock jamb, I reached inside the open window loosened the door side hinge bolts and kinda “tweaked” it for a better fit, then tightened them (need to find the torque settings). Then, I remove the little spacer and the door closes nicely without “banging” and rubbing its way across the Jamb striker plate. Next, I noticed the bottom of the door was sticking outward away from the sill along its length. For this, I loosened the hinge to the body bolts just enough, I could twist the door into better position and it held this adjustment until I “gently” opened the door to expose the hinge bolts and I tightened them more.This door cradle was worth every penny I paid at HF.
The pillows help to keep the door upright in the cradle.
All and all, this door fits better now than it has in my 51years of ownership.