You need those two clips, otherwise the PTFE can unravel. The seals are sold separately, at least the were with every kit I’ve bought since the 90’s. I don’t think the clips are available, but things change.
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Bob, scrounge up some knee pads. You might be down there looking for a while 
In my previous photo the top line of parts, including the Teflon seals, (I found the second small ring) were shown. The bottom line of parts is what was included in the major SU rebuild kit, but there were no Teflon pieces to be rolled up. You can see the two silver sleeves, and the four rubber/plastic pieces. I’m not sure yet what the o-ring is for and it may be for another area of the carb.
My points are these:
- There are no Teflon pieces included in this kit
- It seems very strange to me that I would need to use these clips/rings from an old setup in a new rebuilt kit.
Given that this kit doesn’t include Teflon rings, are we sure that the rings need to be reused?
That bottom line is the new style 3.8 side seal and bushing kit. Bushings are in the center, the o-ring goes on the spindle first,then the plastic packing piece pushes in over it. These parts are garbage. They’re also completely irrelevant to a 4.2 carb set.
THOSE?
Those are “Jesus parts.”
Ugh…(and 20 characters)
The o-rings I was referring to are the fatties on the outside. I’m not sure what that ring in the center is. Maybe the one on the big “slow running” screw?
I’ve had good luck removing the brown tint using full-strength SimpleGreen and a brush…
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ok what is vapor honing?
well there is no place close to me that does that
Well used recycled glass beads in a blast cabinet won’t cause that erosion. Just degrease everything first and in the case of SUs, plug all the little holes with blobs of Tremclad strip calk before blasting and treat with ACF50 when cleaned off and finished.
rick
I thought the same thing ref Co Springs 2 years ago
I even considered buying my own rig – I wa$ $oon disabu$ed of that con$ideration.
But the sales rep put me in contact with a guy who had purchased a rig in my town.
I was looking at
Christi Jones
Inside Sales Representative
313A Motz Ave.
Lincolnton NC 28092
Reach out to the major manufacturers – maybe they can hook you up.
One point that was glossed over in the video: vapor blasting will not remove heavy grime; the water softens the blast effects. In all my examples, the part needed to be media blasted (remove paint, powder coating, grease, rust, etc) before the vapor blasting gets the satin-y finish.
Craig
a Vapor Blaster believer
PS-- I hadn’t watched the video before posting the above note.
2 Likes
I have a bead blast cabinet. Haven’t tried recycled beads. Are they available “new?” I think I’ve seen broken glass or some similar designation. Walnut shells? I did some carbies and found them a little rough with glass beads (not my HD8s).
The vapor honing machine (water plus abrasive) is about $3K…well above my budget.
BTW I’ve been blasting a lot lately, mostly in a cabinet with aluminum oxide, but also using my pressure blaster outdoors. Ran out of sand, used some aluminum oxide. Went to buy more sand and I noticed it’s illegal for blasting. Probably a good idea. You can cheat and buy swimming pool filter sand, but I think I’ll avoid the silicosis issue.
I guess one has to “make” one’s own to end up with worn beads. There may well be better media available but that is what was available to me. I know that new glass beads are probably too abrasive.
To do all my carb work and other items, I used a heavy duty blast cabinet belonging to some friends who restore vintage aircraft and it was used by them solely for cleaning up aluminum parts.
It is my understanding that the PTFE seals are no longer supplied by SU because they’re less than optimal. The new major kits include rubber seals that are superior. When I rebuilt my carbs a couple of years back I sent the throttle bodies out for rebushing and fitting the new throttle spindles and seals - accurately drilling the holes in the spindles for the throttle stops can be tricky.
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Given the condition of the carbs, I have chosen to send them out for rebuilding. I have also sent along all the parts I received as part of the major rebuild kit that I purchased/assembled. The rebuilder fashions his own bushing out of Delrin and fits them after boring the body as necessary. I’ll report back after getting the carbs back from him and fitting them to the car.
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Salvete Amatores Catorum Velocium,
I’m installing my rebuilt triple-SU’s on my 3.8 OTS. My insulator blocks seem iffy. Maybe they are OK, but Lord knows how old they are and they seem to be of a fiberboard material with gaskets permanently affixed to them each side. Then there were two more gaskets that fell apart when I removed the blocks. (see pics)
I was then going to replace just the six “outer” gaskets, but essentially my new gaskets would then be up against the old permanent gaskets on the old blocks. So, I figured replace the blocks as well. Well…easier said than done…
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Do I need to replace my current fiberboard blocks with the permanent gaskets? (I would put the new gaskets against the carbs and manifold.) This is how the car came to me. But it seems like I’m using old gaskets this way…
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Should I replace the blocks with the fibreboard ones? Note how my blocks have “attached gaskets” and they aren’t in the best of shape…
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Should I get plastic blocks? I’ve gotten two opinions, one said the plastic insulated against heat and the other said the fibreboard insulated heat better.
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What thickness do I want? 1/4" roughly? My current ones are 5/16" (including the "permanent gaskets.)
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Of the available gaskets I have, is one set of better quality?
All i care about is not introducing a new problem into the system once I have everything back together (i.e. post-carb air leakage)…
Many thanks…
Andrew
https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#/US/parts/b1b006e6-f57a-4bf6-8d1f-f3e8dda8b039
https://www.terrysjag.com/SRCH.html?Search=c33059
