I can’t get all the head bolts out with the double nut technique. Any other suggestions? How much heat can I safely apply to the block/studs without creating more damage. This is an S1, by the way, so these studs are not the mile long ones that go through the water jacket and get severely corroded just plain studs that screw into the surface of the block.
John North
1967 S1 Roadster
I can only speak for my S2 long bolt block testimony. I never used heat. I applied a mixture of the usual penetrating oils (Kroil mainly), but I had to remove the plugs to get to the bottom of the studs. (to reach the bottom of my studs I removed the side plugs too)
I had three stubborn ones that time and an impact wrench on the double nuts applied at the lightest setting, and only for short bursts, finally succeeded. Specifically, bursts less than two seconds, then more penetrating oil, then sitting for a day… repeat! Eventually got them all out after 7 days.
If they are going to be replaced, try using a vice grip down close to the block to add some turning force after using lots of penetrating oils. Great I idea to spray to bottom of the studs through the water passages too.
Penetrating oil, and heat to the stud, not the block. Probably best to heat and then let cool before wrenching it. If nuts can’t handle it, I’d try a pipe wrench. If that won’t do it, the next step is probably to weld a nut solidly to the top so you can get a socket on it with a T wrench. Work it both ways, not just out.
I used lots of PB Blaster, letting ir work it’s way down to the threads. I had a few that were very stubborn and I had concerns about them breaking off; who knows how corroded they were. I tried fairly aggressive tapping on the top of those studs with a hammer think that might help break up any corrosion at the threads and allow the Blaster to work it’s way down. That coupled with vise grip persuasion did the job.
Once it starts moving apply lots more lubricant and work the stud back and forth a bit to spread it and kind of break up the corrosion.
I agree with heating the studs, apply some penetrating oil when its hot and let it cool. Hopefully the contraction will suck in some of the oil. There’s a stud extractor tool you can get, got mine at sears that grips the stud harder the more torque you apply. You can break off the stud with that thing, Harbor Freight might have a cheap one if your double nut doesn’t do the job. I prefer the heat, lube and wait method and John mentioned using a hammer, can’t hurt.
pauls
In all but the very worst, that is what I used.
Hi, try using heat, lubricant rust remover and a STUD removing tool.
Regards,
Allen
This is what you need. Give the top of the stud a couple of sharp hits with a hammer too.
To get the head studs out of my 70 E-Type, I used some WD-40 soaking for a couple of weeks followed by a pipe wrench with a 2 ft extension pipe to crack the studs loose. It ws a bit nerve-racking but did the trick. The threads on the studs look OK but I will install new ones to be sure.
My machine shop uses a Snap On tool, “Stud remover set CG500”. There’s a set on eBay for sale presently. Not cheap! Thankfully they let me borrow a tool from the set over the weekend.
Andy S2