Does anybody have experience if just undoing intake manifold from the engine head would be enough to be able to remove oil pressure sender? Or does oil filter removal provide wrench access? Sender on my car is an original-style, proportional one, and with everything in place, the wrench just wont fit from any direction. I know some people fashioned bent wrench, but I’m not sure I can do that.
It is surprising how bad these senders are (mine third in 12 years). On $80k car someone put press-fit canister over gauge for hot pressurized oil!!! The common failure mode seem to always include press-fit join fail and oil leak through it, and therefore (intermittent) low oil pressure read, as engine vibrates. Would anyone know of a table/chart of oil pressure vs resistance for this sender?
I simply got tired of replacing my “original style” oil pressure transmitter and replaced it with the “idiot light” style, and I’m glad I did. The AJ6 engine has no history of oil pressure problems so I’ve felt totally comfortable with this modification.
Motorcarman’s wrench is VERY slick, I love this type of ingenuity. In the past I’ve used a crowsfoot wrench on this job with good success. But if I have to do this again I’m making a “Motorcarman Wrench” !!
Yet another reason to count my blessings! I have owned my '94 for 19 years and replaced the sender once - with an original-style (albeit NOT OEM) sender. Just had to add a resistor to tweak the needle on the gauge but it has been working fine for a number of years.
Me too, replaced once, non OEM plus resistor also. On the '94 we removed the oil cooler bypass to get at it. Apparently the small hole in the sensor just gets plugged up and can sometimes be cleaned to return it to functionality.
I copied Motorcarman’s adapted wrenches, I needed two because the replacement that comes with the resistor is a different size A/F to the original. My two are not as beautiful as Motorcarman’s and only took ten minutes to make but they were only for a 'one time ’ use…hopefully. I just cut the ends I needed from two spanners and tacked them to two 1/2" drive socket extension bars. It took less than 15 minutes to change the sender using them, and I didn’t have to remove anything else from the engine.
I wouldn’t go back to the original type of sender even if it was readily available, I hated seeing the oil pressure fall almost to zero when sitting at lights after a run, even though I knew it was only the sender at fault it still made me feel uncomfortable.
