Removing rear shock absorbers

I seem to recall some way back about comments that suggested/reminded us to install the rear shocks such that the top bolts had the nuts on the outside of the cage. Is this correct?

Reason for asking is that I seem to have a very slight weep at the union where I replaced the old bleed nipples with the extensions that locate of the lower front of the cage, and, I need to remove the front shock to get at said union. However, I find it almost impossible to get a wrench of any kind on the top nut as there is just not enough room between the cage and the tub to get a hand in there, and even if I somehow managed it, lord knows how I’d get a hand back in there to replace the nut.

So, I’m thinking that perhaps I misread the suggestions about which way around to have the nut/bolt combo for the top fixing. As mentioned, the bolt is on the inside.

Thoughts please.

Les,

Sorry, I gave input there, but I understand that the 2+2 has a different setup back there. Plus, I can’t remember what worked, though I have taken the rear shocks of my FHC many times. Not fun.

Jerry

Hi Les…on a 2+2 as all others the bolt goes from the inside of the irs and nut on the outside…a long spanner or a spanner taped into a piece of meta pipe or channel and slide it up between the irs and body…then undo from inside…to replace…tape the nut lightly to the spanner…push it up into place and bolt in…it can be done, more awkward if cars on the ground but quite easy if on a lift…all the best, Steve

I think Steve’s suggestion makes sense. I have anS2 2+2. I wonder if access via the brake pad access panel, behind the rear seat, may also be feasible? The access is probably no better than from below, and it’s just a thought.

Thanks Steve. I do have it on a lift and it’s still a nightmare! I guess
I’ll have to fabricate something as you suggest but am certainly not
looking forward to it.

If anyone else has suggestions, I’m all ears…:slight_smile:

Hi Les…done it on my S2 and a S3…probably more difficult thinking about it than actually doing it…it dont take much fabrication ive used a piece of unistrut (u shape channel) with a spanner held in with masking tape…all the best… Steve

Thanks Liam, oddly enough I was just thinking the same thing. Give it a
shot tomorrow, perhaps I should read the manual first also, to see what
wonderful suggestions Jaguar had for doing this…:slight_smile:

“… perhaps I should read the manual first also, to see what
wonderful suggestions Jaguar had for doing this.” …:slight_smile:

“Step one: refer to the section detailing removal of the car from the IRS assembly …”

I did it on my 2+2 without fabricating anything special, but then again back then I had Olive Oil arms.

Dont think reading the 6cyl manual will help…it dosnt make exeptions for a 2+2 that has less room between the irs and the bodywork than other models… however the S3(same shape underneath says can be removed in situe… Steve

Well some good news. For the 2+2 folks out there, if you remove the rear seat and then remove the access covers, not only can you get to the handbrake stuff but you can also just about get a wrench to the hydraulic connections, which I was able to get about at 1/10th turn on, hopefully that will be enough, but even better, you can also get a socket onto the front shock upper mount nut and spin it off/on in secs, no special tools required! So if more action is required on the hydraulics, at least I can remove the shock without hassle.

Will try the bleed tomorrow when I have help, hoping for the best!

If the helpmate dislikes brake bleeding, and I’ve not heard of one who doesn’t, you can bleed the rears yourself if you use a broomstick to push on the brake pedal while you manipulate the bleeding nipples.

Now that is a claim that deserves a photo to go with it.

That’s a neat trick, from under the car John!

IIRC, I removed the rear seat back and the brake access panels and bled the 2+2 rear brakes from inside the car. Did I make an error in assuming Series 1-1.2 cars have the same access panels?

They certainly do John, however in my case I have the EZbleed extensions which require one to operate the bleeding process from under the car. Easier than having to remove the seat, panels, then fool around with fluid , jars and broom handles.

I never doubted you, just thought a photo of you doing the broomstick trick would be worth seeing.

Not a problem.

If I even think of bleeding the brakes The Boss suddenly is nowhere to be found; she hates participating in this chore. So, necessity is the mother of invention. :laughing:

Thank goodness for my vacuum bleeder that I bought 15 years ago. It worked great on all 4 corners of the E-Type brakes and the clutch like it has on all my cars. No more needing a helper.

I’ve got one of those and I do use it. The only problem I’ve noted with it is that it tends to want to suck air from around the bleeder screw threads along with the brake fluid through the bleeder screw. That makes it difficult to tell if I’m getting any air bubbles from the system itself. So, I still enlist an assistant to give the brake pedal a couple of pushes as a final step in bleeding.

All this reminds me that I’ve got three vehicles to flush the brake fluid in this coming week. The fun just never stops. :sweat_smile: