My disassembly for restoration is going pretty well, other than not having enough time to do it. Once in a while I run into something where the ROM says to simply “withdraw” something which seems close to impossible to “withdraw”, even with all prudent force applied. I can almost see the writer laughing as those words were written.
Current case in point, the bolts (set screws in Brit-speak) holding the upper wishbone fulcrum brackets to the frame. The nuts are off with no problem but the bolt heads are almost impossible to access with conventional weapons and refuse to budge. I presume the bolts are threaded onto more than just the nut? The suspension fasteners have generally been reluctant to come free but have surrendered up to this point. The complexity on these is that the bracket is designed such that you cannot even get a socket or closed end wrench on the bolt heads.
I realize this is a trivial issue in the whole scheme of things, but words of wisdom will be appreciated. If you just tell me that they are not threaded to anything and that beating them out with a hammer won’t break something I will be happy.
They may very well be just rusted in the holes, but in case they were threaded into the frame or a structure inside the frame I did not want to force the issue until I know for sure. I go through lots of PB Blaster, acetone/ATF mix and WD-40.
I found and cropped a coupla photos that hopefully makes clear the mount technique for the front suspension.
The perspective of this first photo is from the inside face of the passenger side suspension mounting points. As you can see and as you suspected, the 4x Upper Bracket Mounting points are secured with a washer and nut on a through bolt. I think the original set up used a loknut.
I also labeled the Lower mounting points. The topmost bolts for the lower mounts are just like the Uppers - a through bolt secured with washer/loknut. The bolts are NOT threaded to anything else.
The bottom-most bolts for the lower mounts are not visible here - check out the next photo. The holes for these bolts are not visible cuz they are not through bolts
The perspective of the second photo is from the outside face of the passenger side suspension mounting points. As you can see, I labeled the Upper Bracket Mounting points with a simple U, just as on the first photo.
I also labeled the Lower mounting points. The topmost bolts for the lower mounts are just like the Uppers - a through bolt secured with washer/loknut. They are labeled L-TB = Lower-Through Bolt.
The bottom-most bolts for the lower mounts are now visible. The holes for these bolts are threaded holes not visible in the above photo. They are labeled Lower-Threaded Hole
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That was the easy part - hardware and holes. Bolt A goes into Hole A. But, you asked . . .
As we have seen the nuts are the only thing securing the bolts and brackets to the frame.
CAVEAT: I am not a mechanic but am currently reattaching my suspension. (*)
What I think is causing your frustration is that the suspension itself is applying tension on the mounting brackets and their bolts. My next step would be to slacken the large loknuts (7/8"?) on either end of the upper fulcrum shaft. To do this you may need to remove valences in the wheel well. If I am correct, the progressive loosening/slackening of the end nuts will relieve pressure that is being applied to the upper wishbone fulcrum brackets.
HEADS UP - pay very very close attention to the sizes, sequence, and orientation of the washers and spacers on both ends of the fulcrum shaft. There are washers and spacers on all sides of both upper wishbone fulcrum brackets - but not always. same applies to the lower suspension.
Take photos. Make notes. Then take more photos. My notes say “thin washer” and “thick spacer”. Not good enough. Have your micrometer at hand so your notes reflect ID, OD and thickness. There are hat washers in the mix, too.
HEADS UP - if you end up removing the horseshoe frame, pay very very close attention to the orientation/alignment of the mounting holes. It will fit on the side frames if bolted on backwards but the wishbone fulcrum brackets will NOT align with their mounting holes. No need to ask why I make this comment.
(*) as I was attaching my upper suspension today - the last hole was a mismatch to the last bolt by half the diameter of the bolt. I tightened the forward loknut and was able to watch the gradual alignment of the hole/bolt. The last few twists on the fulcrum shaft nut took some grunt – which is why I offered the above way-ahead.
“What I think is causing your frustration is that the suspension itself is applying tension on the mounting brackets and their bolts. My next step would be to slacken the large loknuts (7/8”?) on either end of the upper fulcrum shaft. To do this you may need to remove valences in the wheel well. If I am correct, the progressive loosening/slackening of the end nuts will relieve pressure that is being applied to the upper wishbone fulcrum brackets."
Great thinking. It is kind of embarrassing to have to consult the expert panel on how to remove these, but my exploratory less than full force banging on them was not visibly having any effect. I did not consider that the lateral force of the fulcrum tension was binding them. Everything other than the wishbones and torsion bar is already removed so there is nothing in the way of loosening the locknuts on the fulcrum ends. I will do so and keep track of the spacer locations. Will also report back if (when) this solves the problem tomorrow.
As usual, the most disturbing part of your photos to me is that you coated your floor white and it still looks like you could use your shop as a surgical suite. To use a couple of cultural references that may register with the older crowd here, that makes you the Felix to my Oscar (Odd Couple), and your photos are labeled like the “crime scene” photos in the Arlo Guthrie song (Alice’s Restaurant). But I admire both your cleanliness and attention to detail. Thanks for your detailed and helpful response.
Reporting back - Well, it was just good old fashioned corrosion lock between the bolts and the sleeves inside the frame. All are liberated except one, that I broke 2 quality 9/16 sockets on using a breaker bar, even after dosing it with every penetrating substance I know of. Very strange, because in general there is not that much rust on the suspension parts and I have parted out cars that had been laying in the woods for 30 years that were easier than that. I don’t want to break the bolt off so will soak it a few times and then try the heat treatment.
I assume you know this but just to check the block - sometimes you can be successful breaking loose corrosive adhesion but tightening the fastener. Work your breaker bar to tighten and loosen the offending bolt. Afterall - you are NOT fighting corrosion in the threads. Just good, old-fashioned rust.
Today was a typical day disassembling a 50-year old Jaguar and trying not to break anything. Worked pretty hard and not as much to show for it as I would like. But the upper wishbone on the other side came off in about 10 minutes and I moved on to other things while the uncooperative bolt soaks and hopefully gets an attitude adjustment overnight. Once the IRS is off there will not be too much left.
We need photos of your progress.
Don’t think of them as stroking your own ego – you’d be surprised how many times a J-L’er has warned me of an issue I wasn’t even looking at. I was looking at a specific tree-- they spotted the sickly tree in the grove.
Thank you for that. A good friend is a career metalworker/machinist who knows all the tricks, and I will enlist his assistance before doing something I will regret.
