Hi, I have a 1962 MK2, 3.8 auto. It was DG but is now a ZF4HP22 4 speed. I stuck with the original 2 piece drive shaft but its not all that successful. Looking at the specs, the length for a stock 2 piece auto drive shaft is 10 1/2 inches plus 27 1/8 inches, which is 37 5/8 inches for a 3.8. The single shaft for a stock 4 speed is 37 5/8 inches for a 2.4, and 36 7/8 inches for a 3.8…
so, from this, I assume the longer single shaft should clear the floor when the diff travels and is probably OK for the 3.8…
Is there any reason to not replace a 2 piece with a single shaft?
Nope. My Mk2 3.4 had a DG250 and I swapped it out for a 4 speed O/D. The two piece prop shaft went in favour of a single piece. It was made up by Hardy Spicer on Sydney. Similar but longer than the E type setup.
My 240 was Auto , one piece prop , replaced that with 4 speed synchro with o/d , one piece prop , both prop’s are Jaguar , diffrent length’s .
XJ6 3.4 Engine , light weight Factory E-type flywheel , 4 speed o/d Synchro gearbox , L.S.D out of a 3.8 Auto 3.54:1 , all bolts up like it was made for each other
I’ve got a 1 piece in my MK2 with the Supra box. Works fine.
As Paul says Hardy Spicer will make you one to order. It’s also worth checking how much SNG Barratts etc want for one. Even with current extortionate freight prices they might come in cheaper.
I fitted a Moss 4 speed o\d box to my auto Mk1 50 years ago; as I recall, I just had an engineering shop make up a single length shaft by mating the short and long shaft together. No big deal nor expense.
Yep… thats the big question… but given so many configs use a one piece and the diff pinion angle remains the same for all of these, I assume that the angle of the crankshaft, and therefor the relative position of the gearbox (whichever one is in use) must be the same for any prop shaft to work… so if a single shaft clears the body for ANY configuration that meets the phasing rules (ie pinion angle equals crankshaft angle), then it should clear on ALL configurations unless the length of the gearbox is dramatically shorter… Thats why I looked at the specs to see relative lengths… My guess is that it will clear… we will see. Thanks
Thanks Andrew… I have a local man who makes them too so no issues there… I have a supra in my etype. Supra box, from memory is longer than the auto (I will check that!)… if it is longer then there is a chance it may foul at the front… will see. cheers… PS… hope to get to Adelaide one day and say Hi!
so, have ordered it. It is 1.335m ( a little over 52 1/2 inches ) long so well within 3 inch tube limits. Now I have to sort out the pion angle. <y gearbox is 2.7 degrees down…about right…but the diff is 2.3 down… needs to be 2.7 up so I plan to make adjustable upper control arms to sort this. Anyone have a better idea? cheers
To obtain these angles, did you mount a magnetic protractor/angle locator on the transmission and pinion flanges and measure from vertical?
My MK2 is equipped with a Borg Warner DG250 transmission and it has an after market, one-piece drive shaft installed (It has no clearance issues BTW). Following the installation of new rear springs, my car now experiences a minor vibration between ~37-43 MPH. The rear springs elevated the rear of the car and subsequently changed the flange angles. I’d like to measure these angles to see how dissimilar they are. I suspect that the new springs disrupted the angles and may be responsible for the introducing the aforementioned vibration. The car is smooth as silk before and after this speed range.
Hi Morro, as a little side issue,
I’m just curious re your auto trans. Is yours the Hydraulic or Electronic version & did the bell housing bolt straight up to the 3.8L motor?
I assume you needed a mating flywheel & starter motor.
Did it require cooler tubes to run through the radiator?
How easy was it to fit linkages to the existing setup?
My DG box is giving me a few issues of late.
Hope you can sort your prop shaft issue out,
regards
Pierre
I went to my all purpose local drive shaft company to have mine changed for a yoke at the dif. end. When I picked it up I found they made up a whole new unit. Cost was under $300 about two years ago. S.C., usa.
Hi Brian,
I measured mine and they were WAY out. So I made adjustable torque arms to get them where they should be. However, speaking to folk who race these, they dont seem to worry about it. They just put up with it… strange…
