I have a Series 2 E Type, OTS, who’s driver’s door won’t open (inside lever works fine). I assume I’ll need to replace the door lock assembly My big repair manual isn’t real clear, so can anyone walk me through the step by step replacement? Is it a pain to do? Or, should I call it a day and call in the cavalry? Thanks!
Remove the door card so you can access the mechanism and determine the cause. You’ll also see how the assembly is secured and how to remove it.
Fairly simple set up.
Raise the window glass first. As noted, you need to remove the door card. I’ve done it a lot so it comes easy to me but if you have never done it before, there are some tricks. I would start by Googling “how do i remove the door card on an etype”. But big picture, there are the two handles, typically held by split pins inserted perpendicular to the shaft of the handle, the arm rest, held by screws, and the 3 sides of the perimeter of the door card, held by clips that are popped out by a lever action between the back of the door card and the metal surface of the door.
Once the door card is removed, there may or may not be plastic to remove. You can get away with cutting out a section near the latch.
I would do all of the above on both sides and compare the 2. You have to decide if the problem is with the handle or with the internal mechanism. Both are expensive so it will pay to study the good side and see what the bad side is not doing. I’m not experienced with S2 latches so I won’t try and guess what you might find.
You say the inside handle is working. To me, that would point to the exterior handle, not the internal mechanism. It is not the best place from an access standpoint but at least you can sit on a low stool and study it with a light. One thing I would rule out is to use your key to lock the door on both sides. Make sure both sides have the same movement. On the S1 2+2, there is a separate lever for the locking action that can become disconnected, so if you get lucky, you have a failure in this regard and can simply reattach it. Let’s hope.
If this is anything like my S1.5, and I think it is then the outside door lock is simply a plunger that engages with the inside mechanism. If you remove the door card and peer inside while operating the plunger, you’ll very likely see the problem. Sounds like something is just stuck.
On a S2 there are no pins, the crank and the handle are both secured with screws ( much easier).
The two chome pieces are removed by sliding them to one side and releasing them from the clips or button head rivets one by one.
There will be at least one screw under them, maybe more.
The lock mechanism has a pot metal barrel that can break apart. Good news is that replacements are available and inexpensive.
Yes, the jamb nut on the plunger can loosen resulting in a change in its travel
Here is the part (retainer) that broke on mine (not my photos):
That screw extending out is the adjustment. Adjusted too short or too loose and nothing happens when you press the outside button.
Ah did you fix this yet my car has same problem part……just stopped working …didyoufigure out how to adjust the “pin” movement
The screw is the adjustment but if the handle suddenly stopped working it is more likely that something broke… such as that pot metal barrel.
Yeah I’ve changed the barrels and it works ( I had an old one) but still not locking …. One step at a time
Given the age of these beasts, lubrication sometimes can play a role. My 69s RH door hinge grew increasingly stiff. WD 40 didnt do anything. A forum member suggested PB blaster. A couple of shots over two days cured it. The door never swung as well as it does now. Let us know what you find!