Replacing drive shaft u-joints on '68 E

Have to replace the drive shaft u-joints and have read many comments on this and other forums that the drive shaft cannot be removed without first removing either the engine or IRS. However a mechanic that I have used on several other occasions, believes that he can extract the drive shaft by removing the u-joint bolts at the back end , then remove a cover plate under the drive shaft at the front end , remove the u-joint bolts there and then extract the drive shaft by pulling it out towards the engine. We know there’s a x-member below the drive shaft at the front end but I don’t know if the drive shaft can be tilted at the back end enough to clear the x-member and the engine. It looks rather doubtful to me, However, the mechanic has many years of experience ,has worked on almost all makes and thinks it’s do able but I don’t want him to spend a significant amount of time on it only to find that his plan will not work. Has anyone tried this method of removing the drive shaft to replace the u-joints?
Thanks in advance for any help you can offer!
Don

Me too. But if he attempts this and especially if he succeeds – pictures are in order and I’d be in favor of naming the maneuver after him.

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Take pictures. Get back to us.

Put me down as doubtful.

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Hi Don.
I very much doubt it’s possible.
Dropping the IRS isn’t difficult and you could use this as an opportunity to inspect and replace handbrake pads etc while it’s out.

Cheers

AB

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Having just done this about 18 months ago, I will go on record predicting complete, abject failure. The tunnel itself provides nowhere near enough clearance for the driveshaft to be tilted as much as necessary to extract it either through the front or back without removing the gearbox or IRS.

You WILL have to remove the IRS.

Regards,
Ray L.

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Now, if you had fitted that telescopic drive shaft that I told you to, it would have been easy. Some people just won’t listen…:smiling_imp:

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On a series 1 ots I changed the rear u joint in the car, and an S2 Ots I changed the front u joint in the car.
Tom

If he thinks he can but can’t then he should NOT charge you for that labor time!

Oooooh. . . be very careful. . .

I agree . I know him very,very well but told him that everything I have read about the problem requires that either the IRS or the engine has to come out . He said he has replaced the u-joints before on an XKE and he will not remove the IRS to do it. He estimates that it will take him about 3-4 hours… about the same time to remove the IRS.
I hope to have the problem fixed in the next few days so will let you know the outcome.
Thanks !
Don

Get ready to call it the “Larry Rogerson, driveshaft u-joint replacement procedure”

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Don,
I jacked up the rear so I could turn the drive shaft, I removed the console and transmission cover. The four bolts are easily reached to unbolt the drive shaft from the transmission flange. I removed the snap rings and used a blunt cold chisel to tap (read pound) the u-joint cross each direction (with a medium to small hammer) to push the caps out. If I remember, I started hammering while the flange was still bolted up, then decided it may not be best to hammer against the transmission bearing, so I then unbolted the flange and supported under the driveshaft with a block of wood to continue. Mine was not overly tight and moved out fairly easily. I know some can be quite tight, and should be soaked for awhile. Once the caps were removed, the u-joint and flange came out easily. I then removed the U-joint from the flange and installed the new u-joint. When reinstalling the new u-joint and flange, I remember I had to maneuver it quite a bit and turned the drive shaft to find the right spot to get it to fit back in. I then installed the new caps, etc., and bolted it up. There was nothing overly difficult about it. I would definitely do it that way again. However, if the u-joint were exceptionally tight, maybe a press would be needed. If you are adverse to hammering it out and want to use a press, take out the IRS. Since, to remove the IRS and drive shaft, you must unbolt the front flange anyway, why not start that way. If you can get the u-joint out, great, if not, continue with the IRS removal. All I can say for sure is that it did work for me. I spent a few hours, but I was in no hurry.
Good luck, Tom

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Thanks Tom, much appreciated!
Don

Yeh I remember doing the front u joint in situ in 1974 in my ‘68 ots in my ex father in laws’ driveway. Wouldn’t do it again, but then I’ve never developed any skill whatsoever at changing them out of the car either. A job for the competent.

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I agree , wouldn’t even attempt it if I had a hoist!
Thanks,
Don

Sometimes all a hoist does is help drain the blood out of your hands faster.

I’d probably just drop the IRS. The way my luck goes, I’d take long enough to change the front out that I’d only be 15 minutes faster than dropping the IRS, only to find that I couldn’t get the rear UJ out without a press.

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He will get nowhere with this crown without pictures.
Please document so we can all learn.
Cheers … Ole

Tom,
if I read your post correctly, what you did was replacing the UJ’s with the drive shaft in place. I have done the rear that way, still not the front.
Don’s mechanic’s claim is to extract the drive shaft with engine/gearbox and IRS in place. We’re all dying to see that.
Cheers … Ole

It NEVER occurred to me, to even try it in situ.

With relatively decent equipment, dropping the IRS is no big woop.

He didn’t say he would extract the driveshaft .Just said he would change the u-js in situ. i know the rear joint is doable but I don’t know about the front. Will know tomorrow if it can be done …if it doesn’t rain.

Don