Replacing fuel pump in XJ8

I committed the cardinal sin of butchering my rear parcel shelf to access the fuel pump due to the well known failure as a result of low fuel level. Without a lift I do not believe the tank removal is viable on the ground. As the car will be scrapped (given away) if I cannot get it running again cutting the rear shelf is a small price to pay. I found limited information on this option so it was a lot of trail and error but using my new Multi tool metal cutter and a drill attached Nibbler the panel was cut away to give access to the fuel tank.
The Nibbler is brilliant but due to the restricted space under the rear screen and the undulations in the metal work the nibbler could not do the job alone. I decided to remove the panel I had cut rather than lever up a flap as has been shown on other sites. My thinking is it will be easier to fashion a flange to replace the panel in the workshop giving a good seal.
Once the panel is cut away the vent pipe needs to be released by removing the pipe clips and then using a screwdriver to push off the short rubber pipe while twisting with pliers. Then using a brass drift the locking ring is released.
The fuel pump can then be removed after undoing the single bolt inside the tank and releasing the fuel pipe.
Once I get the correct replacement pump it should be easy to reinstall and button up safely the parcel shelf.
The worst job will be reinstalling the rear seat and panelling.

Apologies if I offended anyone but this job is is simple DIY with care.
I also notice the front lower OS wing rear quarter is rotten even though I have maintained spotless wheel arches. The mud trap behind the wheel arch covers are again the problem but I have not removed them for this vital preventive maintenance in time. I hope repair panels are available rather than a new wing.

New fuel pump purchased from a Jag supplier. It does not fit out of the box! I have to somehow connect the bare cable ends to the existing power connector so I can reconnect to the Evap flange.
I tried to open the old crimps to no avail.
I can cut the cables and reconnect via shrink crimp connectors with shrink wrap over the top thus using the old connector. Or find the correct spade connector to match the Jaguar socket.
Then you have to bend open the pump support bracket to reinstall the pump. This is not difficult but fitting the new filter spring grip washer is a two man job. The bracket is then bent back into shape while you fit the rubber insert.
Now I am in trouble as I had removed the spade connectors from the plug without marking positive / negative! Doh… HELP. Which way round do the cables go into the Evap flange plug connector? Anyone know please?

OK I have traced the cables back and if the black wire in the boot loom connector is earth/negative then I have resolved this. The other stripey wire is unlikely to be the earth?? Or I will be filling the tank from the engine.

I hate threads left hanging so for anyone interested I will finish this story.
The fuel pump was replaced (from inside the car). It is essential to check the fuel pipe is very tight on the pump as the pressure can blow it off and fitting the pipe clamp is quite difficult. Also the pump needs to be clear of the tank metalwork or it will make a racket. Sounds obvious but it needs checking carefully. You can adjust the position by slackening the mounting bolt and twisting the pump round and re tighten. It is really difficult as you can’t easily get two hands into the tank. You can only test after resealing the evap flange so good to get it right first time if you can.
I can now make a flange from roofing zinc and reseal the cut out plate into position with rivets and sealant. It can easily be drilled out if required. Pump is now running fine and only one gash to hand on the jagged metal.
I would like to thank Berkshire Jag Components for their excellent sales and after sales service as they went the extra mile.

Steve,
Great to hear that you’ve brought her back from the dead! Happy motoring.

Well he didn’t replace the pump actually in this video! Without disconnecting the fuel lines underneath I suggest these are now kinked or worse.

This vid wasn’t actually the one I wanted to link to, but I couldn’t find the “good one” in a hurry. Sounds kinda shifty this character, but I just wanted to point out that it is fully possible to wiggle the tank out and get to the pump rather than butchering the rear shelf…

Bard

Now now girls it’ll be handbags at dawn if we are not careful!

It has been quiet on the confrontation front recently with the lack of Jack, Gary, Ross, Darren and a few others posting any views. Come back soon.

Please.

No chance I am too old for that. I hope my posts are informative to anyone coming along and doing the same job. I researched a lot before deciding how to tackle this and there is not a lot of info or guidance. Stories of bent, kinked or broken fuel lines when forcing the tank backwards ensured I did not take this option as you cannot see what damage is done and fixing it is going to be very expensive when the fuel starts leaking out. Without a lift you cannot attempt to remove the fuel lines realistically so cutting a neat hole in the parcel shelf which is unseen was my best option. It also allows access to the tank easily anytime you need to. I blame the Jaguar designer who thought it was a good idea to have the pump inside the tank without any means of access. As we now know you must keep the pump submerged to stop it burning out so you must have 3 gallons in the tank minimum. If they had turned the pump through 90 degrees it would not be a problem although a pump can still fail. They didn’t do this so we have this well documented problem but not many documented solutions.
As I have to re seat the pump to stop it vibrating I am delighted I have easy access. Once it is sealed up correctly it cannot be seen thus does not harm the car at all.
It is one option if you are at home on the driveway.
Now I need to fix the electrical problem which caused all this in the first place. Alternator is coming off next which I think is keyhole surgery.

Not trying to raise controversy here but, possibly a big BUT, if the set up is the same as the XJ40 with the fuel lines I can say that it is possible to R&R the fuel tank without the use of a hoist. It isn’t an easy job and if you are short in the arms and have dinner plate hands I have two words, forget it!
It is a fiddle but if you can get your arm through the handbrake cable, prop shaft, suspension cage you have a chance of reaching the clips to twist them to release. The next problem you are faced with is getting sufficient purchase to pull the lines out. Enjoy:)