Replacing rusted out steel fuel line


One continuous pipe now. Not perfect and the kunifer did not like some of the right compound bends - but I think it will do the job.

All I need to do now is practice some flares before I do this piece, and get the appropriate fitting to make the join into the engine bay.

To avoid confusion… does a ‘compression fitting’ refer specifically to use of an olive fitting (versus a flare fitting)… or are they both types of compression fitting (as the seal with the flare is made by compression)…?

For ‘Compression fitting’ I would read that as an olive rather than a flare.

Hi Adrian…the internal mating surfaces are very different between fittings needing olives and those needing flares…so a “compression” fitting needs an olive…Steve

This fitting is driving me crazy.

It occurred to me to try and use the soldered fitting I have (traversing the inner wing and feeding the fuel filter pipe).

It came off, I ground out the old solder with a drill bit till it was clean and would snugly accept the new kunifer.

My soldering is pants but it seemed tight. Then stupidly I forgot to hold steady it in the wing with a spanner, whilst tightening on the nut in the bay, and as it began to torque up it sheared my solder of course :face_with_symbols_over_mouth:.

I tried to clean and re-solder but the fitting is now mashed up (it is too lose having cleaned out the inside again) and I don’t trust it.

So close…

I now have a dilemma because I cannot find that part anywhere (I shall ask Automec tomorrow as Steve H originally suggested).

If I can’t get a replacement I can use a flare fitting, but unless I can find a fitting that is the right size and thread to accept the nut in the bay the my problems continue on that side now!

The old fitting certainly accepts a 3/8” pipe… and seems a fine thread, so presumably BSPT 24.

Is this a common S1 issue - I can’t find a parts diagram showing the pipe in the wheel arch, or any mention of the fitting.

I am making heavy weather of this but the Dom Perignon is in order for when it is done :smiley:.

At least the other end is straightforward. I tried fitting the pipe with a flare and it makes a much better seal with the hose.

that is my take!!! Teh olive is a separatepixe that slips on to the line and then the male nut secures it in to the female fitting. under some force, it may partr!!! Not good.

when I made up my fuel lies, I usaed the tool to make the flaare doubled/ Stronger…

Hi Adrian…the fitting is called a bulkhead fuel connector you can find xj6 ones on ebay…but have a look here…but check your thread and pipe size…Brass Fuel Fittings (UNF) – Automec typically you would use harder silver solder rather than soft plumbers solder…Steve

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Thanks Steve. I shall check with Automec that it is the same thread as what I have. Then when I get it I shall get the local garage to solder it - I am going to put that skill in the same category as plastering (something I don’t need to do often enough that by the time I am competent, I have made a lot of bodges…).

I have a solder/not solder issue to resolve. Not auto related. Blame all mine. Using corded hedge trimmer on over grown fern at my outside hose spigot and reel. Almost done. POW. Machine quit. I’ve not done that for decades!!! I cut the cord!!!

Not much line cur away. No breaker trippped or fuse blownm! I can reattach the connector. or, i can splice the lie. Solder, shrink wrap and tape??? Play with my more sophisticated toys/ or a mere screw driver???

i have always enjoyed soldering. From way back…

Guess which!!!

Carl

**
…‘of course’, Adrian; with stainless you need silver solder - and even that is a bit iffy…

As an aside; two different set-ups were used for the filter - pre and post 73. Not that it is important for your specific problems - but the parts catalog may not show both…?

Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)

I agree silver solder is correct for steel to copper nickel in this application

Not sure if a propane torch will do it, I used oxy last time for something similar

Solved! I asked a local garage to solder the $¥^%%^ thing on properly for me, and got the pipe back on the car this morning.

I have replaced the fuel filter whilst the air cleaner housing was out of the way, started the car up, and all seems well with no leaks that I can discern.

Whilst I was under I noticed the steel brake pipe has some corrosion in places, nothing terrible, but I think that will be a job this winter when the car is out of action. Definitely kunifer again, so much easier to work than steel and once it’s done, should never need to be replaced.