Replacing small radius arm bushings on the car

Has anyone here tried to replace the small radius arm bushings on the car? Earl’s are failing (no doubt the el cheapo aftermarket ones) but the large ones appear OK. Doing it on the car would require me to press out the old ones and press in the new ones in situ, using a C-clamp of something similar. Not convinced it will be up to the job, but thought it worth asking. It would save the effort of removing the large end bushing which can be a pain if anti-seize wasn’t used when it was installed…

You could always make some kind of press with a length of pipe, some thick washers and a long bolt.

I’d first try removing the large end safety straps and the bolt holding the large end in place and see how easily they come off the car. You may be pleasantly surprised. If they don’t budge, you haven’t spent much time or effort.

David, John does make a good point. The big end might just pop off.

WRT getting the small end off you may struggle.

First you need to get the hub carrier out of the way. I think you would probably need to remove the lower fulcrum pin using a dummy shaft.

Then you need to get the bolt out.

Finally, you need to lift the bush up to disconnect it. This may be difficult as the floor pan will limit how far you can angle it up if the big bush is still in place.

Depends on how much the IRS drops with the car in the air. It may be easier to disconnect it downwards if the flanges for the sway bar don’t interfere.

I agree it’s worth a go though. Let us know how you go.

Isn’t there a Jaguar tool to remove the large radius arm bushing from the body post ?
The Coventry Foundation may have it along with the tools to press out the old ones and press on the new ones……

I designed a tool that will work and allow for re-use.

It works well search “simple IRS removal” under my logon

[E-Type] super easy radius arm removal technique - E-Type - Jag-lovers Forums

(If not re-using them, I cook them with a butane torch, works perfect

I would not try to do a small end in situ, too much force is needed

Yes, I have replaced a small end bushing without removing the radius arm at the large end. I tried to make a press using various size pipes etc. with a threaded rod to press/pull the old one out. Problems started in that I could not keep my spacers properly centered and the bushing was too tight for the threaded rod to move it. I scrapped that idea and cut the old one out by first removing the inner metal tube by cutting the rubber, then with a sabre saw I cut the outer metal ring and collapsed it. I do not remember how I got the new one in so it must not have been too hard.
It was annoying to do because the large bushing was fighting me from moving the arm where I wanted to position it.
Although it was not terrible doing it that way, I suggest first trying to remove the large end bushing. Only if it becomes too difficult to remove would I do it attached again.

I just checked my old thread, and many good ideas, go to the end and Steve, a regular contributor show his easy way with drawings, reckons it always works

lot of penetrant, maybe a a hint of heat, looks like it will work easy…no need to make a plate

I have found new bushes to be poor, I would only use a Metalastik OEM style if possible

…and yes, obscene amounts of copperslip

I love the smell of burning rubber in the evening, just make sure that there is paint protection above, dont be h8ng on me if you scorch the paint (or worse :face_with_open_eyes_and_hand_over_mouth:)

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Job best done on the bench. Yeah, more effort but you want to do it right. I used a couple of large 3/4” drive sockets and my 6” vice to press them out and in but a standard hydraulic press would work just as well.


If you believe the small bushings are the cheap stuff there is a good chance the large ones are too….
Maybe best to take the plunge and replace them both on a workbench.


I am with you: I would just pull the plug and do it on a bench.

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I had to resort to heat once to remove mine from the car after decades, mainly because it had a rubberized undercoating, plus body paint applied when the body was restored, so they were kind of glued on.

I scraped that off and applied generous anti-seize before replacement. When the new ones failed, I had no issue getting it off with a standard gear puller. It never comes of instantly though because I can’t apply enough force before sensing the arm distorting. So I’ll take it up to that point carefully, then back off a hair and leave it sit and go have lunch. In a couple hours I’ll hear a loud bang and return.

I had to resort to hacksaw to get the large ones out and managed to do it without damaging the part, because I stopped before it actually went through, then used a chisel. to break it free. However I suggested this method to someone else and he sawed a little too far, and scarred the inside of the arm ring and it cracked during replacement. If you scar it, replace it.


They are really difficult to do. The thickness of the internal and external metal rings make it hard to create enough force to retain the trailing arm and push it out. I drill a hole through the rubber on each side big enough to get a hacksaw blade through and cut the internal metal ring each side so I can partially collapse it.

Learned this from the Alfa Romeo boys down under. Works great .
Should be able to do on the large radius arm bush.


Thank you everyone for your advice and experience. Lots of good ideas to pursue. Based on this I’ll see if I can remove the radius arms from the car without damaging the large bush first, as it seems that replacing the small bush in situ may be an exercise in frustration. I’ll update the thread when I have more - likely to be a few weeks.

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That’s the method I used on lots and lots and lots of different arms, include those on the Jag.

I don’t understand the assertion that if you scar it, it’ll fracture when you push the bushing in: I “scarred” a few of them, and being that they’re all pretty much made out of mild steel, no fracturing happened.

A scuff in the outer tube could be a stress raiser? If the bushing has an outer sleeve - not just inner sleeve - the fitted stress between bushing and housing can be significant. As usual, I’ll defer to those with practical experience :upside_down_face:

Ostensibly… maybe, if ya sawed deep enough!

I never did, but certainly nicked a few, in a minor way: NEVER a problem upon pressing in the new bush, and never had any comebacks.

The arms are mild steel, not glass…:wink:

Sorry, I forgot subtlety is the name of the game in Colorado…

The big bushing? on the 2+2 I resorted to cutting through the rubber with a jig saw held upside down; a nasty dirty job. Once I was left with just the inner cup with some rubber hanging on it I carefully cut through the cut with a Dremel tool and cutting disk. Only about the upper 2.3 of the bushing’s cup contacts the mounting riveted to the car. I cut completely through that area and then carefully started cutting. A chisel driven into where I cut completely through the cup would spread the cup as I cut the remainder. If I took my time the cup would pop off without the cutting wheel touching the mount.

Since that first experience I slather on a liberal amount of chassis grease when I install the new bushing. They’ve always popped right off.

The technique for removing the bushing is interesting but I’m deeply dubious that the blue PU replacement bushings pictured are actually stiffer than the original double-sleeve rubber parts. I’ve had no contact with those specific parts but physical testing typically shows double-sleeve parts to be significantly stiffer than simple “inner tube + elastomer” kind as the outer sleeve allows pre-compression of the flexible material.