Replacing wishbone bushings question

Have car raised on four jack stands to about 19+ inches. Have drained engine oil and removed filter but having hard time accessing steering pinch bolt on PS unit.
Years ago sold my engine hoist which now regret. Once the front suspension assembly is out will need to lift. Any one know how much this beast weighs?
Started doing this work a few days ago but my body will only an hour or two before is tells me to call it a day. Look forward to learning the weight as garage has exposed horizontal rafters (2x8)
that hoping to suspend unit from. Thanks as always.

It’s easy to access pinch bolt if you rotate steering wheel to just where you need it.

As a guess, i think my subframe with brakes weighed 200-250 pounds?

How are you holding engine up? That’s even heavier. If that’s what you’re asking, i think 700 lbs? I bought one of those holders from harbor freight that rest along fender frames. Worth it, only $75.


I have the same fixture from Amazon, it was even cheaper. It is essential to support the engine weight and that support works perfect. I would not use a 2x8 rafter to support the engine, but you probably could use it to lift the crossmember. I stripped the brakes off of mine before I dropped it and would guess that in that state was less than 300 pounds.

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Have an engine support beam attached to front supports (made back when engine was pulled for rebuild). Had originally made to attach to back lifting rings but have modified to support front of engine. Much narrower in front than back so inverted it and using wood spacers to attache. A picture will be coming to share how it was made.
Once front suspension is dropped will be sliding it sideways under ceiling joist and then lift it to do work. Have a vacant golf cart bay next to car.
Will definitely be removing both front hub assembles before lowering.
Thanks as always for your support.

The higher you get the front end up the easier the job.
For me about 30 inches allowed me to swing the subframe out pivoted by the front bushings. If the front bushings are not being replaced, leave them connected then you can work on the subframe as is and just swing it back into place with a floor jack.

This my home made engine support. Was originally made to support engine at rear. Inverted to allow use on front, but required some wood spacers.

Been too cold to work on it but temps may rise enough to get back to work by tomorrow.


Back to work on car a few days ago and was finally able to get the lower ball joint to let go. As suggested by fellow members here it just took a big hammer and the fork tool.
Removed the left rotor assembly yesterday and will be working on the right side later today.
Yesterday got the left spring pan off with my home made tool. Wishing for the real tool as it is pretty scary relieving the spring tension enough to get the spring out.
MAY HAVE DAMAGED two threaded holes of lower wish bone. Was using grade 8 long bolts to guide spring pan off. Will know more once it can be removed and inspected.
So if you one part# C.41315 please let me know. Email preferred. Will try to send pictures of the work being done later. Thanks for all your assistance.

I used Jaguar tool to put back pans, but used the long stud method of removing pans. I also thought the threads were ruined, but it seems the grade8 stud threads took the damage instead of the pan threads.

I recommend borrowing the Jaguar tool, much easier and safer.

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Both rotor assemblies and suspension coil springs are removed but unable to lower suspension assembly due to very stuck front sub-frame bolt on left side. Right side bolt is freed.
Removed rubber bushings on both sides to insure that is was not the reason the left bolt wont come out. With great effort using 1 1/8 socket or wrench the left bolt can be turned but will not back out. Smacked the end of bot with lock nut in it using large mallet. Wont budge.
Head of bolt shown in picture.

Have you tried penetrating oil? Can’t believe they’d be that rusted? Are you sure you’ve relieved tension by lifting subframe up a bit?

You state you have been able to remove the “6 shooter” bushing? If so, the only thing that can hold the bolt is the sleeve- you should be able to heat the sleeve with a propane torch. But I would soak it in PB Blaster every couple of hours for a day; it may be enough to allow you to beat it out.

Been spraying Pb Penetrate for several days but suspension bolt on left side wont budge. Can rotate it with great effort using 1 1/8 box wrench but smacking it with large 2 pound hammer it does not move. Picture of end of bolt shows that the lock nut has been destroyed. Going to buy a heavier hammer. Afraid to use torch to heat any thing under the car.
Was able to drop front suspension after removing power steering rack.
Also polished the shaft of bolt once suspension dropped using 200 grit paper then sprayed again and again.
Sorry unable to up load picture at this time. Will try again later. Wish me luck in getting the bigger hammer to be a solution.

Try removing locknut and getting a torx screwdriver, center up best you can on end of bolt, and tap with 2 lb hammer?

If you can turn bolt, it is not rusted in place.

And i don’t understand, if bolt is still stuck, how did you drop suspension?!

By removing Power Steering unit was able to rotate lower front suspension unit enough to allow pushing it past end of bolt. Had made support frame of lumber to support.
Just returned from hardware stores and have purchased several 3/4-16 grade 5 nuts which will be threaded onto bolt as far as threads allow then will smack end of bolt with 4# hammer. 2 pounder didn’t work.
Will do this later in evening and report back if bolt moves or not.

If the sleeve is frozen on the bolt and a torch does not loosen it you may as well cut it off and replace it unless you’re just looking for a challenge. Those kind of things are pretty rough time wise. Use lots of anti seize when it goes back together. Even if Jag does not have the bolt I’m sure Fastenall or the like can come up with one.

Have you tried a crow bar or chisel on the head of bolt?

Do you have/can you rent or borrow either an electric or air powered impact wrench? I have had luck spinning the bolt while prying on the end to get it moving in cases like yours. Make sure you use an impact socket…check Home Depot or Autozone/O’Reilly’s if you need to rent one, preferably a 3/4” drive.

Thanks for the suggestion but wont be able to use an impact wrench as the TWR body kit is in the way. Would remove the front bumper if knew how but may be a bit past my ability using one good arm. IF front bumper was off to give access to bolts head I’d drill the darn thing out.
Gave that bolt several wacks today with 4# hammer but all it did was loosen some dirt from above.
On a positive note, both lower a arms are off and the bushings removed. The right side bushings where not as bad as the left but they where in sorry shape also.
Now trying how to get new lower bushing inserted since their OD is about 0.030 more than ID of A arms.
One other bit of information wanted regarding this front suspension bolt. What grade bolt is it??
Know it is 3/4-16 x 6.5 inches but is it a grade 5 or is a grade 8 required??

After overcoming my fear of fire used a propane torch after giving everything a good cleaning with fire extinguisher at the ready. Heated frame where bolt passes through a good while and gave bolt a wack with 4# hammer.
.Eureka!! Bolt is out and am sure to sleep better tonight. Have found vendor that sell these bolts and lock nuts at reasonable price. Will be calling them Monday to place an order.


Hooray! No better feeling than getting a stuck or stripped bolt out!

Make sure to put some grease or antiseize on the new bolt. Will make someone happy in 20 years.