(95 XJS Coupe) I have been looking over the workshop manuals and trying to make head or tail out of the diagrams. Good heavens, I worked on FB-111 fighter-bombers in the day and can’t figure these things out.
Hoping somebody can point me to a good source with clear pictures or at least clear and descriptive instruction to remove and replace.
Read the other threads on the topic and most of them leap from I need to, to got it out without the detail I need so I don’t create a problem instead of fix one.
No air on passenger side and silence when left side fuse is pulled. Can’t really tell if there is another A/C issue because the volume of air is so low. The defrost/cabin actuator does work, given a minute you can feel warm air the windscreen.
I want to give repairing the motor a try. Got to get through the ‘what the heck is all this stuff?’ removal to unbury the access.
Wes - I have a 95 coupe. Had my passenger side blower stop blowing. Reduced air flow tipped me off. Could hear the fan sound - - until the drivers side blower fuse pulled - - then silence. I think your resistor that is the blower assembly itself could be the culprit.
Bernard’s photos are great source of usable info for pulling that assembly out. .
Also, there is good info in the archives. A Darlington resistor (if I remember the name correctly) is on a small circuit board actually in the blower assembly. That resistor gets old and quits working. If you find the repair info in the archives, someone showed the circuit board and also listed what parts he replaced. Basically a case of pulling out the blower assembly as described and then finding the circuit board inside and soldering the replacement resistor. I think there is also a diode involved, but I have slept a few times since I did mine - - so my memory somewhat faded. I do remember that after I was finished I was extremely glad it was the pass side and not the driver. And I was aided greatly by an avionics repairmen friend who did the soldering work (and advised me that I should go ahead and replace both while I was at it). After standing on my head in the pass footwell I figured “Driver’s side ain’t broke; don’t fix it”
I will look some more and see if I can’t point you to the info I remember accessing. Then I ordered resistor and diodes over internet.
But wait, the Bernard pictures do show me something that might be very useful. The blower motors are not an integral part of the a/c unit but separate, connected by the blue rubber tube assembly. So I suppose access is behind the fuse panel. Hope it will swing aside without disconnecting. Thanks Bernard!
Found the blower. Now to set it free. Removed the fuse panel bracket and let it swing free. Remove one 12mm fastener from a bracket that goes diagonal from top near the blue duct, to bottom near the fuse panel bracket. This seemed to make the whole assembly somewhat loose. So, what’s next? Are there more fasteners? Special incantation? Don’t want to brute force anything I will regret.
Is this still applicable to a 95? “The top of the blower module’s sleeve compartment, with the door flap, protrudes through an opening in the cowel at the top of the firewall. From this location the blower module sources outside air into the HVAC system. The normal position of the blower module is with this top door open. The problem is that the module cannot be removed from it’s opening unless this top door is closed.
Using one hand, open the bottom door. Linkages inside the module forces the top door closed. Note that the top door is at the top of the sleeve compartment, not the blower motor. To remove the unit you need to pull down, and slightly out, on the sleeve compartment while keeping the bottom door open.” If so, Tuesday’s mission.
Kirbert
(Author of the Book, former owner of an '83 XJ-S H.E.)
10
Some decades back, my brother was working on his 60’s Chevy Impala and
trying to get that Bakelite airbox out. Fought with it for hours. Finally he got
frustrated enough that he just went under there with a ball pien hammer and
frammed it into shards. Then after doing the repairs, he put it all back
together with duct tape. He came away with the opinion that that is the
preferred way to work on those things. Trying to get them out intact is just a
PITA and a waste of time.
AH! There is another fastener. Got it out. Having not seen a blower assembly, does that top vent come out with the blower or? It feels loose enough now, but will not come out. I suspect the wiring harness is not giving enough room (sits right in front, near top) any tips most welcome. So close!
Well, I wonder when somebody was going to tell me the blower was ATTACHED to the wiring harness by some stout clips bolted to the blower case? WSM does not mention these either, but they most assuredly OEM. After detaching the blower from the wiring harness I was eventually able to finesse the assembly out.
Got the blower out. On the bench, now. The motor itself works when jumpered to a 12VDC source. Figuring out the Darlington and other circuit stuff next.
got the blower back in and discovered the drivers side was dead. Wondering now if I chased the wrong side. Certainly a learning experience Anyway, the WSM says the instrument panel need be removed in order to remove the LH blower. Any resources? I have done what the WSM said for the bottom side. Two fasteners 1/4-28 one on each side side, fuse panel, Bonnet pull: all removed. The blower sags as expected. Nothing but mystery on top. No illustrations to be found relative to a 95 model. Two more fasteners on top two blower “lugs”. ONLY REMOVABLE WITH INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REMOVED – Cluster wiring: squeeze on ends of sockets to release. Use some string to tie the fuse and relay assembly away and clear from the blower.
TIP: release steering tilt and while loose, bungee to brake pedal for an extra inch or so until you get the panel out.
ALSO remove bezel (three screws) before attempting to remove finishers to expose the corner screws. 88.25.14 WSM TIP: 1/4 -28 x 1-1/4" SOCKET HEAD cap screws really make the install chore easy as you can guide the screw in with some leverage.
Just a late thought…has your car ever had any AC Mods performed? The one in question would be a fresh air modification to the wiring system of the recirculation flap solenoid located behind the left transmission cheek panel. It is reported that if this mod was performed by tying a switch into the black ground wires on the solenoid, since one of the ground wires serves the left fan, it can disable that fan.
May not be your case…but worth looking for a switch that you dont know what it does…
great thought I will check out, Gary.
Driver’s side blower on the bench. problem was obvious… huge wad of fiber, probably a nest of some sort was wrapped around the blower shaft. Looks like the thermistor mod was done a while back, and is probably OK. A DC applied to the two fan (direct motor) connections did not turn the motor at all. Hand spun, then tried again a big fist sized tangle of fiber (different color than anything in my garage) came flying out. Left another tangle around the shaft that took about an hour and a half to remove. The squirrel cage part is pressed on the shaft. Looks like it would require a special jig to avoid breakage in removal.
Blowing out the fresh air channel before reassembly.
Drivers side blower tips
Instrument panel (what they really mean)
CAUTION: remove the three screws first from the sides and top, then the finishers, then the two screws that hold the panel in. It’s a bit of a Chinese box puzzle.
Tip the side “fuzzy” panels carefully from the top, they hook under the front lip of the rheostat and mirror control panels which are likely brittle from age and crack easily.
SIDE VENT TUBE
The vent tube that goes to the side vent can be easily removed. Once off the vent, fold the tube and withdraw it. The tube is actually quite pliable. Doing this tube will give much better access to two top fasteners on the blower as well as the electrical plugs going to the blower.
FUSE/RELAY PANEL
The two top nuts on the relay/fuse mount do not have to be removed from the blower, just loosened. They hold a slotted U shape hole designed to let the relay panel slide out after the bottom two fasteners are removed.
The panel has a nice amount of slack now.
BLOWER MOUNTS
¼ -28 fasteners. Replace with socket head cap screws plus a washer. The socket head will allow you to guide the screw into the captive nut.
KICK PANEL
Remove the LH kick panel. Doing so will give you better access to the hood (bonnet) release mounting. Remove the mount (just let it hang) to give more clearance for blower removal
HOLDING THE LOWER VENT OPEN
About a 2” rubber ball will hold the lower door open while wrestling with the blower
THE BLUE MONSTER PLENUM
I’ve seen these vents taped to the blower in DIY articles, but found that re-installing the blower, at least on a 95 car, can be complicated by pre-attaching the plenum.
Roll the square flange back on itself, just like you would turn the top of a sock down. Leave it overnight like that and the fitment is far nicer. That rubber or vinyl material has a little memory and will retain the a bit of the new expanded shape long enough to aid in installation
