Bill - makes sense to me. Thanks for the response.
Rich
Can someone tell me what the red “thing” is that’s shown on pin 87 of the low speed relay? This is from the Bob Skelly schematic.
Thanks,
Rich
From looking at the Bob Skelly schematic and the legend he has at the bottom, I am guessing that it’s a powered, fused connection to the factory fuse block behind the flip-down center dash panel. That would make sense to me.
Eric/@64etype may have more knowledgeable insight - I think he used Bob Skelly’s approach a basis for a lot of the wiring changes he did to his car.
RobY
It’s a fuse that Bob had relocated to a remote fuse block behind the glove box (removable false back). That (new) fuse panel is powered by the large 100 amp “ignition relay”, which is in turn activated by the key. I also use a remote panel in that location, but moved the heater relays and the related fuses to the electrical panel under the heater box. Slightly different arrangement for my 3.8 alternator and AC upgrades.
Eric and Rob - thank you. I’m planning on adding a remote fuse box, heater relays and dedicated fuses.
Rich
Here’s a photo of the main remote fuse and relay panels on my car. Relays include hi and low beam, parking/instrument lights, heater hi and low, and the radiator fan. The panel I located behind the glove box has fuses for all of the warning lights, and the ignition/starter system. It also has two relays for starter/ignition, and one circuit breaker for the AC. I call the panel under the heater box “the stack”. The battery feeds two 40 amp fuses (the rectangular boxes) at the top of the stack…one for switched and one for hot circuits. The middle layer is a line of relays, and bottom is fuses (a mix of “hot” and switched items). BTW, the heater motor is the Grainger unit.
Eric - very impressive and thanks for the information. I need to study the schematic a lot more before I attempt to duplicate. I still have one PO electrical modification that I need to run down.
My apologies for posting my original question about Bob Skelly’s schematic. I was studying it on my computer screen and had it magnified. I didn’t see the legend on the bottom right (duh).
Rich
I would partially disagree. The hemp, or it’s modern equivalent, which I would call felt, will indeed absorb water. But do we reallly get into our Etypes with lug soles full of snow that we let melt into the floorboards? Also, if you do the Koolmat correctly, it basically makes a watertight membrane in the footwell/floor area. So the water that may get in there from washing the car, etc, can evaporate without actually wetting the metal parts. Finally, when I did my, I found the felt does a nice job of sound deadening. I know a lot of people talk about sound deadening with Dynamat etc but frankly, my Etype is not the car I pick to go out in and listen to Mozart in.
Here is a link to an article I did on Koolmat. As noted, one area where you really have to watch the thickness is around the center console. I would avoid felt in that area. Regarding your photo, I would guess that the adhesive is for the hardura panels that fit up there. If doing Koolmat, I would try to put it on any panel that has engine compartment heat exposure on the other side. The area shown in your photo qualfies.
1 Like
Thanks Harvey. I bought the Koomat and plan on putting felt over it and eliminate the hemp. I understand the issue with too much thickness around the center console. I don’t plan on dropping the engine and transmission so insulating the underside of the tunnel doesn’t appear to be an option. I haven’t figured out what, if anything, to do to insulate the tunnel.
Rich
Can anyone tell me what the two rusted bolt holes are for? This is behind the glove box one above the wire harness and one diagonally below.
Thanks,
Rich
RH Drive twenty spaces
Scot - I don’t know what 20 spaces refers to. Judging from the rust line it appears something may have been attached there at some time.
Rich
You can’t make a post without it being twenty characters long. That’s to stop people from posting really short responses like “OK” or “Ditto”. You can get around that by “padding” the message so it’s twenty characters or more; that’s what Scot did with his “twenty spaces” line.
An alternative is to write your message and if you get the message that says “Message must be at least 20 characters”, go to the end of what you wrote and hold down the period key until that message disappears. then hit “Reply”. Your short message will show up with about 3 periods behind it, no matter how many you actually added.
3 Likes
As John said Rich
. Here is the same pic on my car. I don’t remember what exactly they were used for but they were for the RH drive cars. (The bronze paint is over the factory red in my pic. Some PO had painted this car bronze and it’s just too hard to get off.)
That’s a good trick John. I didn’t know that but will use it from now on.
Thank you for the information. (20 plus characters - lol)
Rich
FYI there are several holes of this size that feed the flex tubes that lead up to the defrost vents on the dash pad. I don’t think the one behind the glovebox is one of those but I am not clear that the one that you say is “behind the wiring harness” might not be one of those. As I recall, on my S1 cars there are 3 holes all within the width of the center drop down panel that serve this purpose but a S1.5 might be different. Immediate to the subject holes is a rubber right angle fitting inserted into the holes.
I’m looking to install some heat and noise insulation for the tunnel. I’ll be using Koolmat on the top hopefully without affecting reinstallation. I’ve read the postings about the DEI Tunnel Insulation. Has anyone been able to install that without having the exhaust and transmission out of the car?
Thanks,
Rich
Are you looking at a mechanically attached, or adhesive? Adhesive would have trouble sticking if not recently thoroughly cleaned. Mechanically attached might work if you can reach around the granny and driveshaft some how. I just ended up doing it in the the cockpit side. I have no plans to pull the drivetrain again before I die. That either means a short life left or my last rebuild was good. 
1 Like
Not wanting to add anything to the top that would elevate the console, even an eighth of an inch, I applied it to the underside. Even then, with the thick foam pad over the gearbox, the application is probably a little redundant. To keep exhaust fumes out of the cockpit the factory used a thin layer of dumdum on the inside of the top where it attaches to the tunnel, but even this will raise the lid higher a tad. A better solution is to forego the sealant and use aluminum duct tape over the join after the top is screwed into place. All this, of course, to aid in being able to lower the drop down centre panel completely.
I applied the insulation to the outside of the tunnel, that is inside the cockpit, with no clearance issues.