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Yes.
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Yes, AFAIR.
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looks like you identified the incorrect phasing. You can swap it around, if you can get the clamp off w/o destroying the boot.
Turns out the rubber boot is in really great shape and I was able to slide it over the splines without damaging it. Now I’ll be able to fix the phasing, and I guess I’m going to have to ensure it’s balanced as well. I hope to find a local shop the can do that for me.
Getting ready to strip the paint off:
Now we can see the rust much better. 
Mainly light surface rust, but I’ll clean it up good and paint it.
I bought a length of 4” diameter PVC pipe and a cap to fab a container to soak the prop shaft in Evaporust. I really like that stuff!
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Rob
If you are looking for a shop to work on your drive shaft, check out this place in Daytona.
They did EXCELLENT work on the half-shafts on a Corvette I once owned.
GARY’S DRIVELINE
Hope it helps
Carlo
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Been making slow but steady progress. I’ll get some pictures up sometime soon. In the meantime, to go with the inner fulcrum bearing tube pictures from earlier, here are the bearings - I just pressed them out tonight. Two of the eight are definitely in poor shape!
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Certainly are… I’m guessing you’ll replace all the bearings during the rebuild
Yes. I’m pretty sure the ones I removed are the originals and have served their time!
While I was trying to figure out what happened to May, half of June has slipped by! Where does the time go?!?!
I’ve been cleaning, priming and painting, mostly - when I get the chance. The prop shaft is cleaned up, painted, and has new u-joints. I still need to get it balanced. The u-joint covers, radius arm safety straps, and anti-roll bar end links have also been cleaned, primed and painted:
The u-joints were a challenge. I haven’t done UJs before and it’ll be too soon when I have to again! I did learn and improve through the experience though. While installing one of the new Spicer 5-153X joints, I dropped a needle bearing and needed to remove the cap to fix it, but the x-body was large enough that it’d hit the flange before I could get the cap pressed out far enough to remove it. I ended up cutting the cap with a cut-off tool just to get it out.
Nervous about screwing it up again, I paused to plan my next steps. I purchased a couple of Spicer 5-1310X UJs (same as the -153X’s but non-greaseable / "sealed for life) to see if those were constructed any differently, and they were! The body was roughly the same as the -153X’s, but the taper between the trunnions on the x-body offered more clearance for pressing. Also, the caps had a longer taper (which made inserting and aligning much easier), and the precision-fit section of the cap was not as deep as the -153X’s. The extra space only seemed to be an issue with the yokes on the gearbox and differential flanges - they are a bit thicker than the yokes on the prop shaft itself. The -1310x’s worked much better for me and I was able to get the job done.
After I get a chance to go through and label the precision-fit areas for masking, I intend to send the parts in the below picture out for cleaning and semi-gloss black powder coating. I’ve already removed all the bearings and bushings and degreased (for the most part). The the two radius arms and the tie plate were straightened for me by a local metal fab shop - it was definitely worth the $75 cost!
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I know!!
And, after 21 June, days get shorter.
I’ve got a few bits left over from my recent IRS rebuild which might save you some time and money. Yours for the price of a small USPS flat rate box.
Top to bottom, left to right:
Grease seals are for the inner hub bearings on later S1’s and all S2’s (I found out my early 4.2 car had 3.8 seals after I ordered the wrong ones). A couple of IRS cage shims. Outer fulcrum shaft shims. Dummy assembly shafts (long one for outer fulcrum, short ones for inner fulcrum to hold the grease seals in position while getting the wishbone into the cage, then the medium ones to hold the wishbone in place). Square shims for the diff to inner fulcrum brackets. And in the center a new .150" hub shim to use as a checking reference (in lieu of the special Jaguar tool).
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I appreciate that, Steve! I’ll send you a PM…
RobY
Rob, I’m following this thread with great interest as an IRS drop and rebuild is on my to-do list this fall. I have been trying to make a list of all the parts I need to acquire in advance of starting and this thread has been helpful. Just today I sent an email to Coventry West to inquire about getting a rebuilt XJS diff with 2.88’s. I had to send them photos of my calipers given that apparently there are two different calipers mounting methods and the correct diff is determined by which calipers I have.
Keep up the good work.
You’ll love the 2.88 diff never look for 5 th again
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Here are a couple of pictures of one of my new IRS mounts compared to one of the old ones I removed from the car. The new ones are the genuine Jaguar C17198, and I believe the old one is an original (it says “Metalastik” on the rubber). Despite being old, the rubber looked to be in good shape and I was surprised to see such a height difference.
They appear to be dimensionally similar, with the exception of the thickness of the rubber. Do you believe the difference is just due to the new (fresh) vs old (compressed) or should I be concerned with the difference?
Also, just for an update, last Monday I sent the following lot of components out to be powder coated in semi-gloss black. It’ll be a few weeks due to the shop’s backlog of work…
Looking at the distortion of the metalastic component it is obviously dropped which would account for the loss of dimension.
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I don’t see how that is going to fit properly when the holes don’t line up. The cage will sit lower. Someone needs to confirm, as I’ve never had mine apart, but looking at them, they are two different sizes. The rubbers look the same size so I can’t imagine they have compressed that much to shorten the mount that much.
Just look at the shape of the rubber blocks.
What you are seeing is just years of compression, yes the cage will sit lower, this just raises the ride height back to where it was when new (apart from any other variables that have been introduced, springs sagging, different tyres from standard or possibly gas shocks losing their charge.
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Not yet having performed this IRS project yet, wouldn’t the new mounts “settle” a bit when the weight of the car is lowered onto the IRS when completed? I would expect the new mounts to initially be a bit taller since the rubber hasn’t been compressed yet.
Just build it …… mine has new ones and ride height is perfect…… old ones were a bit thinner…. Years of work I guess
There have been discussions elsewhere on how these rubber mounts are no longer the same size. I ended up having to slot some holes to get them to lineup. I only slotted the holes after I delaminated one trying to force it into position.
Thanks Bill. I had read of people having issues and I was hoping to avoid that by purchasing the twice-the-price genuine Jaguar parts. I guess I’ll do a little more reading to be more informed for when installation day comes. Maybe I’ll do a “dry fit” with an empty cage first too.