Rolling restoration: 1989 3.6

Not if they have short term memory loss :joy_cat:

That’s what the camera is for

Robin, that is a good reminder, thanks.
In the photo the ”fat” areas seem to be at 11, 1 and 6 o’clock.

Only when its stationary :smile_cat::smile_cat:

Robin, exactly! :joy:

Don B advises on another forum in an old thread: “You probably will need to disconnect the center bearing bracket so the bearing can move forward to allow the extension on the end of the driveshaft flange to be pulled out of the Jurid. Before you remove the center bearing bracket screws, scribe around their heads and mark the location of the inner bar so you can get it all back in the same position on reassembly. The slight sideward orientation of the center bearing is important to reduce driveshaft/propshaft vibration. If the new disc you receive has the bolt holes arranged in three reinforced pairs, you want to be sure to install it so that the driveshaft’s direction of rotation causes the bolts connected to the driveshaft to apply force to the bolts connected to the differential by way of the reinforced areas.”

I am not quite sure what the bold text actually means. The bracket is most likely the part 17 in the diaphgram. But what is the inner bar?

By the way, there is a bead of orange sealant between the differential
housing and the output shaft flange. I think I will use a bit of sealant (black RTV) as advised by Dennis.

Concerning the differential output bearing replacement, I have now determined the correct socket that fits on to the nuts holding the half shaft to the flange. That is a 16 mm 3/8 socket. The diameter of the socket is 21.7 mm.

It seems that the way to loosen the nuts is to engage the handbrake since it prevents spinning of the half shaft. However, I would like to use some other method.

I found that the handbrake is not strong enough to prevent the half shaft from rotating when loosening the nuts holding the half shaft to the flange. Any ideas? In order to have access to the nuts, the rear of the car is jacked up, of course.

Use a bar between the wheel studs (with nuts attached) and brace the bar to the floor.

Robin, I have tried that but without the nuts. In order to avoid damaging the studs, I did not want to apply excessive force. However, your idea of having the nuts on the studs is good, so thanks.

I lowered the other rear wheel to the ground and blocked it. Now it is possible to remove the nuts on the other side. But they are very tight!

Otto …

Here’s a good video on your project (with comforting music) ,

Although I take pride in doing all the repairs on my car myself I decided to just take the two output shafts to a machine shop and have them remove and replace the collars.

It’s also a good idea to apply a bead of sealant outside the “O” ring as second line of defense.


I did find that video earlier. It is helpful but do not cover the actual removal of the nuts. :sweat_smile:

I find your idea of applying a thin coat of sealant between the differential
housing and the output shaft flange relevant and I will follow that path even if I know there are opposing views, too. :ok_hand:

Otto …

Sounds like a good idea


That is great. :ok_hand:

I think I will apply a small bead of RTV sealant outside the O-ring.

This is pretty remarkable product, not sure where it would be applicable on your current escapade but a fine addition to any toolbox.

Larry …

I agree, Permatex is a great product. This is my personal go to stuff …


I agree. That black Permatex is great, and I will use it in this project, too.

“The right stuff” is NOT that. Read carefully!

I managed to remove the nuts. But two of the five 17 mm bolts that attach the flange to the differential are difficult or even impossible to remove. It is not possible to use a socket, even a crowsfoot socket. The two lowest bolts and the rearmost bolt are not that difficult to remove with a wrench, but I do not know, at least yet, how to remove the top bolt and the one closest to the ”A-frame”.

Is this post from the archive helpful?