You need to have an eye on it and help it along if it wants to bind. I do 153624 and avoid confusing myself even more.
Rough idle main causes are timing, cam timing, mixture (air leaks, old injectors, settings or sensors). Sometimes the cam timing wanders so look at it before you disconnect the cams.
yeah. Way back when, six cylinder chevrlets suffered from valve stem oil leakage. the cars ran well but smoked at times. One fix was a steel unmbrella to shield the stem from oil sray.
pugging the crankcase vent exacerbtes teh oil issue Vent to the atmsphere works. Not emision frendly, though.
Rough idle can be found in multiple carb sychronization.
Diesoing at shut dwn can be caused by idle speed set to fast. throttes not close enough, engine continues tomrun sans electric gnition.
Decarbonize the chambers. that may help. a cuple f ways.
Carla
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The sequence of cylinders treated is sort of immaterial, Andre, but it is practical to start with #1 and #6 as the TDC marking refers to these cylinders - and the TDC is a vital reference on engine work.
The cylinders work in pairs as implied - just watch which cylinders comes to their TDCs as the engine is turned 120 deg. As David says; it’s very important to avoid snarling up cam chains - it may be the most cumbersome part of the operation.
Also, care must be taken to avoid applying force directly on the valve stems; valve heads are very easily bent - a spring compressor should be used for best control. Again, the operation must finish with careful cam timing - using TDC mark and rotor as references…
As an aside, if using air pressure instead of rope; setting the pistons at TDC the same way is of course pertinent - as it is when using other methods to restrain valve movement when changing inlet valve oil seals…
And again; changing these oil seal will not instantly cure run-on or uneven idle…
Frank
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)