Routing for water temperature capillary

Does the water temperature sensor capillary route over the top of the carbs or down below them on the way from the gauge to the thermostat housing on the radiator?

David
For a 150 it runs on top of the inlet manifold and into the firewall, it has three clips holding it which are attached to the inlet manifold nuts.

…whereas for a 140 (and possibly 120), it runs along the top of the bulkhead footwell to the side of the engine bay, travels along the inner wing past the carbs and goes directly across to the inlet manifold with a couple of loops to allow for movement.

Thanks for the information guys, what a fund of knowledge this forum is.
It’s a 120 DHC and I completely forgot to write down/photo the original routing when it was removed so that the engine could be overhauled.
Just finished the re-wiring, they must have had midgets with minute hands in the factory when they constructed the cars and installed the facia looms, but they are in now along with some of my skin from my hands, just hope there are no mammoth bangs when I fit the batteries!

You need confirmation from a 120 owner!

I’ll chime in, but I can’t vouch for authenticity, only how I’ve got it set up.

The ether tube takes a 180 from the thermostat housing to the inner wing

It’s fixed to the inner wing with five small omega clips, many of which also secure the bonnet release cable and the right front wiring harness: red arrows

It takes a curve toward the inner dash just past the washer bottle - I think there’s supposed to be a P-clip on that first screw (red arrow) - then is P-clipped to the top of the front bulkhead and then enters the dash along with the oil pressure tube.

Again, can’t claim it’s “right”, but it works.

Mine is pretty much as Nick’s. I also checked Tadek’s photo record of his disassembly work and his is the same.
One P-clip on the horizontal shelf, 5 omega clips along the upper right inner valence, where there should be 1/4" holes for them, then over to the thermostat housing where there is a coil in the tube.

Would there be a benefit to a coil in the ether tube?

It’s mainly for protection against vibration, to act like a spring rather than a long span bridge.
I neglected to mention that mine is a 120FHC and Tadek’s is a 120OTS.

It’s a good job Nick chimed in - the 140 fitting for this is in a completely different place on the inlet manifold, hidden behind the thermostat housing. The path along the wing side top is the same, though.

I notice that the 120 owners are LHD cars whereas mine is RHD so I have the steering column in the way and the ether tube is not long enough to go from the firewall, across to the inside of the right wing bulkhead and then on to the radiator. I think I will take the advice to go along the rocker box nuts above the carbs and then to the thermostat housing. The input is much appreciated.
One last question. I have used Volvo coolant in the radiator for over 30 years now but I’m about to drain the system and change all the hoses and the thermostat housing, what is the consensus of opinion for the best additive/coolant in the radiator? I’m in the north of Scotland so like the Canadians we have really low winter temperatures and lamentably not much heat in the summer.

I did a quick browse through RHD pictures in XKDATA.COM and there seem to be several different routings but with one most common. This one is similar to what I did, up and over the front of the engine then toward the right wing valence

This one too

This one is unique and likely not what the factory did, neat though

Same with this one, it loops under the housing then follows the intake camshaft cover back to the firewall

And this one loops over the thermostat housing and then goes along the intake camshaft cover

And this one appears to be the most common, with the tube tucking below the thermostat housing then doing a 180 toward the right wing valence

So, all over the map.

The routing options seem to depend on how long the ether tube is.

I have used a 50:50 mixture of dehumidified water and blue (non OAT) antifreeze for over 20 years without issues in 1920’s cars. It could be any purified water available but my dehumidified is free because it is otherwise waste from a home dehumidifier. Deionised and distilled is also OK but there is speculation about pure rainwater.
If your car is left outside in the winter you would want to increase the proportion of antifreeze. Either way there is no reason not to run the mixture all year round.

Thank you for the photos Nick, I think I have enough information now.
As you say, it depends how long the ether tube is so I’ve routed it along the top of the inlet manifold above the carbs, up over the rocker box cover and a 180 deg turn into the thermostat housing, it’s a perfect fit.

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