Can anyone clarify please what the original factory running board strips were like for a 1948 MK IV 1 1/2ltr? Mine is the SE version. I know there are 3 at each side, their lengths, and fixing positions but I have seen cars with both solid chrome length pieces and others with chrome channels into which rubbers are fitted (also seen one with non original rubber mats). I have both types of strip sets available (be they need re-chroming before going on) - but if the “rubber” versions are needed as the authentic parts then the replacement new rubber inners I can obtain (which have a domed top) make the overall height too high by a fraction for the doors to open!! I can’t raise the doors any and I can’t drop the running board any lower, and so far I can’t find a low profile rubber to fit the channel strips I have. The other solid chrome strips I have are an overall lower profile and provide sufficient clearance.
So far the rubber inserts I have found are for other Jaguar cars (like e-type luggage compartment runners, etc) and probable a wrong profile, difference compound manufacture, or nominally out on size to what might have been used on the MK IV.
Yes I’ve looked at the old posts, but I can’t see it addresses this specific issue. I’m trying to establish if there was a physical difference or optional extra with perhaps the SE version car’s extra spec having chrome only strips and other cars having rubber insert strips - I’ve seen both types used. Also the size and profile of the rubber (and potential suppliers) needs clarification please so I can purchase the most appropriate type.
Thanks for the photos. I’ve already got these 2 styles of rubbers from Worcester Classics, together with their more dome shaped type - the ribbed and domed versions being a deeper profile than the flat type. I’ve managed however to get my doors lifted slightly on their hinges, so they now clear these rail with either rubber in them, but I would still like to find out what specific profile was fitted on the original 1948 MK IV (flat, ribbed, or domed) and if indeed the Special Equipment SE version had the solid chrome rails that were on my car when I bought it from the previous family. Your photo of the flat rubber type from the rear boot/luggage compartment rails on your MK V is the same looking as I have in my e-Type, where as my MK IV boot rubbers inside the rails are perhaps slightly more dome shape (unless heavy luggage in your boot has squashed yours!!). The down side of buying new rubber parts is that I find that most of them are often slightly different to the originals, but having something similar and fits (with some re-working perhaps) is often better than nothing. Unfortunately the Jaguar Parts Lists are not that definitive on some parts as us classic car owners would often like to have, and sometimes the extra parts missed off from the deluxe models and “options”.
Just need to check if the 3 ridge rubber strip is therefore correct for all models of the 1948 MK IV (including my SE version) - as my car (and a few others I’ve seen) have solid chrome only strips. I didn’t know if the “all chrome versions” were aftermarket, optional extras, or standard on the SE (UK model).
I believe Peter is correct in that they were three-ribbed, not crowned, as standard. Three-ribbed looks much superior anyway. I expect cheaper cars to have the plain profile. Mine had very old three-ribbed inserts that were exceptionally hard and brittle and needed to be dug out in pieces, and they looked bad enough to be the originals.
Yes, clearance from the door swing needs to be catered for. A car I worked on had a ‘makeover’ a few decades back and crowned inserts were used, resulting in some minor fouling on the front door edge. Changing to the ribbed variety gave the whisker clearance needed. But maybe something else needs to be done as it is normal to have 3-5mm clearances on body parts. Can the mudguard be sprung down a bit and retightened? Call a heavy friend to help…tell them they just have to sit around for a bit. Just a snippet to consider - these long strips tend to shrink slowly over time and you eventually have a gap at one or both ends. I tend to cut them an inch or so longer and gradually draw them into the channels as I near the ends, then push them back hard into the tips. Make sure the spur is presenting well enough to sprag the end of the rubber. I don’t know if this will prevent this problem as only time will tell and I’m unlikely to be the owner by then
As an extra to this, I saw a photo of a boot fitted with additional rubbing strips up the boot back panel (4) and two on each side. I think it can be easily done with a mix of tool locker lid strips and boot floor strips. I doubt this was a factory fitment or dealer option, but it is a good idea to prevent those actual or potential scuff marks on a newly painted boot lining. Also, the boot linings, including floor, were made of steel or aluminium apparently, probably randomly fitted depending on supplier at the time. The problem with the alloy is that it is soft and shows dents easily. It is easier to make new ones than to try and make the old ones flat again. I spent more time repairing dented panels than it took to replace them.
All MK Ivs had brass chromed extrusions running board strips with rubber inserts with 3 ridges. The all chrome shallow D section strips were on SS1 and SS2s.
The strips in the boot had plain rubber [ as use don MG T Types]
The metal strips can often be damaged by people standing on them by the guard being curbed on the nearside, and other’'stuff that happens
New extrusion is made for E Types and sold b y Martin Robey.
However they seem reluctant to sell it ho w you want it. That is , cut to length, ends cut to shape and UNCHROMED. A previous supplier sold them cut to length but insisted on selling them chromed which was absolutely pointless… Chrome makes the brass bristtle and as they were / are sold straight. they won’t bend smoothly and as they didn’t have theholes drilled, drilling through the chrome started to peel it
So you need to buy it in straight length sunfinished. Years ago we bought a small mass purchase and dividied it amongst the Register.
A local tool maker made a punch to cut the "W “shape in the ends. This needs to be accuurate to get and even shape when the ends are squeezed together and soldered. Then bent to the guard /running board profile . holes drilled and then chromed finally.
It is a close tolerance between the bottom of the doors and the rubber. That’s why the holes in the sill are slotted. It can be a problem as the sills and bottoms of the doors are commonly replaced … and often not accurately enough
Finally when installing the rubbers, the rubber needs to be alittle1”-2"longer than the metal strip. Insert each end first and work towards the middle. Other wise you stretch the rubber and over a period it pulls back from the end and you commonly see the rubbers being short in the strips.
The factory either used pop rivets or screws to hold the strips to the guards. i use 1/"brass round head screws and nuts. The advantage being that if you need to remove the strips for repairs to the running board later, you can leave the rubbers in the strips an d jut undo the nuts underneath. The rubber will hold the screws from turning and the rubbers , if you tried to remove and replace them won’t be as easy as when they were new, because they will have hardened…
The pic of the boot interior with strips on the side was not standtrd but taken at the factory when they were developing the model.
Thanks all for the information. I’ve already got enough new metal strips and rib rubber in my workshop, so will make some up to size and shape before getting them chrome plated and the rubber inserted. My tip before fitting rubber strips is to put it in the fridge for an hour - does make it less plyable but less shrink back.
I wonder were the all chrome strips came from on my SE car?
