Rust found at right hand (LHD) toe panel

In addition to that, and reading along with this thread, I don’t see any particularly good way that that could be adequately repaired with the engine and frames in situ.

One final thought. Robey also sells floor sections, but unfortunately you have to buy a large floor panel to get the front section. And if you cut the floor in that area, you will also need new jacking points for the ones that are welded onto that floor section. Robey also has those. So parts are not a problem, but the repair itself is not easy.

At the risk of incurring the wrath of the forum, if you cannot undertake the repair with the frame and engine in place, a temporary damage control measure would be to dose the exposed areas with rust encapsulator and then seal it off from the front so no more moisture can enter. That is not a fix, but just damage control.

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Correct, and I should clarify that isn’t what I was implying by this statement

Possibly using an angle drill or Dremel tool you might be able to bore out the spot welds from the inner sides?

Ideally, with a bare tub, one would bore out the spot welds from outside the panel’s perimeter. If he wanted to attempt this with a fully populated engine bay, the only way to attack it would be from the interior rim of those welded sides, not the interior of the car. It still wouldn’t be fun as those mating lips aren’t even an inch deep. Alternatively perhaps a side grinder could be used so long as it stopped before penetrating into the outer panels. I really wouldn’t want to be the person tasked with this.

I undertook the labor intensive task of grinding off the spot welds from inside the flanges successfully and did not disturb the outer panels. But you would not want to have someone do that that was being paid by the hour.

Rod, I have talked with and sent pics to a very experienced shop owner who has done work for me in the past as well as engine weight in situ. I did not tell him of your work so as not to influence him and he immediately said that he would cut out the bad metal and butt weld in cut pieces from Martin Robert panels, same as your solution. Also said the structure is very robust and the V12 does not need to come out. He’s owned a Jag specific shop and worked on these cars for 40 years.

So I’m still gathering information.

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I’ve replaced that panel without taking the engine out . I went great . You could ask Chuck he’d be good info. I can’t spell mono whatever

Ouch. It sounds like you’ll be replacing the bottom of the front panel and the front of the floor. Good luck.

kind regards
Marek

It’s a english sports car, there always will be rust no matter what
Don’t beat yourself up
Part of it

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That is very good news you found someone that knows the drill, but I hope you don’t get sticker shock when he provides the cost estimate. And I am also glad that my own design of the remedy is the same as a pro recommends. It’s almost a miracle.:slightly_smiling_face:

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