[s-type] Considering buy 2005 3.0 S-type ~100K miles, what to look for?

S-Type
1

Hi, I am new to the forum and to the Jags. Have been close to
buying one before couple of times, but never happened.
I found an ad for the 2005 3.0 S-type at slightly lower than
100K miles. COnsidering to use it as daily driver, 30 miles
mostly hiway commute.
I have been keepring up a couple RWD Volvos before, foing a lot
for non-major engine work on them. SO I can do breaks, fluid
changes, some electrical componenet diagnostics and swap,
radiator swap, some minor suspension work myself in the
driveway, if necessary, but I am not looking really for another
project at this point.
This would be the 2nd car, so some predictable down time is
non-desirable, but acceptable.
I am ready to spend $$$ up-front to replace potential
catastrophic failure-prone components up-front, e.g. timing
belt, plastic radiator tanks, etc… How expensive would that
be?

There is a Jag dealer 3 miles from me, Never had to deal with
them, though.
Any good independnet shop(s) working on Jags to go to in
Norhtern NJ arounf Morristown/Summit/Parsippany, NJ?

If I do go to check this car out, what should I be checking
first? What to look for in the service records in particular?

Do 3.0 have timing belt or chain? Is it interference engine?

Are they prone to rust? Both car and myself are in NJ.

Any really expensive failures like self-leveling suspensions?

How friendly woudl 2005’ S-type be to Bluetooth, iPhone,
Android, iPod, USB? Would I have to replace the radio for that?
Any known good solutions there?

What about diagnostics tools? Any Manuals, Jag-specific
computer interfaces available?

Thanks in advance for the advice,
-Michael–
740gle
chatham, nj, United States
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2

In reply to a message from 740gle sent Tue 12 Jan 2016:

Hi, my 1999 3.0 that I’ve had 2 years, has been trouble
free…I had to replace 2 ball joints last rego , but other
than that they seem very reliable…Cant help with that
specific years questions… but I did get an Autel meter for
around $400 so I could analyse the incessant problems with
an ML320 I have the misfortune to own… will do most modern
cars quite thoroughly…
Cheers–
99 S type ,05 R3
Sydney NSW, Australia
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3

In reply to a message from Dean K sent Tue 12 Jan 2016:

I bought mine in March 2009 after my Volvo 740 GLE tormented
me with an entire month of one problem after another.

I love the S-Type and it has been my daily driver ever
since, now has 218,000 miles on it.
It has a timing chain, so no worries about a belt. I think
they last a really long time so no worries about
interference on the valves.
I have the Actron CP9125 OBD-II code reader which can
identify most common problems.
There is a manual on CD available from dealers, Jaguar
Daimler Heritage Trust and other internet sources.
Some things like wiring diagrams can be found for free on
the web.
The most expensive repair I’ve had was the catalytic
convertors, which I believe had been ruined by a previous
owner using the old ZDDP phosphorus oil.
My window lift mechanism has broken 3 times due to trying to
open the window when it was covered with ice. Same with the
sunroof, don’t touch the switch when there is ice on the
roof. The gas tank door will also collect ice.
A lot of the parts are the same as Lincoln LS, including the
window and sunroof mechanisms.
The heater control valve is a real pain to change, and I’ve
had to do it twice because the chinese aftermarket one
didn’t last a year.

Other than that its mostly normal maintenance and things
that go bad with high mileage like relays and anti-roll bar
links.–
XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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4

Hi Michael,

Like Rob, I love my S Type and also use it as a daily driver. Although <50k
miles its almost 16 years old and was a bit neglected by the PO. So far the
only essential maintenance I’ve had to do is to change the Coolant expansion
tank which was cracked and leaking and I’ve also had two coils fail. Mine’s
a V8 so six more to go! In terms of preventative maintenance, the upper
timing chain tensioners and water pump have been changed and also the
transmission fluid and filter.

The 3 litre V6 is a Ford derived engine whereas the AJV8 is genuine Jaguar.
The timing chain tensioner and water pump problems were resolved in later
(post 2002) cars when the V8 was opened out to 4.2litres. If you buy the
100k miles car I would recommend that you get the transmission fluid and
filter changed if these haven’t been done in the last 40k miles. Sealed for
life they are definitely not but you do need to use precisely the specified
fluid. If it has never been changed I would also get the transmission
flushed through.

Minor problems on my car have been related to the door lock actuators which
failed but I have repaired and the remote key fob only working
intermittently (traced to the shutter on the ignition barrel sticking) and a
couple of insignificant electrical faults that I still have to pin down.

One other item of PM was to Waxoyl the rear subframe which is a S Type
killer over here in the UK because they rust through as a result of the
amount of salt we put on our roads in the winter so this is worth checking
on any potential purchase.

Most informed opinion seems to be that later cars are better than the
earlier ones but I am very happy with mine. I think the S Type is basically
a good car and bearing in mind that you can buy early cars for a few hundred
pounds over here they represent astonishingly good value for money.

Let us know if you buy the car.

Eric
Church Stretton, Shropshire, UK

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5

In reply to a message from 740gle sent Tue 12 Jan 2016:

The only things I will add :

  • Look for rust in the rear wheel arch edge.
  • Test the left/right temperature regulation.
  • Check the battery condition. Under a certain level the s
    system cut off.
  • Check all wheels run freely.
  • Ask the shop to control all registrated failiers on the c
    control box of the car.(if there is any)
  • Read the owners handbook an test alle electric funktions.

All depends of the guarantee in the deal.
Good luck
Leo–
LeoN - Denmark
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6

In reply to a message from Leo Nyg sent Fri 15 Jan 2016:

Thank you gentlemen. Unfortunately this one is gone, but I am
still on lookout.
What are the differences in terms of ownership experience between
3.0 and 4.0 ? Does 4.0 have more expensive components in the
engine, body or suspension?–
740gle
chatham, nj, United States
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7

Other than the engine, I don’t think there are any major differences between
the 3.0 & 4.0 litre cars. Body and suspension depend more on options (e.g.
thing like adaptive damping) than engine although depending on age some
options may not have been available with the smaller engine. As I mentioned
before, post 2002 the 4.0 litre became 4.2 litres and the earlier problems
with the upper chain tensioners were resolved by fitting aluminium bodied
tensioners rather than a plastic ones. Also the water pump was upgraded for
improved reliability. Both these upgrades can be retrofitted to the 4.0litre
engine.

There are bound to be some under-bonnet configuration differences between
the two engines - i.e. the location of components changed e. g. the coolant
expansion tank is in a different place depending on which engine and whether
left or right hand drive.

I would stress if going for a high miler auto, if it hasn’t already been
done getting the transmission flushed through and the fluid & filter
renewed. It’s a low cost, high value preventative maintenance job. The five
speed autos are Ford. I think (open to correction on this) after 2002 autos
were six speed ZF boxes.

I love the V8. It’s silky smooth, quiet with squillions of torque and at
least you can change the plugs without removing the inlet manifold on the
V8.

Eric
Church Stretton, Shropshire, UK.-----Original Message-----
From: owner-s-type@jag-lovers.org [mailto:owner-s-type@jag-lovers.org] On
Behalf Of 740gle
Sent: 20 January 2016 10:00
To: s-type@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: [s-type] Considering buy 2005 3.0 S-type ~100K miles, what to
look for?

In reply to a message from Leo Nyg sent Fri 15 Jan 2016:

Thank you gentlemen. Unfortunately this one is gone, but I am still on
lookout.
What are the differences in terms of ownership experience between
3.0 and 4.0 ? Does 4.0 have more expensive components in the engine, body or
suspension?

740gle
chatham, nj, United States
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Jag-lovers - Donate at http://www.jag-lovers.org/donate04.php –

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services and resources including Photo Albums, Event Diary / Calendar, On
Line Books and more !

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8

In reply to a message from 740gle sent Tue 12 Jan 2016:

An attractive feature in my 1966 Jag is the original Smiths
Radiomobile radio fitted by Henlys when new, and the
appearance and sound quality is very good despite being a LW
/ MW only unit. Unfortunately, there are nowadays nearly no
radio stations worth listening to still broadcasting on
MW/LW. I did not want to go down the route of converting to
negative earth and fitting a modern stereo, and wanted to
retain the original unit and sound quality. The solution is
what is known as a �wired modulator� and there are a few
variants available in the marketplace, but the one I have
settled on is the Redirad, designed and manufactured in the
US. What this does is connect iphone, mp3 player,
smartphone, CD player, whatever makes sound and has a 3.5mm
output socket, directly to the original radio via the
antenna lead. The unit is small (a little larger than a pack
of playing cards) light, and easy to connect. The case seems
sturdy, and the wires, particularly the antenna male &
female leads are of a very good quality. Instructions are
clear, and adapters to allow connection to existing fused
power supply are included. The power and earth wires around
5 feet long, the 3.5mm jack lead is around 6 feet long,
although the antenna connectors are short, it is designed to
be located near where the antenna leads enters the radio
itself. I did find also a short series of videos on youtube
showing one of these being fitted to a 1980�s BMW (FM
version). The only difficulty if there is one, and this
will vary from car to car, is the routing of wires etc. The
unit is designed for the very widely used �Motorola� type
aerial lead connectors, but adaptors are widely available
online for around �5 if your car or radio is fitted with a
different set up.

Unplug radio antenna from radio.
Plug RediRad into Radio antenna socket.
Plug Antenna lead into RediRad.
Electrical connection is one to an ignition controlled power
supply, and to earth.

That�s it, and you are left with a lead (with a 3.5mm jack)
to plug into whatever you would like to play. I have placed
the unit in my car behind the facia just on top of the radio
itself, secured with cable ties (again included in the
pack). Connect up the player, and tune in on the radio to
1000KHz (the �10� position on some radios, or 300 metres.) I
have tried an mp3 player, Nokia smartphone and an iphone,
and all work fine.

Available for positive & negative earth cars, 6 or 12v, and
there is an FM version for cars fitted with FM radio. The
sound quality is as good as the radio amp & speaker, and I
like the tone of modern music on my cars single 6� speaker.
Not just for music; plug in your smartphone and you have
effectively got a hands free installation, (and in my car
the unused ashtray is the perfect cradle for a phone) with
the inbound call being heard through the radio speaker(s),
as you would with a modern hands free system, and if you
want to use the satnav on a phone, again, it will play
through the radio.–
John & Tigger (3.4 Mk 2 Auto 1966)
Neston, Cheshire., United Kingdom
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