[s-type] Heater Control Valve

I mentioned that I was getting heat on the left (driver’s)
side but not on the right (passenger’s) side of my 2000 3.0
S-type.
I tried jumping power to the two solenoids on the heater
control valve. One made a noise and one didn’t.
So I removed it and tried to take it apart, thought maybe it
just needs cleaning. Two screw heads broke off (T-10 Torx),
so I decided to buy a new one. It was a Bosch valve.
Most of my usual parts sources had no listing for S-Type,
but one had the Bosch part and an aftermarket alternative
called Matrix. So I checked Lincoln LS and it also uses the
same Matrix and there were several other choices.
Advance Auto Parts had the FactoryAir 4Seasons model 74009
in stock at $189 and I had a $20 off coupon. It is virtually
identical to the Bosch, but with Phillips head instead of
Torx head screws.

To remove it you need big pliers, 8 & 10mm socket wrenches:
Drain the radiator with a 3/8’’ hose on the petcock, 8mm
Allen wrench.
Disconnect top hose at radiator and swing it out of the way.
Remove screw holding air conditioning dryer with 8mm socket
and swing it out of the way.
Electrical connector has a red plastic retainer part you
first slide upwards, then the connector will pull off.
Disconnect 2 hoses at water pump end.
Disconnect small hose at throttle body.
Disconnect 3 hoses with quick-connect fittings by squeezing
the tapered white plastic clips, you may have to rotate the
hose fitting a bit, but it should pop off.
Remove long screw under rubber mounting (fender side) with
10mm socket.
Loosen nut under rubber mounting (radiator side) with 10mm,
no need to remove it completely.
Valve now comes out with all 5 hoses attached.
Attach the hoses to the new valve in the same orientation
before you try to put it in.
The quick-connect fittings have 2 rubber o-rings and a
plastic retainer ring inside between them, be sure they are
properly in place.
I left the small hose off the throttle body as a vent until
the system was mostly filled.

Autopsy on the old valve showed rust and burned solenoids.
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XK120 FHC, Mark V saloon, XJ12L Series II, S-Type 3.0
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In reply to a message from Rob Reilly sent Wed 7 Nov 2012:

Hi Rob - I have the same expierience with both sides. There was
water in the solenoid and there were bits of black plastic,
probably from a broken T-tube on the hose from inlet to reservoir.
It happened a couple of days before it went all cold.
The new valve from British Parts is a Bosch.
Now we are warm again.
Leo, 3.0, 1999.–
LeoN - Denmark
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