Greetings gentlemen,
I am well into converting my series one 2+2 from 3 sp automatic to 4 speed manual.
I have purchased all of the original bits to make it correct for a '66 2+2 model had it come from the factory with a Manual Transmission. In preparing to reinstall the engine and transmission, I am trying to create the opening for the gear stick using the correct console. My problem arrises from the fact that the front of the body tunnel has a dome-like bulge at the firewall atop the tunnel, which blocks the console from being able to bolt up to the firewall. The bulge extends wider than the console flange, so simply cutting room for the console would leave large gaps on both sides.
I am hoping one or more of you have tackled this issue before and can offer suggestions.
My questions include: Does the tunnel need to be cut away at all? I understand that the automatics have a larger tunnel, so perhaps it doesn’t need to be cut away like the later models.
If not I could cut the console to fit the bulging dome shape and seal around it, then cut a hole for the shifter. If the tunnel has to be cut for the transmission to fit, how have you handled the rounded bulge that is in the way. I’m attaching a photo to illustrate my issue. I tend to avoid altering a car in a way that would make it none reversible, so minimal cutting would be my preference.
Why am I swapping? The tranny that was in it was a later model automatic, so was not correct anyway.
I also much prefer a manual transmission in a vintage car and I drive my cars - so the driving experience is high on my list of priorities.
I recently did this and I can assure you that the tunnel does not need to be cut to accomodate the console. You may need to do that to accomodate the new transmission top, but not the console. I simple reupholstered mine after contouring the metal on the console to the tunnel. Not alot of cutting involved. I did have to make another radio console though which was a nice weekend project.
Thank you Mark. Maybe I’m using the wrong term, what the originality guide calls a console is the metal top that covers the transmission. But on a series 1 automatic, the tunnel isn’t open. I understand that in later years all were open and had a detachable metal top or what the book calls a console.
Was your tunnel open ? And if not, did you use the cover so it would look stock? I’m considering contouring the cover to fit on top of the tunnel.
I’m actually helping Jim on this project…The actual questions is can we simply cut a hole out of the top of the tunnel just for the gearshift or do we need to cut the whole top of the tunnel off and bolt down a removable cover? When I made the swap on my Series 3 roadster, it had a tunnel cover where I simply swapped it out for a manual version. As Jim mentions, on his Series 1, it has not such cover at all. thanks, JS
Back in 1996 I did not trim the original S1 automatic console, I bought a manual S1 console from UK together with a manual 2+2 gearbox tunnel cover. (And a radio facia the same as all S1 non-automatic 4.2’s)
ptelivou, That looks great! How did you deal with the hump at the firewall? I just test fit my parts, and the only issue appears to be the tunnel cover where it meets the firewall. In this photo, the tunnel cover is sitting atop the bulge at the fire wall so the radio plinth would not fit. I’ve about decided to just cut the radius at the lower front of the cover for a proper fit. (Well, there’s also the issue of refurbishing the parts)
Oh, Got it. Yes, I cut a hole in the tunnel. I then welded a flange on the perimeter of the cut piece then screwed it in with catch type removable fasteners. Fits like a glove. Ill see if I have a photo or two
Not pretty but it did the trick. I installed overdrive so I wanted a removable plate so I could get at things. Needed access to overdrive switch and reverser lamp switch. It is essentailly horse shoe shaped with a flange attached so I could set it back on the tunnel without it dropping in Simply put I cut it too big at first. I then used a cover console cover from SNG Barrett (Plastic) the inside of which was the foam material that is used in standard Etypes.
Very helpful, thank you! I think it’s wise to have access. I will likely us the S1 manual cover to cover the opening. I’ll adapt the front to fit. Your picks showing how much will be above the tunnel is very helpful.
I have photos somewhere, but they were taken 27 years ago so I realized that they were before digital cameras and apparently I haven’t scanned them or couldn’t find them on my laptop anyways.
To make your future life easier do not use any padding between the tunnel and the radio console so you can get the instrument panel to open / tilt and make sure it opens enough for you to be able to change the fuses etc.
I used a manual 2+2 metal gearbox tunnel cover under the console and made sure it fit well.
(some covers are fiberglass) Also I used the wiring and relay for the inhibitor switch from the automatic to power the overdrive solenoid, easy and worked like a charm. The two switches you see in the S1 manual radio facia on my ex car (#1E76372BW) were for the overdrive and a fan override switch (in case the otter switch failed, or in case I just wanted to be sure the fan was running).
I just ordered a fiberglass S1 2+2 cover from SNG today. I decided to save the OE steel one I have for somebody using for a restoration - there are not many floating around for series 1. I don’t like destroying original parts when I can destroy a reproduction - as long as I can sell the old one. I was going to ask about those switches - makes sense! Thank you for your efforts and advice!
In my ex car I did not even need to drill a new hole in the steel gearbox tunnel cover. YMMV. Of course I needed to trim the opening the PO had cut in the automatic transmission tunnel.
Have been saving bits of info/images for when the time comes and came across this “cut” photo album, that may be of help for the 2+2 auto-to-manual conversion,
