I started on this back in early Feb, then got busy with family things, then this virus appeared and shut everything down so I finally got to work on it this weekend. Mine was a little Frankenstein’d with a 3.8 header tank and the bypass fitting removed from the radiator. It worked, just not correct. I replaced the header tank, bracket, tie bars, fan motor and fan (cool cat), and all the rubber mounts. I painted the shroud, and radiator with it off. I had a radiator shop solder in a bypass fitting (did a great job). I was not impressed with the fitment of the header tank. The mounting holes did not mach the bracket or tie bars. The were off by ~3/32, so I had to do some fabrication of my own. I have everything back together, just need to fill it with fluid (I think that is still available at Walmart). One of the biggest pains in the arse was installing that bottom hose. I wish someone just made a full rubber replacement so I could ditch the pipe.
A lower hose replacement without the metal pipe would have to be reinforced to prevent collapsing- and that is not difficult to do with a spring. But when I replaced mine, the pipe was not the problem. My problem was the new hose was slightly too small to fit over the radiator outlet. I tried lubing it up, still too tight. Finally I heated it up with a hair dryer and I could then just get it over the radiator outlet.
Your wish has been answered! I just replaced both lower rad hoses with a 1-piece hose from Gates/ACDelco as shown here:
Of course it’s for another application (Dodge Ram truck) but it fits OK - it just needed to be shortened by a couple of inches at the rad end. It eliminates 2 hose clamps and the connector pipe. Part # is Gates 22082 or ACDelco 22294M complete with internal spring sourced from a FLAPS.
I recommend water for the first fill. That way you can leak all over no prob. Then when the leaks are gone, switch to 50-50 coolant.
Like that Dodge lower hose. Might try one.
Dodge to the rescue. Funny I was actually thinking about going to the auto parts store with the pipe and finding something that was close. Now my hands and arms are covered in bruises. Great info.
Here is what I did. I fitted the upper hose first (cut about an inch off it), then pushed the pipe into the hose (this was the worst part as there is not much wiggle room). I used water to aid with the install. I had about 0.5 in between the pipe and the radiator fitting. Put the lower hose on the pipe then wiggled it down over the radiator. These hoses were part of the hose kit I had ordered from Welsh. Need to fill it, hopefully no leaks, or at lease acceptable leaks.
Gary thanks very much for the info. Lower hose replacement is in my near future. I still remember from years ago what a pain it was to replace that 2 piece hose.
68 E-type FHC
Hi, A while back I was able to pick up on EBay 4 NOS hoses, after having a hardtime fitting on a new replacement. Well, as with most things, the NOS hoses fit on easily as they have a very definite contour the enables them to fit onto both the pipe and radiator. Nothing like NOS! Yes the rubber is pliable and much better made than the reproduction hoses of today.
Fluid filled, fired up her and ran up to temp, fan kicked on rotating in the right direction (had a 50/50 chance). It is much quieter than the old one with much better flow. She’s back on the road. No leaks other than a minor one at the drain plug. Will just need to tighten it a bit more.hopefully.
I just tried the Gates 22082 on my '67 Series 1 OTS. The tip was posted literally 1 hour after I ordered the replacement hoses from SNG.
However, for me the hose doesn’t quite work. I shortened it a couple inches, but at the section where the hose bends down to meet the lower radiator outlet, the bend is not quite right and/or the hose is too thick in section. It fouls on the sharp edge of the radiator shroud and comes close to the blades of the Coolcat fan.
If I twist it to get a little clearance from the shroud, the sway bar “dents” the hose as it presses on it. I’m worried what would happen hitting bumps. With the stock setup, the section that might contact is metal so I see little risk with that, not to mention there is a lot more clearance.
Fit of Gates 22082
Fit of original 3 piece setup (SNG Barratt replacement rubber sections)
Spatial visualization isn’t my strong point, so maybe shortening it further would permit the necessary clearance, but I didn’t want to chop a still usable hose up any further. Could be the construction tolerances of these cars may let it work for some but not others?
If someone tells me cutting another inch or two will yield clearance, I’ll give it a try. (I have a 4 post lift so putting this hose in isn’t as torturous as it may be working off jackstands.)
Some comparison pics:
Original 3 piece setup and intact Gates 22082
Original laid over Gates 22082
Gates 22082 after chopping