Getting close to reinstall S1 '66 fhc bonnet, do both these support brackets look right?
Thanks
Patrick
'66 fhc
Yes. Looks like you have an issue with the pivot rivet though. I had the same issue and replaced them with a stainless AN spec bolt of the correct grip length from Aircraft Spruce.
Steve,
thanks for your reply. Do you have a pic of the fix ?
Patrick
'66 Patrick
Steve,
Thanks for your reply. Do you have a pic of the fix ?
Patrick
'66 Patrick
Here’s a recent photo of my counter balance unit, but not sure how much that helps. To repair the broken rivet, you simply remove the remains of the rivet and replace it with a 5/16” diameter bolt. As you don’t want threads in the pivot (bearing) area, you will want to find a suitable AN bolt (Aircraft Spruce has them in stainless) or shoulder bolt. Looking at my photo I’m reminded I actually used a 5/16” stainless shoulder bolt in my last hinge rebuild. The grip length of the AN bolt or the shoulder bolt should be about 5/16”, but you will want to measure the thickness of your actual parts to be sure. I placed a thin nylon shim washer (about .010” I think) between the halves to reduce friction and to protect the hinge paint.
If you are unfamiliar with fastener terms and types, I would highly recommend Carroll Smith’s Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook …https://www.amazon.com/Fasteners-Plumbing-Handbook-Motorbooks…/0879384069
Steve,
Could you repost the pic, it’s not showing. I’m ok on the SAE fine and course, and metric of course but Pipe Threads and -AN I lack experience. For example, at NAPA, for a brake SW, the tech notes it’s for a Jag '66 but it’s “pipe thread”. So I asked, are the brake lines to and from the brake SW pipe thread and he said he thinks so. I gauge checked and he was wrong.
I always thought SAE shared dia and thread-pitch with -AN but not with pipe thread. Thus 3/8 fine is not pipe-thread pitch (long story re my skid loader).
The PO has a 5/16th bolts on passenger side (pivot) but on driver side it’s a non sleeved stud sticking out. I’ll try compressing it out and replace with bolt/nut. Opps, I re-read your post, now I’m confused (again) why no threads at the pivot hole/bore on bonnet support frame ? I’ll try Ace for “shoulder bolts”.
Thanks for your help,
Patrick
'66 FHC
All looks well on my end, so if you don’t see the photo it may be due to a spam filter or such on your end.
Steve,
PO had minor front shunt and maybe that’s what broke off one side’s pivot bolt. Here is pic of the undamaged side pivot bolt and a pic of the bonnet side broken pivot bolt.
Patrick
'66 fhc
Just re examined spring loaded bracket and both brackets have sheared off pivot stud, which are not listed in parts book. Not sure what unbroken stud looks like but it appears it was pressed into bracket; I’ll try using a socket and c-clamp to remove broken stud.
Patrick
'66 fhc
Here are pictures of both sides of an intact balance link.
The top picture shows what you should have in the side that has popped lose on your balance link; a washer and the expanded head of the rivet. The bottom photo shows the other side.
The pin doesn’t look to be a rivet in the traditional sense of it being a fastener with no threads and a head on one end that holds two pieces together by being flattened and expanded on the non-head end. I think that it is actually a pin with a head on it that is a friction fit into the side of the link in which your pin still resides. The hole in the other arm, he one that is free of your pin, is slightly larger in diameter than the pin. The washer you are missing is a friction fit on the pin and is what holds the two pieces together. Once assembled the pinned connection is probably compressed in a hydraulic press to expand the ends a bit to ensure a tight connection.
If you can find a washer that fits tightly on the pin and have access to a hydraulic press or if you own a hammer and anvil you can probably put yours back together. Remember there is not much force trying to separate the two pieces. The main forces are shear forces on the pin.
Hi Patrick,
The fixings on mine are a slightly different design than John’s; mine are off a 65 FHC.
The first picture is my original unbroken one.
I had the same problem as you on one of mine and I turned down the shank of a bolt on my lathe. it is simply peened over within the hole, but I added some MIG weld and ground it flush to be on the safe side. (I don’t seem to have a picture of the peened side).
I made up a copper washer to sit between the two parts as per original.
If you haven’t got a lathe, I see no reason why you couldn’t turn down a bolt slightly larger than the hole in a drill and grind it down with a file.
Paul
Patrick,
I have just re-looked at your picture and it would appear that the fixing is still there; I don’t think it is broken as such.
The fixing you have, should pivot in the hole ( it has probably become seized and this is what pulled it out) and if you put a thin washer like I did and push it back into the hole and peen it over and possibly weld it too, it should be fine.
Paul
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Thanks Steve, John and Paul,
I just checked and both rivets are still onboard. Steve removed his rivets and replaced with shouldered bolts.
The tip of my rivets is slightly lipped and a copper washer I found nearby doesn’t come close to refitting back onto that rivet. I should remove the brackets and see if a macine shop can reestablish things together.
Thanks,
Pstrick
'66 fhc
Paul,
Is the rivet itself supposed to rotate or the spring loaded hinge bracket that rotates on a fixed rivet ?
Patrick
'66 fhc
I reexamined mine and found that the pin in question has been reworked by a PO. Both pivot points should look like the pivot point on the left in the first picture I posted. In my case the PO substituted a thinner washer and peened down the shank of the pin to lock it in place.
The rivet is fixed to the short spring loaded bracket.
In my picture the depression at the top is the fixed point and the long curved bar hinges around the rivet.
Paul