I posted last week about my mystery window shattered event. I pulled the panel today which was relatively easy and what I found behind the panel was sheet metal in the door frame and not a lot of access. The good news is the roll mechanism seems to be working fine. What is not clear is how you would actually refit a new window into the metal channel. I have seen some posts on this. Is there a best method for this. Seems it would be a challenge to pull the entire frame out of the door. Also in order to remove all the glass in the bottom of the door I presume I would have to drill out the rivets on the black piece which I am not sure what purpose it serves in order to access the broken glass. Below are some pics of mine.
Hmm, I guess the 3.8s don’t have that panel cause mine doesn’t have it. I don’t think there are holes for it either. But yeah, unless you can stick a vacuum wand in there I don’t see how you’d get the shards out. No biggie to drill out and replace pop rivets.
The OTS cars have a regulator limiter screwed to the roller channel that is only accessible through that hole. I’d guess the FHC doesn’t need that part since its travel is limited by the upper frame. Are you able to roll the glass channel up to the point where the wheels fall out? There is a spring loaded bar on mine that has to be pried back and then it disengages fully.
Getting it in however…you’ll need to hear from someone with an FHC. I couldn’t speculate. Actually I could, you probably have to undo the frame at the top and at the bottom and at least lift it enough to get the glass in, but not necessarily entirely remove it.
I had the same problem on my S1 2+2…shattered glass. I removed that small riveted panel to access the broken glass pieces. No big deal and easy to refit. However, I have yet to try and replace the glass as it isn’t obvious how to. I am guessing that the chrome frame needs to be removed/lifted. Looking forward to replies on this stream.
I think you are right Erica
Skene,
Those panels are supposed to be removable, and are attached with small sheet metal screws originally. Now that the holes were drilled out for blind rivets, it’s not likely you can find a sheet metal screw that has a head small enough but if you can replace with screws. If not replace with rivets.
To replace the glass, the window frame must come out of the door and then once it’s on the bench, remove the glass channel from the frame (comes out the bottom of the rails). Clear all glass remaining from the channel which may require some work with a pointed tool and a hammer. Install the new glass into the channel with glass setting tape. Much care must be taken to install the channel onto the glass in the same position it was to prevent fouling on the door frame and window winder / door latch mechanisms. Take measurements before removing the remants.
Thanks for the info. It would have seemed logical that the panel would be held in with screws and not rivets. Unfortunately there is not enough remaining from the original window to get any position reference on the channel. When you pull the frame out do you have to loosen the 4 screws that hold in the roller assembly or is that not in the way. I guess once I remove that black panel it might be more clear what needs to happen.
Skene,
Once the window frame is loose from the door the frame roll the window all the way up and continue to lifted the frame up out of the door slightly so the rollers will come out of the ends of their tracks on the window channel. Once they are out, you can pull the frame and glass out all the way.
To remove the frame remove the bolt/nut on the two brackets on each lower end of the frame and remove the screws and shims (taking note of how many and where they are) on the lip that attaches to the top of the door itself.
Thanks John for the info. This helps a lot. I plan to take it apart this weekend. Will post my experience.
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I pulled the channel off and have removed the frame and vacuumed out all the broken glass. It was not too difficult. I have started to replace all the rubber which was in bad shape but am still waiting on the glass. The way the glass was held into the original channel looks like it was glued in an adjacent section forcing a pressed fit to the glass. I should take a pic of it as it is a little strange. I have not tried to chip out the old glass yet. I do have a couple of questions regarding adhesive for the window to the channel and the felt to the frame. Any input from experience would be appreciated. I can see the re-installation of the glass will be a challenge as the glass/channel/frame will need to be placed back in the door as one unit, specifically getting the channel back on the roller assembly.
Below is a pic of my door in its current state.
I first used (tried to use…) the flat felt glued into the chrome plated brass frame. First off it’s hard to get even so it isn’t twisted and consequently sticking proud of the channel. Next, the “kit” which came with all the weatherstrips didn’t have long enough sections. Fail on two levels, so got the preformed u-type channel from SNG and glued it in with 3M black weatherstrip adhesive. This worked well - the glass will wind a little tight, however, and it may not be “stock” or original to earlier cars (or later, for that matter).
Next it will seem impossible to get the rollers engaged when you put the assembly back into the door - but it does go in without extreme drama. I did have my mechanically talented wife assist, however.
By all means put new belt line rubber on as those are all most certainly rotted out.
If you use window tape to mount the glass be aware it is available in more than one thickness.
I used glass setting tape. It’s made of soft butyl rubber. You just wrap it around the glass, wet it up with soapy water and press/tap the channel over it. The trim the excess with a razor. Ultimately it could be set with anything sticky. It’s hidden inside the door.
It’s not that hard getting the channel onto the regulator wheels. Note the spring loaded bar across the wheels. You just pull that inward and it exposes the wheels so they fall into the roller channel. It would be easier with an extra set of hands though to hold the frame/glass assembly while you press the bar in.
A month ago I had the drivers window on my coupe pull out of the channel that holds it. An examination of the channel showed it had been a problem over the years for p.o’s with evidence of old glass setting tape and clear silicone sealant being used. I went to several glass shops locally and asked for the tape and was greeted with a “Huh What’s that?” It’s available on line for a cost is no object price, so I used black urethane - the same stuff they use to set windshields today. Worked well - doubt if I’ll have more problems with it.
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Yup 3m window weld, great stuff. It’s a little nasty on the removal but not that bad.
what I used was to set the side window in its channel was Tremco 440 glazing tape, which is probably similar to what others mentioned and very good stuff. No problems in the folowing18 years.
At the same time, I also replaced the felt lined U-channel in the chrome frame and both horizontal seals along the top of the door.
Skene,
3M weatherstrip adhesive is my choice too. I unfortunately used the yellow - so it shows at the edges, so use the black stuff for this. I was able to make the flat felt work but I made sure to have a press form of wood made up so i could press it into the channel before the glue set. Erica’a advice on how to get the rollers engaged into the track is right on, plus I find tipping the frame toward me while standing on the inside of the door allows the track to engage with the rollers easier too.
Glass setting tape comes in multiple thicknesses. I bought mine here: Bob Drake.com
Once you clean our the broken shards, scrape the channel clean and then measure the thickness of the opening and measure the thickness of the replacement glass supplied. The difference divided by 2 is the thickness you need to fill with the setting tape. I used a tape that was slightly oversized to assure a tight fit.
Thanks for all the info. Seems glass setting tape is the way to go for bonding the glass to the channel. I also purchased a new channel with the glass so will see what the fitment is like. I purchased felt and rubber from SNG since mine is all dry rotted (not original). As John mentioned it seems a jig is needed to press the felt into the frame so it sets true with the glue. I was thinking some plexiglass cut to fit the frame at the curve and corner that is close to the glass thickness. Below is a pic of my original channel, sort of a channel within a channel. The portion around the glass almost looks like a pressed fit as I mentioned before. I plan to try and chisel out the glass but will likely use the new one.
Maybe I just got luck with my channel felt, but it’s been in there almost 20 years with no glue and it never, ever comes loose. I don’t remember finding glue on the old stuff I removed either. It just lays nicely in the channel, even when the glass is down. I have to imagine that glue just makes installation harder.
I used this for the channels https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/parts/4e7e3f88-db5d-4422-b206-2ca739e5dd4f
All the parts lists seem to show felt, but this was what was in my 65 when I was restoring it and I am almost certain it was original to it.
SNG also do the setting tape https://www.sngbarratt.com/uk/#!/English/parts/671575d4-e700-46da-9289-ebd64abdbb3a
Paul
I think I got my chrome frame formed felt lined window U-channels from SC Parts in the UK and they just pushed in and stayed in place for then on. No gluing required.
Use some heat to soften the setting tape and it should come out pretty easily.