Simply wished to ask, and I am not probing for some miraculous answer.
This car is a keeper and as such will need to be rebuilt otherwise I will not be satisfied.
But I just may not have the time sadly…i hate to let it go. These cars are so rare and special.
It’s a series 1 with a series 3 motor.
Knocks are tricky to trace. Such a subtle thing I need to go out again and again to try and get a fresh idea of what I have or feel.
The car is a mess of vacuum leaks and although I have cleaned out fuel system, rebuilt carbs, there is much to do, however unrelated to knock condition.
Solid compression of 150 across all cylinders … although #5 yields 130. a spot of oil brings it up to 150.
Remove the lead to #5 and the sound goes away…
the ole tube to the ear seems to point to the sump area…so I’m thinking rod knock…but who knows. Hard to tell, it’s subtle, sound travels easily, etc.
this car has been sitting ages, is really in super shape otherwise … but it has been sitting within garage for ages. 2 lines from header tank blocked off by PO as radiator connection is welded shut and overflow tank has pinhole leak…
Some oil sludge existed prior to flush with vinegar, etc…either oil or bars crap.
I have 2 complete heads with the car. PO either replaced an d did not flush out cooling system (absolutely probable) or it is overheating or bars leak crap.
Won’t feel comfortable without new radiator, hoses, water pump…still deciding whether I should get a newer model or stay with this. This is a keeper that’s for sure, a bit of a dream car for me, but although eccentric and a die hard nut, as an everyday, well, I’m beginning to have second thoughts…
I patiently went through it all, lubed cylinders prior to turning, used seafoam a couple times to clean valves hopefully…if sticking. Shot sprays of water too while idling…completely cleaned fuel delivery.
Patiently and cautiously bringing her to life. I’m a perfectionist.
Simply searching for other thoughts.
Could it be a valve issue? Sticking valve? Would a head gasket issue cause this sound? Can a sticking valve remedy itself?
Again, this car has not been run for a long time.
I have driven it around the neighborhood for 15min or so only.
Compression 150 solid on all cylinders except #5 at 130. Oil added to cylinder brings it to 150.
Disconnect #5, sound disappears.
Oil pressure very good.
After running a while when attempt to start again seems like it is missing, as if incorrect spark plugs attached to wrong cylinder. Was it overheating? Can’t be sure. Infrared thermometer said no.
Sound disappears with increased revs.
First starting attempts yielded black plugs…they seemed wet actually. not fluffy black.
another new set of plugs reveals a cleaner running condition.
Is it a result of my processes, shooting water, using seafoam, etc to de-gunk the the cylinders and valves, or is it water in cylinders? I dunno.
Overheating past…before me. Possibly sat for a while with water in oil, ruined bearing?
Valve tappets ok. Clearances need to be rechecked since determining #5cylinder, but if anything they were all a bit too tight.
Attempted to use screwdriver to push down cylinder through hole to determine any rod slack. nothing.
Replaced oil, wires and plugs with high end NGK recommended in ETtype forum. very clean…too clean if I remember. Water in cylinder? dunno.
At 130psi should not be head gasket issue?
that’s all that comes to mind at moment to cover bases beforehand.
I have not yet replaced hoses and refused to run it until pump, radiator, hoses replaced.
When I drove it, and tested it idling, it did not overheat as per infrared thermometer. however it did not have thermostat I discovered!
Thermostat since installed, yet again, although pump seems ok, all gunk discovered makes me want to replace everything, and hoses are crunchy.
So I don’t know if it was removed due to overheating issues, which seems probable. Engine replaced rather recently per dumb PO.
Any thoughts appreciated.
I’m not searching for a magic answer, I simply have nobody to talk to who knows these cars like we do…