But before I glue it and regret mucking up my new glass, are there better options to the S2 windscreen mounted mirror? Was thinking of using a S1 mirror on the support rod. Or some other mirror and fabricating my own mount to the rod. And how stable or shake proof is the rod mounted mirror?
Anthony
My mirror sits too low to suit me, such that it effectively block a large part of my field of vision. To get around that I turned the mount on the button glued to the windscreen (see below picture). If I could remove and reglue that mounting button I’d put it higher on the windscreen. Be careful though because the higher you mount the mirror the more restricted your rear view will be.
I use an S1 mirror on my S2 and put the big Ralph Nader model in the big box o’spares that the next owner will get…
Vibration has not been a noticeable concern for me but roadtrips often mean a suitcase on the back and with that on there no center-mounted mirror is of much use.
My 69 OTS came with the mirror on the rod. I thought all rag tops had them, rod was meant to take the strain off the windshield frame when the top was latched?
FWIW. Mine is very stable, no shakes at all.
Thanks John, I’ll experiment with the height to see what you mean. I tend to agree with Geo’s idea of using the S1 rod mounted mirror. it looks better in my opinion. The mirror I have is a new S2 I purchased and it’s still in the box. But at the time I ordered it, I didn’t give it any thought… How would you ever get that mounting button off if you wanted to change it?
From the JCNA Series 2 E-Type Judges’ Guide (“ALL” means OTS, FHC & 2+2):
ALL: MIRRORS: (Updated December 2005) Gray plastic (Part No. C.33151) with brushed aluminum stem secured to boss (Part No. BD 32397) glued to windscreen - manufacturer’s name “WINGARD” and Made in England” on top windscreen screen side of plastic. See reference B, page 68, 69, & 71 for pictures, reference C, page C15 for part number
Piano wire? I watched the guy do it when he changed the windscreen glass on mine but do not recall what he used. I never re-installed it but I think everything was salvageable.
Thanks Bob, mine had the mirror mounted on the glass. I think I’ll order the S1 mirror assembly and nix the S2 mirror.
Thanks Geo, piano wire? That’s a new one for me. I was thinking they might have used something to soften the adhesive. As I mentioned, you and Bob have convinced me to use the S1 mirror.
Anthony
After installing my new windshield, I drove the car to a windshield shop and had their tech glue the mirror on. I sat in the driver’s seat and he held the mirror and mount up to the glass while I looked out the rear. I also had the measurement from the old glass and he glued it in almost the exact spot as the old mounting. They charged me $10.
FWIW Every other car I have owned that mirror was glue to glass failed every few years. Would buy kit and reglue. But not the E type, has remained solid for 48 years and counting!
Glenn
Heat gun. Go slow, you don’t want to crack the glass. My 69 came with the glued on mirror. I prefer the looks of the rod mounted one (and like being able to set it for my height), so I swapped it out. Just a few seconds with a heat gun took it off.
For what it is worth, the Series 2 rear view mirror was considered by almost everyone to be an abomination when the cars were new. I don’t remember seeing any that were not quickly removed by the original owners, so it is ironic that they are now being reinstalled in deference to originality. The salesman conveniently showed my father how the mirror could be popped off when he purchased his Series 2 in May 1969. He then walked to the parts department and bought an MGB mirror that he installed on the center bar that afternoon. It is still in the car 49 years later. Interestingly, he also mounted the mirror down low by the dash where it did not impair his field of vision. I tried moving it higher, but quickly found that he was right and moved it back to the spot it has always been. The original mirrors blocked the field of vision even more because they were enlarged to meet Federal requirements. Big mirrors and small windshields are not a good match as I am sure the Jaguar engineers were aware, but they met the letter of the Federal requirements so they were installed anyway. The MGB mirror in my Jag may not be original, but I would argue it was a “period accessory” and a necessary one.
Some of us that have owned MGBs moved the mirror to the lower position on the rod. This was only possible on the Mark I cars. The later cars had fixed mirror mounts to the windshield frame.( but they did have the tension rod and could use a Mark I mirror) One reason I did, was that the roll bar partially blocked rear view. I like my series two “large” mirror because I don’t have side mirrors and the larger mirror gives a wider view to the rear. A slight twist of the head in either direction completes my field of vision. No one has ever mentioned my “large” mirror at a car show or a cars and coffee.
Now, Federal requirements on series two rear tail lights, Don’t get me started.
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True. The tail lights on a Series 2 were unfortunate. But the mirror was much easier to change and almost everyone did.
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Try to find a SIII OTS mirror. It was rod mounted but the mounting was more substantial than the S1 and the mirror was much wider. It has been reported that some late S2 OTS cars actually came from the factory with S3 mirrors.
Richard Liggitt
Jeff, What are the tail lights that you installed? Can you provide photos with a close up of the installation?
They are Lucas Mark I MGB taillights turned 90 degrees. During my restoration I removed the outer brackets for the original lights and welded in captive nuts so the original lights could be bolted back on( if desired ) without paint or bodywork. I fabricated some new mounts and bolted on the MGB lights. I moved the ground behind the gas tank on the left side forward so I could access it and left long leads on the lights so they could be connected or disconnected outside the body shell.( no need to remove the gas tank to access) I trimmed the stainless “fill” panel to the bottom of the boot sheet metal and installed series 1 exhaust resonators. The license plate mount was trimmed and inverted and riveted back at the original mount holes.
I have some pictures that I will add here as soon as I find them.
This shows the brackets removed and the stainless panel trimmed. The license plate bracket is touching the lamp lens at the top, but the lens cover will come off if the bulb needs to be replaced. The two small holes to the right have the captive nuts welded behind them ( there is one at the top also) and the original bracket can be mounted back if need be. I used the original holes with a fabricated bracket at the inner mounting point 
Here is the new ground point. And if you remove the grommet, you can pull the connections outside the body.
Very clever. I wish you had been on the design team in 1969.