Your problem description is a bit unclear, Dennis…?
…but the relay is a worthwhile starting point. A blue wire connects the light switch to relay #56; with the light switch ‘on’ - this powers either ‘high’ beam (outer and inners), relay #56a blue/white, or ‘low’ beams (outers only), relay #56b blue/red.
With light switch on; check for power on these wires/connections.
The relay has permanent power, brown wire to #81a - this provides switching power to the relay and ‘flash’ function; ‘high’ beam power when the stalk switch is pulled at any time.
A ground wire, black, is connected to relay 31b - grounded by the stalk switch when pulled.
The relay has a latch function alternating between ‘high’ and ‘low’ beam by stalk switch action.
The wires from the relay goes to 4 fuses on the fuse box; ‘low’ beam left outer + ‘low’ beam right outer + ‘high’ beam left, inner and outer, + ‘high’ beam right, inner and outer.
Remember that ‘all 4 lights working’ means that ‘high’ beam is powered - brown to 56a (blue/white wires|will do that. Actually proving that there is nothing wrong with the lamps or fuses. ‘Low’ beam (white/red) only works the outer lamps - but both ‘high’ and ‘low’ beams is to be powered from the light switch blue…
Checkpoint for power at fuses, verifying that power is delivered properly through the relay…
Without a more complete list of the work done it’s uncertain what has gone wrong. It may just be the infamous ‘fiddle factor’; while working in an area you have inadvertently touched tender points. Light switch connections springs to mind - but the first step is checking power at the relay for clues…
The key is wire colours and connection points - the brown wire is always powered, to be treated with care, it is unfused…
xj6 85 Sov Europe (UK/NZ)