Got all the new timing chains fitted, bit of a nuisance getting the distributor off set in the correct position as per manual. Putting the gear on and off a few times and it was sorted.
The little brackets that hold the oil pump tubing that are bolted via the main cap bolts are different…had to swap 2 of them around… should have been more observant on dismantle. School boy error
Finally got the sump on. Yeahhh. Bottom end closed up. Processing: E43216A4-8F0B-4D94-B9FE-D9787731A947.jpeg… Processing: 8C9C0F74-C596-4920-845C-8744ED02AEB8.jpeg…
Got some other bits and pieces fitted, looking good, I know it’s paint on aluminium but it’s going to have to be like that as sea water atmosphere will make it corrode/ oxidise very quickly.
Next stage the CYLINDER HEAD…. looking forward to buttoning this lump up.
Rob
Frank
That’s a worrying comment as I haven’t fitted the CH yet, I believe that all valve timing is set up by having cams in correct alignment with piston at TDC. Then release inner cam sprocket and align with the bolts in cams.
Unless I’ve completely missed something
I think I know a previous owner of your boat who lived in Hullbridge in Essex.
EDITIt is not the same boat!! I have just been sent the photo below. This boat also had an XK140 engine and was done by Sabena Marine. However, the previous owner has told me that Sabena Marine built 100 boats to race on the Norfolk Broad some with the Jaguar engine others with smaller Ford engines.
Brian
Thanks very much for info/picture.
There was an article in the Times last year suggesting that old speed boats from 50s- 70s and even some 80s are becoming timeless classics and a collectable item
Although cars were neglected and abused over the years, huge amount of professionals and d.I.y. Owners bring them back to life……
But unfortunately over the years old boats never got the same amount of love, and therefore some models are very rare
This is a picture of my model from an old brochure I purchased ( EBay) it clearly shows my model. Arrow. 172 V. In the green upholstery as well
Showing the helm position to Port / Left, again something only done on very old boats. Bit like gear change and rear brake on a motorbike. Doesn’t really matter……but changed over time.
I’ve done very little with the hull of my boat so far, I did revamp the trailer as it was in need of attention.
I’ve cleared out all the wet rotten ply and flotation boxes, and just waiting for good weather and huge amounts of inspiration to get on with it…….
Cheers
Rob
Well the CH is finally on……yeah ( old picture from last week, It’s more progressed now).
All timed in and checked cam timing with the special tool, I rotated many times slowly as to check for sure, and I’m happy.
List of questions I have please,
Do I use ZDDP additive ? and with what oil ?
I have used SLICK on all bearing surfaces, I have new mains,rings and cam shaft bearings.
Priming the oil around the engine?
Is it just a case of turning it over, and letting the pump do the work or is there another way of pumping all around engine/ galleries.
There are some small holes in the bottom of the distributor, as I want to limit un wanted sparks within the engine bay, do you think it would be ok to block these holes up?
Use oil as specified by Jaguar, Rob; I don’t believe in additives - oil companies put in whatever is necessary…
With new bearing shells, and assuming, being in boat, it will not be used in extreme temperatures. I would suggest you initially use 10/40. I don’t know about ‘SLICK’ - it’s rather important that the oil flows freely through the bearings!
Just remove the spark plugs and spin the engine on the starter until you read oil pressure - that should prime everything - and verify, sort of, that oil is delivered.
The holes in the dist are ventilation and drain - and should not be blocked. Their placing at the bottom won’t transmit sparks - the ‘flash’ shield under the rotor will prevent sparking downwards…
Thank you Gentlemen
As for the engine timing sequence I found TDC in 2 ways, once with head off with dial gauge and spark plug stopper with head on.Mark 2 positions, split the difference and mark.
Inlet 1&6 were an easy fix as they were a straight swap.
4 exhaust is tight, but I can get 12 thou feeler in with a push, rather than a nice smooth motion.
I’m happy with the gaps, and my thinking is, as things speed up,they should get a fraction looser.
I will certainly be monitoring the gaps on all valves as I progress.
The SLICK I mentioned, is PERMATEX ULTRA SLICK, which I have on all bearing surfaces. It’s something I’ve been informed to do by my engineer mate.
‘TDC’ means one thing, and one thing only, Rob - it’s the engine set to the TDC mark on the crankshaft damper scale. At which stage the #1 and #6 pistons should be at the TDCs…
This is crucial for setting cam timing - no ‘ifs’ or ‘buts’; any deviation will cause valve mistiming, and possible valve interference/damage. Ignition timing is set to specs using the scale on the damper. so…??
Your valve clearances are within specs and should cause no problems
Just to add, Rob; it’s pertinent to check, with #1 and #6 pistons at their verified TDC, that the pointer on the damper is indeed at the TDC, ‘0’, mark. Sometimes deteriorating rubbers in the damper ‘offs’ the scale…
While a dial indicator does a good job of telling you about TDC, it is still going to be possible to be off by a degree or two, (which isn’t going to be a really huge deal). In the future, a better way to be sure you are really at a true TDC on cyl. #1 is to check (with the head off the engine), that pistons #2 and 3 are the same distance down from the top of the block using a depth gauge. Because the throws on the crank for #2 and 3 are rising/falling a lot for extremely minimal rotation while cyl #1 is at TDC, you will get a more accurate measurement. You can still possibly get a degree or two of rotation on the crank with questionable change in the dial indicator if you only measure cyl #1.
