Does anyone remember a vendor that sold an adapter designed to fit around the pin/jacking points on the car. You would remove the saddle on your floor jack and slip fit a steel adapter into the same hole with a 3/4” hole on top that would fit the jacking point pin.
I figure it was a safer way to distribute the weight off the jacking pin.
A piece of wood with a hole in the middle did the job fine for me.
Depends on the jack you have, but I used pine, it’s soft, so the jack’s saddle would “bite” on the wood and would not move.
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I did what Aristides did. 2x4 with a hole the a bit bigger than the jacking point; and the block of wood fits inside the jack it up bit - thingy… The business end of the Jack.
If jacking up the front or back end, I use a 2x4 BUT it’s the same width of the IRS bottom plate between the fulcrums on both sides. The front cross member also gets a 2x4 that is the width of the front crossmember. I typically don’t jack up by the front cross member (unless I’m in a hurry to get the front off the ground) for the simple reason my Jags leak oil, and the cross member tends to be a bit damp and slippery.
Get a hockey puck and drill a hole in the center. Works perfectly. Bought mine from Amazon. Also use them with jackstands when I jack under the front or rear crossmembers. Cheap and effective.
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Thanks for the suggestions, I’m due for a new low profile jack, so I was thinking I might want to start jacking the car up properly. Those jack pins don’t look the sturdiest. It seems like like once you get at the cross member at the front and get some jack stands under there not as intimidating as getting the ass end of the car up. I was going to wait till I could get it on a lift before I attempted to change out the rear springs and shocks but I might just attempt this feat in my garage. I have nothing better to do this summer.
I guess I’m also fabricating a wood support bracket to go under the rear differential??? I must admit I don’t fully trust the wood (pine) in case it splits.
What’s a 4000 lb car come crashing down on a persons head between friends to worry about anyway. LOL
I’m really starting to hate this inboard brake business.
Gary, over the winter my car got a set of lower profile tires than it had before, so I thought I should get a low profile long reach jack to make life easier. FWIW I bought a “Ranger” RFJ-3000LPF jack from Summit.
It will reach under to the cross-member without fouling the chin spoiler, and I am happy with it. Pumps up rapidly , too.
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Thanks Dave I’ll scope that one out.
You’ve got the cheapest adapter straight from Wayne Gretzky. Just grab two ice hockey pucks from eBay and drill the hole in the middle…
My jack hole, after removing the head, is actually just a little bit bigger than the pins on the car. I thought it was kinda cool when I found that out !
I actually have a signed Wayne Gretzky puck in this house somewhere from a Stanley Cup game. I guess if I can’t lay my hands on a puck after living in this part of the world , I’m in the wrong business!
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I guess I didn’t imagine the jack adapter there is a vendor Jaguar specialist (no affiliation )
that sells these jack adapters .
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Hockey pucks are cheaper and protect the base of the pin. And a lot of modern jacks don’t have easily removable plates or standard size holes.
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I had my car up on the lift last last night. I actually have two chunks of mahogany scrap bored out for the front lift points, and I tend to lift the rear up on the forward radius arm mounts. They aren’t perfectly flat but between the bracket and the rubber pad on the lift arm it has always seemed more stable than the rear jack points which dont have a lot of room around them to clear the lift pads.
Well last night I heard a little noise and the car actually slid a little, maybe a half inch, from where I put it on the LH rear radius arm mount. The lift arms lock when raised but there is a little play, and I think when that was taken up it stopped moving, which is probably why the car didn’t fall off the lift. Not a fun moment.
I never bothered drilling a hole, but I tend to use plywood when available because I don’t like the idea of the wood snapping in half. The pin is more than strong enough to support the car. A plastic puck is preferable.
The two post lift has soft rubber lift points so the pin sinks right in anyways. I also use the radius arm mounts in the rear. Safe unless the IRS falls out in which case nothing is safe. Haven’t had your problem yet but I always make sure the pads sit well before lifting it up more.
btw, I have a hunch when Superblack finally (whenever that is 
) makes it to the welding shop to take care of the rear suspension rust issue (in the “usual location”
– trailing radius arm connecting spot – on one side) he may also find that the jacking point is also rusted up, being adjacent to that area. 
If so, what do you do for same? I haven’t seen any sort of “repair kit” for those points online when rusted out. Do you cut a similar section out of a 'donor car", weld some “reinforcing” plates in that area (requiring the use of a flat, hydraulic floor jack instead of the factory one whenever jacking up/down), or what? 
Your welding shop will weld something up that does the job.
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