I’d like to up size the 12’’ electric pusher fan in my Mk2.
I’ve been looking at a 16’’ Spal fan that I think will fit
and roughly double the air flow. Does anyone in this forum
have first hand experience in fitting a 16’’ fan? FWIW,
this would be mounted in front of the A/C condensor.
Thanks.–
Dean / '63 Mk2 / '65 TR4 / '74 2000 GTV
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In reply to a message from Col. Bud sent Sat 23 Jan 2016:
I’m currently running a 14’’ Hayden electric pusher fan on my
3.8S and it fits with no problem and works quite well. Not
sure about a 16’’ one though.–
The original message included these comments:
I’d like to up size the 12’’ electric pusher fan in my Mk2.
I’ve been looking at a 16’’ Spal fan that I think will fit
In reply to a message from John Quilter sent Sat 23 Jan 2016:
I put a SPAL 16’’ (#30102048) in my '65.
I have an aluminum three core radiator and slotted the fan
directly to the fins with those plastic sticks. It fits
between the radiator and my trans oil cooler, and takes up
pretty much the entire width of the opening. It does fit
though.
Made a nice difference, with some other cooling mods, my car
runs pretty smoothly around 75*C no matter what the
conditions.–
Los Angeles, CA // '65 Mk2 3.8
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In reply to a message from Col. Bud sent Sat 23 Jan 2016:
Bud,
This is the most powerful 16’’ fan that fits a small saloon. It
mounts to the body in front of the radiator. Mine comes on at
198F and off at 193F and only runs when stationary in summer
traffic. I also use a cut down 16’’ plastic mechanical fan and
shroud, it moves more air and is much easier on the water pump
bearing. Everything you need to know to fit this is in the
archives.
Paul–
The original message included these comments:
I’d like to up size the 12’’ electric pusher fan in my Mk2.
I’ve been looking at a 16’’ Spal fan that I think will fit
and roughly double the air flow. Does anyone in this forum
In reply to a message from PS sent Sun 24 Jan 2016:
Thanks, guys. This is what I was looking for.
On the same topic of heat management, the issue with my
car is not overheating but rather vapor lock after being
parked for 10 or 20 minutes. A buddy of mine suggested
wrapping the exhaust manifolds and down pipes to cut the
heat load to the engine compartment. Anyone have
experience doing this?
In reply to a message from Col. Bud sent Sun 24 Jan 2016:
While vapor lock might be the cause of your dilemma, there may
be other causes. You might check the distributor and rotor
issues that can lead to similar dilemma. It can be there is no
spark when the distributor cap or rotor get heat soak when
parked after running. In addition to the easy check of spark
when the no-start condition is found, one also can put a squirt
of ether in the carbs which would verify the vapor lock if the
car started with the ether shot.
You may wish to read a couple of earlier threads. I have
experienced similar symptoms with NOS Lucas distributor cap and
rotors over the years.
One thread is in the Saloons section in Oct 2015, ‘‘Mark X
Cutting Out Issues’’ at http://forums.jag-lovers.org/tv.php3?
eNrLL8q0zcxLSa1QS7QtTszJz88rViu2NTQ3NjYyMrMC08ZGENrcHEpbQmhLiLi
xgQmENoHQJhbGVgAYmBVa
In reply to a message from Roger McWilliams sent Sun 24 Jan 2016:
Roger –
The car will start when heat soaked, but it stumbles badly
under throttle for the first few minutes, and then runs
just fine. I’ve concluded that the fuel in the carbs is
boiling, or at least so hot that the mixture is screwed
up. insulating the fuel line to the carbs didn’t help.
Parking with the hood open a few inches does help.
I just put in a time delay relay so the fan runs for a few
minutes after shut down in an effort to cool it off a bit
more, and am thinking a bigger fan will help that cooling.–
Dean / '63 Mk2 / '65 TR4 / '74 2000 GTV
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In reply to a message from Col. Bud sent Mon 25 Jan 2016:
I was having issues with heat soak after running as well,
engine would stumble and idle rough, temp gauge would run
way up and not come down.
So, I vented the inner fender on the driver side lower
triangle to let heat out. I also put serious heat-shield on
the firewall and under the hood insulate the sheetmetal from
absorbing heat.
Lastly, I had a motorcycle fabricator make a custom manifold
that runs out a hole in the passenger side inner fender to a
KN cone filter in the wheel well.
The combo of these, plus aluminum radiator and eFan, and I
no longer worry about the heat.–
Los Angeles, CA // '65 Mk2 3.8
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In reply to a message from TheoSoares sent Mon 25 Jan 2016:
Bud,
You can see a good image of the triangle mod at 1:09 in this video
Wrapping the exhaust manifolds works well, but it is a bit tricky
and requires a lot of wire or SS ties to hold the shapes. And it
doesn’t look very nice, but you can cover the manifolds with a XJ6
heat shield using standoff studs on the exhaust manifold studs.
Paul–
The original message included these comments:
I was having issues with heat soak after running as well,
In reply to a message from PS sent Mon 25 Jan 2016:
Paul –
Thanks. This thread has been hugely educational. The
triangle mod looks great, but I’m not looking to pull the
engine anytime soon. I will look into tne XJ6 heat shield.–
Dean / '63 Mk2 / '65 TR4 / '74 2000 GTV
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In reply to a message from Col. Bud sent Mon 25 Jan 2016:
Dean/Bud,
It is not an engine out job. You do it from the wheel well. Remove
the wheel, locate the triangle, draw a few vertical lines, drill
holes at the top and bottom, and use an air body saw (or other
tool) to connect the holes. Pry the back of the louvres out with
a wide flat tool like a putty knife. Start with the exhaust side.
Do you have the correct bellows type thermostat ?
Paul–
The original message included these comments:
triangle mod looks great, but I’m not looking to pull the
engine anytime soon. I will look into tne XJ6 heat shield.
In reply to a message from Col. Bud sent Mon 25 Jan 2016:
I and others have used a fuel pump cut off switch which we
activate about 45 seconds before shut down to use up all the
gas in the float bowls and sight gas. New gas on start up is
cool and eliminates the stumbling you mention. I also have
an E fan and zero mechanical fan that operates at certain
heat points and also is wired to operate on shut down. I
frequently come out to the car and find it is running for 10
minutes after shutdown and the heat draft under the car is
intense which would have otherwise resulted in heavy heat soak.
Gerard–
The original message included these comments:
The car will start when heat soaked, but it stumbles badly
under throttle for the first few minutes, and then runs
just fine. I’ve concluded that the fuel in the carbs is
In reply to a message from Col. Bud sent Sun 24 Jan 2016:
I mitigated this issue by having the electric cooling fan
run via a thermostat in the radiator fins and wiring it up
via a relay that permits it to cycle on and off even with
the ignition off until the engine compartment heat is
dissipated after shut down. All components were supplied by
Hayden, the maker of the fan.–
The original message included these comments:
On the same topic of heat management, the issue with my
car is not overheating but rather vapor lock after being
parked for 10 or 20 minutes. A buddy of mine suggested
In reply to a message from Col. Bud sent Sat 23 Jan 2016:
Dean,
I have fitted a SPAL 16’’ pusher fan (Model VA18-AP70/LL-86S
12V rated at 3450m�/h), to my '61 car, which is very
effective at cooling the car.
I have a 4.2 S3 motor but the 4.2 waterpump driven fan does
not fit in the space behind the rad.
I made custom fitting brackets to fit it in front of the
rad, and have a custom wiring harness (with relay) which
allows it to carry on running when the ignition is off -
however this particular fan is very noisy, so noisy that I
have to pull the fuse when I return home late at night
otherwise it will wake up my neighbours when it kicks in!
Pete.–
The original message included these comments:
I’d like to up size the 12’’ electric pusher fan in my Mk2.
I’ve been looking at a 16’’ Spal fan that I think will fit
and roughly double the air flow. Does anyone in this forum
have first hand experience in fitting a 16’’ fan? FWIW,
this would be mounted in front of the A/C condensor.
Thanks.
I used a combination of “running hot” solutions on my Mark II since I live in Texas.
-Raise the rear of the hood with 3/8" spacers when weather is hot- it is hardly noticeable .
-Use an 80"s XJ6 Exhaust Manifold cover and insulate the inside with Exhaust Wrap- small brackets will need to be fabricated.
Obtain a Marine Bilge exhaust Fan and mount to the Exhaust manifold side of the inner fender that has an appropriate opening.
-Have Louvers cut into the Hood.
Insure that all openings around the Radiator are covered and the Grille opening has no openings so the cold air can be forced into the Radiator.
Fabricate an Air Dam under the Bumper to force Air up into the Grille.
_ Of course, a pusher fan and a sound cooling system is important
The “Heat Soak” everyone talks about is because the engine compartment air is not displaced rapidly enough since the Engine is so deep and the Body panels come very close to the engine.
Rock Browning
Its been a journey. I’ve upgraded the fan, cut triangle vents in the fender wells, and installed a scoop that directs air from under the car up into the engine compartment. The engine never overheats, but I still get symptoms of vapor lock on hot days in slow traffic. I’m sure the A/C doesn’t help the situation. I’ll try the spacers and make sure the areas around the radiator are well sealed.
Related to electric fans but slightly different topic – anyone using stock generator with a high power electric fan? The amperage draw is quite high on some of the fans, just wonder if this creates any issues. I have the C48 35A generator. Car is currently WIP…but plan on fitting e-fan before it goes back on the road.
