[Saloon-lovers] Fitting Gear-reduction Starter to Mk2

I purchased a gear reduction starter from Rareelectrical on
Ebay for $125. It looks very good. Although there is no
maker’s mark on it, I would say it is Nippon Denso. Unlike
many gear reduction starters, the mounting flange is an
integral part of the cast housing.
I wonder if any other Saloons members have tried fitting
one of these to a Mk2? I find that, since the unit is not a
symmetrical cylinder like the original, the protruding motor
part interferes with the throttle linkage.
Although it is lighter and smaller than the original, the
shape makes it very difficult to get into place. I could not
pass it through any of the openings from below the engine. I
finally found that removing the distributor cap provided
passage from the front and under the carburetors.
I believe I will have to remove the throttle actuation
rod and modify it to move it over about 1/4’’ to clear the
starter.
Any other listers out there with experience with one of
these?
Ken Wallace, San Digeo, '62 Mk2 3.8–
kenowal
San Diego, California, United States
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In reply to a message from kenowal sent Mon 29 Dec 2014:

I understand that there are different models for manual or
automatic transmissions.
I got mine from Guftafson (sp?) and it went in fine.
P.–
Peter J. Smith, 1966 3.8S MOD
Carson City Nevada, United States
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I finished installing the gear reduction starter I posted
about a week ago. It is now working well and at this point
it seems to have been a good value.
In order to install it, I had to make a throttle linkage rod
that has a 3/8’’ jog in it to clear the motor on the starter.
With a gear reduction starter, the Bendix/solenoid is in the
position where the original starter was. The motor is
off-set to the side. Unfortunately, the motor was right
where the linkage passed from the firewall to the carburetors.
I found it was necessary to remove the carbs to get access
to the area. The top bolt on the starter is a bear to get
at, but you can do it from the top with a 9/16’’ socket on a
long handle. That lets you hold the bolt head from the bell
housing side while working on the nut on the starter side.
When installing the geared starter, you have the option of
using the original starter solenoid on the firewall, or
using the internal one in the starter. I used the one in the
starter because that way, you energize solenoid first. The
solenoid forces the pinion gear to engage the ring gear on
the flywheel. Only when the solenoid is fully extended do
the contacts inside the starter close and deliver power to
the motor. That way, the pinion is not spinning as it
approaches the stationary ring gear.

Ken Wallace,
62 Mk2, San Diego–
kenowal
San Diego, California, United States
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In reply to a message from carsoncitysmith sent Tue 30 Dec 2014:

There are different starters for auto vs manual.
That is due to different ring gears and so, different
starter pinon sizes.
I don’t think there is any difference in the throttle
linkage between auto and manual. Mine was an automatic years
ago.
Ken Wallace–
kenowal
San Diego, California, United States
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