[Saloon-lovers] Mark 10 rubber seals

Greetings one and all,

Micah and I are in the throes of rebuilding our Mark 10s - The name
“Battlestar Galactica” comes to mind when I am working on mine… Micah is
well ahead with his and doing an outstanding job - you could use the carbs
for mirrors :)) mine will be neat and tidy but won’t win prizes at the
local show for sure.

In the course of acquiring rubber seals I have come across a couple of
anomalies which other 10ers might wish to note. The #3 one was discovered by
Micah - thanks!

These anomalies have been brought to the attention of SNG Barratt (where the
parts were bought in my case).
SNG have responded with supply of new parts for #1 and #2 - thank you gents.
#3 is in process.

#1
SNG Barratt sell Rear quarterlight seals under Jag part BD.17072 (per the
Mark 10 parts book) but the labelling on the packets which arrive show “Mark
2”.
When I went to install them they were too short by 120mm.
I think someone has assumed Mark 10 rear quarterlights are the same as the
Mark 2. Wrong!

#2
A similar situation arises with the weather strip which sits inside the
window frame against the glass. Part BD.20010
My four strips arrived. The fronts were perfect. The ones for the rear
were… You guessed, too short!
The packet label shows “Mark 2” “S1” “S2”. I think the same someone has
tried to guess the strips are the same length front and back for Mark 10s.

Oh these darned Jags…

#3
More serious ('cos I have just re-installed the frames, winders, locks etc!)
The front quarterlight (NDV) seals arrived, look great and were quite simple
to install (thanks someone for the warm soapy water trick!).
I was quite proud of the job and the NDV felt quite snug in the seal.
Then Micah advises me that he has a problem with his. I check mine and yes,
same problem.
Within the main body of the seal, on the diagonal and across the base there
is, on the new ones, a plain rubber face - flat and smooth in which the NDV
glass moves.
On the originals there is a small flap on the surface. This flap engages
with the edge of the NDV glass and seals it.
On the new ones - no extra flap = no seal. Water will pour in.

I’ve written to SNG asking for new ones or possibly a refund. Otherwise I’ve
asked they tell the supplier to re-design the things so that new customers
won’t be disappointed (or misled!).

I would advise Mark2 owners thinking of purchasing new NDV seals to check
with SNG (or Manners or whoever) that the replica NDV seals are correctly
designed before purchasing. (if you’re lucky the seals might be old old
stock and true).

Other than these minor disasters we’re having fun re-discovering boxes full
of odd parts (why were the door handles in the box marked “power
steering”???) and plenty of spiders…

Neil

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In reply to a message from Neil Abbott sent Tue 18 Oct 2005:

BAS sells a rubber seal kit. I wonder if they could check to see
if their front quarterlight seals are correct. Actually, I have a
seal kit, but it might be a formidable task to locate it since a
recent move. Try Tony at:

and I’ll see what I can dig up…

Cheers!–
Will kill for Jaguar parts. Really! 95 XJR 73 XJ6 66Mk X
Vancouver, BC, Canada
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In reply to a message from FilthyCherry sent Mon 24 Oct 2005:

The ill-fitting front quarter light seals have the following
numbers cast into the inside surface of the seal: �RR68� and �RR69�
I assume that there is only one manufacturer of these seals for a
Mark X / 420G.

The only way I could see to correct the problem was to replace the
missing material. This is how I went about it:
Remove the entire window frame from the vehicle.
Put your quarterlight into the new seal so that you can determine
how great the voids are and note their locations.
Roughen up the surface of the seal with an exacto knife and
sandpaper. Make sure you get into the inside corner.
Clean the seal with brake clean or acetone.
Use a painters striping tape or electrical tape and tape off the
glass or quarterlight chrome frame. You can set your clearance by
using multiple layers of tape, but one layer worked well for me. I
also taped off the rubber seal on its outside edge so that I could
keep a clean line.
I taped off the seal in sections so that I was not sealing
everything at once. This is important step otherwise the window
will be stuck.
I used 3m �Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane, part number 051135-
08609, and ran a very thick bead of urethane along section I was
working on. Don�t be shy because it is much better to wipe of the
excess than have a void.
Install the quarterlight and close the latch. Very gently, push
down on the lip of the seal towards the chrome quarterlight window
frame to get the seal to lie at its normal position. You do not
want to push it too far or you will not be filling the void. Along
the edge where the just the glass of the quarterlight meets the
window seal, run your finger so that you have material just
covering the outside edge of the glass.
Wipe off the excess with your finger.
Let the window sit undisturbed for three or four days.
The next step can be a bit unnerving because at times you feel as
though you are going to break the glass. You will need to break the
window free from the urethane. The urethane will not stick to the
tape. So, peal back as much of the tape as you can. Slowly working
in different sections of the window, attempt to free it. Take your
time and be careful. Try to push on the quarterlight chrome frame
as much as possible.
Once it is free, tape off another section and repeat.

I have completed both front quarterlights and have them reinstalled
in the car. It is a bit tight to close and requires a little push
in the lower front of the window while pulling on the latch to get
it to close. The seal is now tight and there are no voids. Now,
since my restoration is not complete, I have yet to drive or wash
my car. I cannot guarantee that this is the ultimate fix for these
poorly designed seals. Since the seal is now custom fit to the
window, I think the result is better than original. I don�t mind
that the window is a bit difficult to close. I would rather have
this than wind whistling through or water dripping on my wood. I
can furnish pictures on request.–
The original message included these comments:

In reply to a message from Neil Abbott sent Tue 18 Oct 2005:
BAS sells a rubber seal kit. I wonder if they could check to see
if their front quarterlight seals are correct. Actually, I have a
seal kit, but it might be a formidable task to locate it since a
recent move. Try Tony at:
http://www.basjaguartrim.com/
and I’ll see what I can dig up…


Micah 1963 Mark X (351885BW)
California, United States
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In reply to a message from Micah W sent Tue 25 Oct 2005:

Micah,
Have you got some photos of this procedure? What size
gaps are you talking about? The whistling in the Mk II is
driving me mad!

Andrew–
The original message included these comments:

I taped off the seal in sections so that I was not sealing
everything at once. This is important step otherwise the window
will be stuck.
I used 3m �Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane, part number 051135-
08609, and ran a very thick bead of urethane along section I was
working on. Don�t be shy because it is much better to wipe of the


1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
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In reply to a message from JagWaugh sent Tue 25 Oct 2005:

Allan & Andrew,

Pictures are on their way to you in a seperate email. They are
large files. If you do not receive them, let me know.

The largest gaps were at the rounded corner and along the edge
where the bare glass met the rubber seal. These gaps were nearly
one eighth of an inch.–
The original message included these comments:

Have you got some photos of this procedure?  What size

gaps are you talking about? The whistling in the Mk II is
driving me mad!


Micah 1963 Mark X (351885BW)
California, United States
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In reply to a message from Micah W sent Wed 26 Oct 2005:

Micah,
Many thanks.

Andrew–
The original message included these comments:

Pictures are on their way to you in a seperate email. They are
large files. If you do not receive them, let me know.
The largest gaps were at the rounded corner and along the edge
where the bare glass met the rubber seal. These gaps were nearly
one eighth of an inch.


1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
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Just curious to see if after all this time anyone found a manufacturer of quality seals for Mk X’s
I’ve heard promising things about COH Baines as well as a manufacturer in Australia.