[Saloon-lovers] Otter switch bypass correct wiring diagram?

My otter switch and hisser function correctly but I want a
way to override it manually if it fails or if I want to save
fuel. I read in another thread that it is possible to fit a
double pole 3 way switch with a light to show when it is on
but could not find a wiring diagram, so I came up with one
myself, but I am a bit dim when it comes to wiring.

Will this work? follow the link below to the diagram.

http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1470351402

Or is there a better way. The one flaw I see with this
method is that the light will be on even if the hisser
itself fails. Not sure how to get around that.–
Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada
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In reply to a message from Nigels420G sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

That looks like it will work but is way to complicated. All you
need is a second wire to the otter switch to a switch that when
flipped goes to ground.–
The original message included these comments:

Will this work? follow the link below to the diagram.


George Camp
Columbia SC, United States
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In reply to a message from Nigels420G sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

Sorry Confusion!

Don’t follow the link it takes you to two albums and one of
them is the wrong diagram, I have tried to delete it 3 times
but the delete function obviously does not work for me, nor
is there a facility to edit posts, well not an obvious one
anyway.

Just click on the photo above that says this album is
relevant to this post…or words to this effect–
Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada
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In reply to a message from George Camp sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

Sure that’s good for only if the otter fails but not good if
you want to save fuel as the hisser will still remain on as
long as the temperature is not up to its preset level.–
The original message included these comments:

That looks like it will work but is way to complicated. All you
need is a second wire to the otter switch to a switch that when
flipped goes to ground.


Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada
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In reply to a message from Nigels420G sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

Ok but I have no idea why you would want to turn off the
enrichment device until it reached operating temps.–
The original message included these comments:

Sure that’s good for only if the otter fails but not good if
you want to save fuel as the hisser will still remain on as
long as the temperature is not up to its preset level.


George Camp
Columbia SC, United States
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Hi Nigel,

There is a problem with your circuit. Double-Pole Double-Throw switches
don’t work the way you are assuming. Referring to your drawing, the left
and right columns of terminals are never connected to each other. If you
put the switch in the upper position then terminals 1 and 2 will be
connected together. In the center (off) position no terminals are
connected. In the down position terminals 2 and 3 are connected together.
Since you don’t have anything connected to either terminal 2 there will
never be anything connected to anything else in your circuit. Search for
“DPDT switch diagram” to see how the switches are connected internally.

Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2

My otter switch and hisser function correctly but I want a
way to override it manually if it fails or if I want to save
fuel. I read in another thread that it is possible to fit a
double pole 3 way switch with a light to show when it is on
but could not find a wiring diagram, so I came up with one
myself, but I am a bit dim when it comes to wiring.

Will this work? follow the link below to the diagram.

http://www.jag-lovers.org/v.htm?1470351402

Or is there a better way. The one flaw I see with this
method is that the light will be on even if the hisser
itself fails. Not sure how to get around that.


Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada

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In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

Hi Mike

I didn’t realize that so thanks for the info.I will have
another look at this.–
Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada
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In reply to a message from Nigels420G sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

I am having a hard time understanding what you are talking
about.
What is a OTTER switch
What is a HISSER switch
never heard of these terms. Portland Oregon
Richard–
Richard Oliphant
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In reply to a message from George Camp sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

Hi George

My engine needs it to start but idles okay after about 10-15
seconds. From the end of my driveway I have a 40-50km/hour
down hill run of about 2kms through the houses so I
definitely don’t need the extra juice, its just a waste.–
The original message included these comments:

Ok but I have no idea why you would want to turn off the
enrichment device until it reached operating temps.


Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada
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In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

Hi Mike

I think I have got it now. Posting photos on this site is a
PITA and I can’t delete the wrong ones either. So I will
describe it have paper and pen at the ready, lol.

So the left bank is for the light only 1 and 3 are to ground
2 gets the wire from the bulb.

The right bank is for otter and hisser. 3 goes to ground, 2
to the hisser and 1 to the otter switch.

How does that sound?–
The original message included these comments:

There is a problem with your circuit. Double-Pole Double-Throw switches
don’t work the way you are assuming. Referring to your drawing, the left


Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada
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In reply to a message from Nigels420G sent Mon 8 Aug 2016:

Mike

Thinking about this some more I don’t need to use the left
bank at all do I. Keep the right bank as it is described in
my lats post and take the bulb lead to the right bank 2.

This way the light will not come on if the otter switch
fails and will stay on if the otter switch does not close.

Not so?–
Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada
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Hi Nigel,

Wiring the light the way you describe puts it in parallel with the solenoid
and will tell you when there is voltage across it. Make sure the light is
connected to switched power.

Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2

In reply to a message from Nigels420G sent Mon 8 Aug 2016:

Mike

Thinking about this some more I don’t need to use the left
bank at all do I. Keep the right bank as it is described in
my lats post and take the bulb lead to the right bank 2.

This way the light will not come on if the otter switch
fails and will stay on if the otter switch does not close.

Not so?

Nigels420G

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Hi Richard,

The Otter switch, made by Otter Controls LTD, is a thermostatically
controlled switch that is on when cold and off when hot. It controls the
electrically actuated Auxiliary Enrichment Device, otherwise known as the
Starting Carburetor or Hisser, after the sound it makes when activated.

Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2

In reply to a message from Nigels420G sent Fri 5 Aug 2016:

I am having a hard time understanding what you are talking
about.
What is a OTTER switch
What is a HISSER switch
never heard of these terms. Portland Oregon
Richard

Richard Oliphant

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In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Wed 10 Aug 2016:

Hi Mike

‘‘Make sure the light is
connected to switched power.’’

Not sure about this, did you mean fused power?

Nigel–
Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada
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Power that is only on when the ignition switch is on.

Mike Eck
New Jersey, USA
www.jaguarclock.com
'51 XK120 OTS, '62 3.8 MK2 MOD, '72 SIII E-Type 2+2

In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Wed 10 Aug 2016:

Hi Mike

‘‘Make sure the light is
connected to switched power.’’

Not sure about this, did you mean fused power?

Nigel

Nigels420G
Maple Bay, Canada

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In reply to a message from Mike Eck sent Thu 11 Aug 2016:

Wayyyyyyyyyyy too complicated.

Pull wire from otter switch; connect a new wire that runs to
under dash switch; run second wire from under dash switch to
otter switch; memorise forward or aft for on or off; I chose
aft for off.

Worry not about illuminated switches; you will soon get the
hang of it.–
John & Tigger (3.4 Mk 2 Auto 1966)
Neston, Cheshire., United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from Tigger sent Fri 12 Aug 2016:

I agree. I wouldn’t bother with the lamp. you can hear the
hisser click when you turn the ignition (or override) on, and
the hisser when it is operating.

In fact, I’ve never bothered to fit a switch on any of the cars
I’ve owned or worked on. If the hisser stays on too long, or
doesn’t go on at all, then I replace the switch or whatever it
is that isn’t right. While waiting for the parts to arrive I
just open the bonnet and ground the wire at the Otter before
starting - I’ve done this a couple of times on a rally or such
even though I had wire and a switch with me that I could have
jury rigged so I didn’t need to open the bonnet.

I still haven’t decided if I want to fit a manual choke to the
carbs, I have all the bits. This is an improvement (to my mind)
over the hisser, but it isn’t as if a properly functioning and
adjusted hisser doesn’t work at all.

Andrew–
The original message included these comments:

Wayyyyyyyyyyy too complicated.
Worry not about illuminated switches; you will soon get the
hang of it.


1968 3.8S
Zurich, Switzerland
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