[Saloon-lovers] Overdrive...again!

Hi All!
During my last drive I used the OD as I always did. Then
suddently it didn’t engage anymore.
Went to the mechanic and he checked the oil level (ok), the
electric connections and voltage (12 v. in engaging, 4/5 v.
in holding the gear) and the valve (ok).
At the end it seemed to be a ‘‘tired’’ solenoid coil that
doesn’t have enough strength to push the lever strongly
enough to let it engage. He said that the first culprit
could be the heat (I have SS exhaust) or a non perfect coil
(it is there since only two years).
My question is: do you stick with this explanation? Is this
something that someone of you has experienced too?
Thanks in advanced for all the tips you will share.
Giuseppe–
il conte '66 3.8 mk2 RHD MOD
Andria (Bari), Italy
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In reply to a message from il conte sent Mon 21 Jul 2014:

You should only ever have 12volts or zero volts is you are
measuring across the solenoid.–
The original message included these comments:

Went to the mechanic and he checked the oil level (ok), the
electric connections and voltage (12 v. in engaging, 4/5 v.
in holding the gear) and the valve (ok).


Phil.D 3.8 etype, XJR6, XK150 FHC, 2.2 diesel Xtype
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In reply to a message from il conte sent Mon 21 Jul 2014:

Just something to consider: the solenoid has two coils, a
pull in coil that draws high amperage and a hold in coil
that draws much less. The adjustment is critical as the
pull in coil needs to go open circuit and the hold in coil
needs to activate. If not, the solenoid will burn itself
out. A crude test can be made if you have a good ammeter on
the dash. With the car in the garage and the gearbox in
fourth gear with the engine off but the ignition on, the
ammeter should show high discharge when initially moving the
overdrive lever, then it should almost immediately show a
minimal discharge indicating only the hold in coil is operating.

You can test your excessive heat theory but running and
overdrive test on the road with the engine and exhaust
relatively cool but if there has been previous overheating
the solenoid may already be damaged.–
The original message included these comments:

electric connections and voltage (12 v. in engaging, 4/5 v.
in holding the gear) and the valve (ok).
At the end it seemed to be a ‘‘tired’’ solenoid coil that
doesn’t have enough strength to push the lever strongly
enough to let it engage. He said that the first culprit
could be the heat (I have SS exhaust) or a non perfect coil


John Quilter 1965 3.8S, 1951 MGTD, 1960 Morris ,1990 XJ6
Eugene, Oregon, United States
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In reply to a message from John Quilter sent Mon 21 Jul 2014:

These are tests that have been already done. Consider also
that I usually drive the car in OD 'cause I oftenly use it
on highways. If that was a matter wrong adjustment I’d have
burned the solenoid since long time (as I wronte it’s on
since two years). At the moment it still works but, even
getting a 12v. current supply, it seems to be not strong
enough to let the arm to move and engage freely as it
should. It seems a matter of weakness, that’s why the
mechanic was focusing his attention on the reliability of
the solenoid coil.
g.–
The original message included these comments:

Just something to consider: the solenoid has two coils, a
pull in coil that draws high amperage and a hold in coil
that draws much less. The adjustment is critical as the
pull in coil needs to go open circuit and the hold in coil
needs to activate. If not, the solenoid will burn itself
out. A crude test can be made if you have a good ammeter on
the dash. With the car in the garage and the gearbox in
fourth gear with the engine off but the ignition on, the
ammeter should show high discharge when initially moving the
overdrive lever, then it should almost immediately show a
minimal discharge indicating only the hold in coil is operating.


il conte '66 3.8 mk2 RHD MOD
Andria (Bari), Italy
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In reply to a message from il conte sent Tue 22 Jul 2014:

New solenoids are not very expensive to buy (not in the UK
anyway) and if you do buy new & fit, you could always wrap
the exhaust locally to the unit if you feel this could be
the source of the problem.
The actuating arm must be set up correctly, whichever way
you choose to go.

John.–
bedders, jaguar 340, Triumph Stag
North Lincolnshire, United Kingdom
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In reply to a message from bedders sent Tue 22 Jul 2014:

U P D A T I N G S
Fitted the new solenoid and set the actuating arm as per
manual.
Back on the road pourring like a cat and floating like a
butterfly!
As usual, thanks for all your suggestions and tips.
Giuseppe–
il conte '66 3.8 mk2 RHD MOD
Andria (Bari), Italy
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