[Saloon-lovers] Scuttle Vent Gasket

Saloons
1

Greetings
A question for those who have been there, done that. In order to cad
plate the scuttle vent grill I removed both the top and the grill. The
gasket was hanging down in the back and had never fit correctly since the
respray. Upon removing the rubber gasket I noted that one side was chamfered
while the other side was flat. The gasket was installed with the chamfered
side down. It would seem to me that the chamfer should be on top as it would
reduce the chance of the vent binding on the rubber.
Should the chamfer be on the glued side or the top side?
Cheers,
James Ross
MK2/340

[Commercial use of subscribers e-mail addresses prohibited.]==============================
To remove yourself from this list, go to


// list policy dictates that messages be trimmed

2

Hi James - I can’t help you with your question I’m afraid, but I think I saw
your 340 (Black?) flying down the Royal Oak - Pat Bay on ramp the other
day. I was sitting on the overpass. Poetry in motion as she glided around
the curve and accelerated down the ramp!

Paul Kerr
1966 Mark Ten (Blue)

[Commercial use of subscribers e-mail addresses prohibited.]==============================
To remove yourself from this list, go to


// list policy dictates that messages be trimmed

3

Greetings:
Thanks Paul for pointing that out to me. My original intent was to clean
up the scuttle vent screen. I am always amazed at how a simple half hour
project becomes a major partial restoration. There was overspray on the
underside of the flap and thruout the box with a touch of surface rust. So,
that has to be cleaned up and painted. The sccttle vent lid had two washers
as the rquired spacer. There doesn’t seem to be a mention of the spacers or
other parts in the manual or parts book but, it is mentioned in the S Type
manual and is of a similar configuration except for the vacuum control. My
question now is… what is the thickness of the scuttle vent spacer? I
don’t think that the washers were an oem Jaguar part. To clarify, the
washers are between the scuttle vent lid and the lifting arms.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
James Ross
MK2/340

[Commercial use of subscribers e-mail addresses prohibited.]==============================
To remove yourself from this list, go to


// list policy dictates that messages be trimmed

4

JAMES ROSS wrote,

The sccttle vent lid had two washers as the rquired spacer. There doesn’t
seem to be a mention of the spacers or other parts in the manual or parts
book but, it is mentioned in the S Type manual and is of a similar
configuration except for the vacuum control. My
question now is… what is the thickness of the scuttle vent spacer? I
don’t think that the washers were an oem Jaguar part. To clarify, the
washers are between the scuttle vent lid and the lifting arms.

Hello James,

The “lip” on the seals I have is on the opposite side of the “chamfer” and
the lip should be facing up (chamfer down), yes ?

For clarity sake, I will use the factory part names, there is no “spacer” in
the assembly. Each stud on the lid has two plain washers (# 10318, 0.75"OD,
0.265"ID, 0.060" thick),a distance piece ( # 7988, 0.310" OD, 0.200" ID,
0.215" tall), a “shake proof” washer and a nut. The purpose of the distance
piece is to prevent the lid’s sheet metal from buckling and pulling the stud
when you tighten the nut too much. If they are missing, find a piece of tube
or pipe and cut new ones. I think the part you are calling a “spacer” is the
first plain washer, but I can’t see it from here, hold it up to the screen.
The order is lid, washer, distance piece, washer, “shake proof” washer, nut.
You can use different thickness washers to adjust the fit.

I have been playing around with a heater motor mentioned on the E Type
list:

http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_view.php3?id=1034818641

Someone mention that it burned out the fan switch (one benefit of
procrastination), so I tested one and it indeed pulls twice the current and
blows much more air. I think I need to use a relay to save the switch, but
it looks like I’ll need two relays if I want two speeds. Any other idea?
Anyone know the value of the low speed resistor for the heater fan ? I know
it gets pretty hot, any alternatives? The fan cage is 1inch larger in
diameter, so it will take some cutting and an adapter, but it maybe a $14
solution to the “dog panting on your leg”
defroster . Any thoughts?

Paul Saltwick

[Commercial use of subscribers e-mail addresses prohibited.]==============================
To remove yourself from this list, go to


// list policy dictates that messages be trimmed

5

Hello James Ross,

I want to correct something in a prior post.

The assembly order for the scuttle vent is: lid, distance piece (your
spacer), plain washer, arm, plain washer, lock washer, nut. The distance
piece is 0.215" high, (same as the fan mounts), a little more than 3 of the
plain washers stacked. A hand vacuum pump really helps doing this job. You
can check the seal with a light in the heater box.

Paul Saltwick

[Commercial use of subscribers e-mail addresses prohibited.]==============================
To remove yourself from this list, go to


// list policy dictates that messages be trimmed

6

Greetings;
I have been away from my desk for a few days and have just received
Paul’s info re the assembly of the scuttle vent. Wonderful detail, Thanks.
Did you go out to your car and dismantle it or is the info readily
available. Please don’t tell me it is in the book as I did a somewhat brief
search and did not find the relevant details. Thanks again.
Cheers,
James Ross
MK2/340

[Commercial use of subscribers e-mail addresses prohibited.]==============================
To remove yourself from this list, go to


// list policy dictates that messages be trimmed

7

I know this is an old link but the most relèvent topic I can find re the scuttle vent cover and its gasket. What is the point of the chamfer in the gasket and should it be on the upper edge of the opening or closer to the bonnet ie lower edge? Also, without the gasket the cover when closed is flush with the bonnet and the rest of the metal. With the gasket it stands proud by about 3 mm. is that correct?
I know it is petty but I’d like to get it right.

Ian

8

Please could you use your experience of removing the grille and the vent cover to help me?

I need to get mine off the car but the screws that go through the grille will not move - do I just have to keep trying as I guess that is the way to get it off?

The reason I ask something apparently so obvious is that even if I got the screws undone there is no way I can see that there is sufficient room between the vent cover and the body for the grille to be removed.

9

Hi Robert
Not sure I can help because mine has no grille, just the vent cover which was not easy to get off because of overspray on the threads I went very slowly to ensure I didn’t snap off the bolts, half a turn then back off and repeat with WD40 till they came off. I see in the parts book that there should be a grille but no picture of it is on any plate I can find. I guess you just have to persevere and lubricate as mush as you can.

Ian