Has anyone put XJ SIII front brakes and suspension upright on a MK2?
Which axle should be used? If the SIII axle is used, can MK2 wire wheels
be used?
Thanks for any info
Ian
Toronto
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I did it, (series III uprights, axles, calipers and rotors) but my MK2 is not
yet on the road. To use the Series III rotors, you must use the Series III
axles because of the larger bearing ID on the inner bearing (In the rotor).
The uprights are a different overall height (about 1/2 - 5/8" shorter, as I
recall) and I reversed the upper A-frame (wishbone) mounts to keep the upper
and lower wishbones approximately parallel. I had to use the special headed
bolt used on the series III for the outside upper ball-joint mounting, as a
standard headed bolt would foul the rotor on full cramp. As it was, I had to
move all the castor shims to the forward (as I recall) position to avoid this
fouling. I don’t know how this will affect the handling (self-centering).
With all the camber shims removed (behind the upper wishbone mount), I still
had about 1 1/2 degrees of negative camber (due to slightly different offset
of the upper and lower balljoint shaft holes in the uprights), but this
should be acceptable and may help handling. If the placement of the castor
shims proves to adversely affect steering feel, it might be possible to limit
full cramp to avoid rotor fouling, as the MK2 has a very tight steering
circle stock (about 32’ , as opposed to 39-40’ on many curent FWD cars
(Camry, etc.). Also, you’ll have to have special brake hoses (or lines)
fabricated or use adapters , as the Series III has metric fittings while the
MK2 has SAE.
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Thanks again for all the info. I have tried using the SIII bolt on the
upper ball joint(outer hole) but have found it to be too short. How did
you get around this? The MKII upper a arms, shims, and packing piece are
about .5" wider than the SIII set up.
Thanks again
Ian
Mesutter@aol.com wrote:
I did it, (series III uprights, axles, calipers and rotors) but my MK2 is not
yet on the road. To use the Series III rotors, you must use the Series III
axles because of the larger bearing ID on the inner bearing (In the rotor).
The uprights are a different overall height (about 1/2 - 5/8" shorter, as I
recall) and I reversed the upper A-frame (wishbone) mounts to keep the upper
and lower wishbones approximately parallel. I had to use the special headed
bolt used on the series III for the outside upper ball-joint mounting, as a
standard headed bolt would foul the rotor on full cramp. As it was, I had to
move all the castor shims to the forward (as I recall) position to avoid this
fouling. I don’t know how this will affect the handling (self-centering).
With all the camber shims removed (behind the upper wishbone mount), I still
had about 1 1/2 degrees of negative camber (due to slightly different offset
of the upper and lower balljoint shaft holes in the uprights), but this
should be acceptable and may help handling. If the placement of the castor
shims proves to adversely affect steering feel, it might be possible to limit
full cramp to avoid rotor fouling, as the MK2 has a very tight steering
circle stock (about 32’ , as opposed to 39-40’ on many curent FWD cars
(Camry, etc.). Also, you’ll have to have special brake hoses (or lines)
fabricated or use adapters , as the Series III has metric fittings while the
MK2 has SAE.[Commercial use of subscribers e-mail addresses prohibited.]
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Jag-lovers Forums - Jag-lovers
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Don’t remember. I’ll take a look tonight.
Regards, Mark
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Ian,
If you check the archives I looked into this with my MK-I (using a 420
suspension). All can be made to easily bolt up just fine… but if you check
the “bump steer”, it is unacceptable. You will need some sort of custom tie
rods, idler arms, steering arms or a combination of all. Custom steering
arms would be the best solution, Gran Turismo sells ones for E-Types, maybe
they could make some specially for your installation.
After re-evaluating, I decided that, in all reality, the original front
brakes are actually pretty darn good (unless you are going to vintage race).
Regards,
Mike Waldron-----Original Message-----
From: ian [mailto:ianjen@sprint.ca]
Sent: Monday, September 10, 2001 6:55 AM
To: saloons@jag-lovers.org
Subject: [Saloon-lovers] SIII brakes on MK2
Has anyone put XJ SIII front brakes and suspension upright on a MK2?
Which axle should be used? If the SIII axle is used, can MK2 wire wheels
be used?
Thanks for any info
Ian
Toronto
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I checked the bump steer on my MK2 using a dial indicator at the front edge
of the rotor and moving the suspension through it’s full travel (springs
removed). I measured less with the SIII upright and rotor than with the
stock setup. This was with the upper A-arm mount reversed to lower the inner
ends of the A-arm (to keep it parallel with the lower since the SIII upright
is 1/2" or so shorter than the MK2).
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When you did this, did you have the steering box and idler installed with
tie rod ends connected? I measured mine the same way you did, with the same
setup and had an unacceptable amount of toe in/toe out change.
Having the upper A-arm mount flipped over lowers the roll center and has
more effect on camber than bump steer.
I finally decided on the stock 420 suspension on mine, but flipped over the
A-arm mount anyway. The lower roll center made a big difference in
cornering. I’ve got pictures of the MK-I running JCNA slaloms, and the
difference in the front tires attitude during cornering is quite obvious.
Regards,
Mike Waldron-----Original Message-----
From: Mesutter@aol.com [mailto:Mesutter@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, September 28, 2001 2:19 AM
To: saloons@jag-lovers.org
Subject: Re: RE: [Saloon-lovers] SIII brakes on MK2
I checked the bump steer on my MK2 using a dial indicator at the front edge
of the rotor and moving the suspension through it’s full travel (springs
removed). I measured less with the SIII upright and rotor than with the
stock setup. This was with the upper A-arm mount reversed to lower the inner
ends of the A-arm (to keep it parallel with the lower since the SIII upright
is 1/2" or so shorter than the MK2).
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Yes, the tie rod ends were connected (If we could just figure out how to get
rid of those pesky tie rods, we could eliminate bump steer on any car,
couldn’t we?). I’m using a Corsica steering rack on mine, so it’s not apples
to apples. But the bump steer with the stock uprights and the Corsica rack
was also minimal, just a bit more than with the SIII uprights. Flipping the
upper mounts changes the pivot point of the upper arms, and thus the
effective horizontal length at any given suspension position, but you may be
correct, the amount may be too small to be a factor.
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Hi, i know its been a long time, but did fitting the rack cause problems? It would be quite tight with the sump etc given the steering arms or some sort of bar would come to the centre of the rack? Ackerman? I have read using an XJ6 rack works but destroys Ackerman because its way too close to the front suspension cross beam… You’d need to dramatically alter the sump I believe to move it back about 70mm. cheers