[Saloon-lovers] T-5 Bellhousing mod was Re: 420 in Beijing

John,
I happened to look this weekend at a auto box from a MKIX that we have
sitting around for an idea of what needs to be done for the bellhousing to
be worked up to the T-5. It appears at first glance that the bellhousing
needs to be cut down in width somewhat to get it to work as well as modified
to accept the clutch fork, am I on the right path with that thinking? We
also have a couple of T-5 boxes sitting around,(Not the one I need though
from an S-10), so we were able to get a general idea of what we are up
against for getting that to work and what pitfalls we may encounter. Thanks

yes… it’s at the machine shop right now. I’m cutting it down. He does
these all the time for a race shop up the road and does not think they need
to be rehardened. The shaft is pretty hard without surface hardening.
Next come the bellhousing mods.

Chris Burdo
1965 3.8S(MOD)
chris@jag-lovers.org
www.burdospeed.com
Canterbury,Connecticut,USA
Jaguar Club of Connecticut_________________________________________________________________
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In a message dated 11/11/02 12:57:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cburdo@hotmail.com writes:

<< I happened to look this weekend at a auto box from a MKIX that we have
sitting around for an idea of what needs to be done for the bellhousing to
be worked up to the T-5. It appears at first glance that the bellhousing
needs to be cut down in width somewhat to get it to work as well as modified
to accept the clutch fork, am I on the right path with that thinking? We
also have a couple of T-5 boxes sitting around,(Not the one I need though
from an S-10), so we were able to get a general idea of what we are up
against for getting that to work and what pitfalls we may encounter. Thanks

Hello Chris,

If you are thinking about using an autobox bellhousing, take a look at the
center push clutch slave cylinders (Tilton, Mcleod, etc.). The opening in
the later autobox bellhousing is way to big and an adapter plate is needed.
If the input shaft is then too short to reach the pilot bearing, I’m think
hardened, sleeved extension, the diameters are wrong anyway. There are T5
adapter plates for early Ford bellhousings that look like they could be used
between the Jag autobox bellhousing and the T5, but alignment is critical.

Paul

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Hi Paul,
These adaptor plates can be found at most racing sites? We did give
thought already about making an adaptor plate and getting the centering
correct but didn’t give much thought as to what is out there in the way of
adaptor plates from vendors. Haven’t done much measuring as far as the
input shaft goes but I’m just starting out somewhat in this quest for a
reliable 5-speed. Right now I have a 4-speed with a cool switch that lights
up on the steering column…:-/

If you are thinking about using an autobox bellhousing, take a look at the
center push clutch slave cylinders (Tilton, Mcleod, etc.). The opening in
the later autobox bellhousing is way to big and an adapter plate is needed.
If the input shaft is then too short to reach the pilot bearing, I’m think
hardened, sleeved extension, the diameters are wrong anyway. There are T5
adapter plates for early Ford bellhousings that look like they could be
used
between the Jag autobox bellhousing and the T5, but alignment is critical.

Paul

Chris Burdo
1965 3.8S(MOD)
chris@jag-lovers.org
www.burdospeed.com
Canterbury,Connecticut,USA
Jaguar Club of Connecticut_________________________________________________________________
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In a message dated 11/11/02 6:00:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cburdo@hotmail.com writes:

<< Hi Paul,
These adaptor plates can be found at most racing sites? >>

Hi Chris,

I stumbled across one on E Bay made by “California Mustangs”, just a simple
plate with a 4.68" (don’t quote me) machined hole for the front bearing
retainer on a T-5 and the correct mounting holes. I was thinking (out loud)
line it up with a dial gauge, drill some dowel pins and drill and tap the
mounting hole for the autobox bellhousing. The center push release bearing
mounts to the front bearing retainer sleeve with two hoses (supply and bleed)
to the outside. Just hook it up to the master. I can’t imagine welding up a
reasonable clutch fork assembly. Hey, don’t you have some great posts on
removing an S Type gearbox with the engine in place that might fit in the FAQ
? Even “the factory” said it couldn’t be done. But they had never been to
Connecticut. Film at 11:00.

Paul

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