Sandcast Carburetors

Hi all, can you gentlemen tell me how to make these 2" Sandcast Carburetors look like new again.
thanks Kevin

Just been there, done that…
Best method is a competent business that does Hydroblasting (or Aqua Blasting) a non-abrasive form of 'Cleaning" only back to original surface finish - but tell operator exactly what you want, process can be varied…
Under NO CIRCUMSTANCES at all, use any form of abrasive cleaning regardless of any claims of how mild it may be - like bead blasting, plastic blasting, peanut shell blasting (and sadly many specialist carburetter repair/overhaul businesses invariably bead blast :frowning: )
And if you go the chemical cleaning route, do your resercah first and be very careful, as many chemicals react badly on cast aluminium…

Thank you for the info Rodger.

Hydroblasting (or Aqua Blasting) a non-abrasive form of 'Cleaning"

I have been getting this process done since 1993 when peter whyte here in WA purchased his own machine nobody had hearsd of the process here in WA at this point for the restoration of a Rolls Royce merlin motor and a Rolls Royce PIII and certainly what it does is extraordinary.
It must be effecting the surface in one way as the aluminum is almost impervious to grease oil marks etc
It is my understanding the in the water there is a glass bead that comes in something like 10 grades from something like flour through to something a little heavier and have a photo somewhere of every bottle line from finest through to coarsest.
So technically to undertake the cleaning process I believe there is an abrasive no matter how fine it is. If your operator was to use one from the coarser end it would tend to remove more?
Peter Whyte also was adding either a rust inhibitor or a cleaning agent to his water and ideally you should really use a distilled/demineralised type water ie chlorides fluorides etc found in our drinking water. As soon as it is finished being cleaned it needs drying of with compressed air immediately.
Years ago the removal of varnish from polished wood was noted by walnut shells but it is the dry processes that don’t give the same effect on aluminum.

Hydroblasting (or Aqua Blasting) a non-abrasive form of 'Cleaning"

As I said, process can be varied considerably, so you need an business/operator that knows what they are doing, and you need to know exactly and tell them what you want done. Hydroblasting can be a cleaning (non-abrasive) process only, but can have a range of additives added for different cleaning and final sealing effect if so desired… and if you have defects such as scratches or gouges in the aluminium, there are various ways of addressing that ahead of the actual hydroblasting process that can then merge in the overall visual end result, depending what you want, and depending on the defect how successfully or otherwise it can be rectified…

There are several businesses within all the Eastern States (Capital cities and country towns) that offer Hydroblasting, albeit none that I am aware of within the ACT, but after having many extremely successful/satisfactory jobs done in Melbourne by a long established business that really knows what he is doing and all the various capabilities of the basic process and the various preparatory processes, I have no need/motivation to look elsewhere…

Bottom line is you need to discuss your exact needs, and see if your preferred business can deliver…

Take a look at minute 12 of this video:

What sort of cleaning is it??

Looks quite amazing.

Tadek

Laser. (Twenty characters)

looks dangerous !!!

we were using the AC

[quote=“Terry_McGrath, post:4, topic:397730”]
glass bead that comes in something like 10 grades from something like flour through to something a little heavier and have a photo somewhere of every bottle line from finest through to coarsest.
[/quote]

Here is another set mounted to a board any idea what they are for .
Kevin

Carbs are sent out for vapor blasting and rebuilding.

The manifold end of the starting carb pipe looks like XK140 or later Mark VII.
Look for stamped numbers on the top of the 4 bolt flange against the board.

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The carbs Body numbers are AUG 6040 and AUG 2755
I have as well 1 carb with AUC 7081 with AUC 2009 M float and 1160 L top and 3496 float with a 1160 top but wait there is more I am having so much fun with this stuff . A carb with ACU 1342 with float # 1310 with a AUC 8410 top , one more SU 8092 band foat ACU 1390 with ACU 8452 top this one is in very poor shape. Running out of parts to identify, and maybe not I have one more box of stuff to go though.
Kevin

A mixed bag indeed.
See if there are any numbers here, usually a single letter for the year and numerals for the month. Sometimes an X for the XK series or a 7 for a Mark VII.


Unusual to see the body painted black.

Rolls and Bentley did that, along with the rest of the engine.

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I once bought a pair of black HD8 SU’s removed from a wrecked Rolls.

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Kevin,

A couple photos would help.
You advise the cast in body numbers are: AUG6040. I think you will find that should be AUC6040 and if so that most probably is a Jaguar H6 body casting (at least), but there should also be an etched in number alongside that determines exact application - the fact that the bodies are painted BLACK means however they could be ex Bentley or ex Lagonda that have twin carburetters that all have AUC6040 body castings, but with the etched in suffix, end up as AUC6043, AUC6047 or AUC6053. If Jaguar bodies they would have an etched in suffix that generates the cast in AUC6040 casting number to become either AUC6041 or AUC6044 part number bodies after machining etc.

The second body with cast in AUG2755 again should be AUC prefix, but regardless I don’t immediately recognize the 2755 number so again a photo would help, and once number verified I can then go through my extensive SU technical files and most probably identify…

But it would help if you can also take a photo of the top flange edge of both bodies - the top surface where it bolts onto gasket/inlet manifold.

All your other parts if numbered can be easily identified, but you need to positively identify main bodies first, as thereafter its a bit like a Meccano set (Lego if you are less than 50 yo :slight_smile: ) so can be easily mixed and matched… especially as you say you have a box of unknown origin parts…

Gee, Roger…what about Tinker Toys and Lincoln Logs?..American only?

I only know Meccano as the maker of Dinky Toys.


Perhaps in describing a building puzzle, the AC Gilbert Erector Set would be more familiar to Americans.

Wow… and here was me thinking surely everyone over 50 yo who has ever had an interest in Engineering, most assuredly started developing their interests with a Meccano set - these were ICONIC throughout Australia at least, and I dare say UK where they were made…

See pics…


And check link…

Vintage Meccano Collection All Original Including Pieces From Set No.10 | eBay

Had something similar…the Erector Set. Had a motor with a multi-speed transmission, girders, nuts, bolts , pulleys etc. It was awesome.