Scuttle vent seal - where to buy UK

a contestant on a TV reality show got a laugh out of me when asked what part of his body he was most proud of;

“Definitely my p…” he gloated

Not wanting to have a go at Barratts (we need them, and they are usually very helpful) but I recently fitted a condenser that I got from them and it failed on a dual carriageway less than 250 miles later. Luckily I had the old one in the boot and managed to swap them despite the lorries passing by. Had to lie down in a dark room when I got home though :smile: :smile: :smile:

I bought new rear spring front pads from them because my car was down at the back and the originals were obviously past their best but the material of the new ones was so soft they compressed down to the same height as the old ones when the weight of the car was on them. Had to use plan B to get the ride height correct.

There are some seriously crap spares around at the moment.

This might shed some light on the ‘2 sizes’ ?

I bought this kit from exactly this seller exactly a year ago. So far uninstalled, but I just went to check it and … it’s 43cm - too narrow for my Mk1.
The smaller seal in this kit is for the inner flap.

Two different seals are used in the scuttle vent assembly. The smaller one seals the vertically mounted flap (first photo) and the larger one seals the flap on the cowl top (second photo). The smaller seal has a C-channel molded into its outer perimeter to retain the seal to the body.

Good thought!

Brian

Hi,

Yup, I have returned a lot of repro parts due to this and sometimes they are completely wrong, all vendors.

The basic rule with at least most of them (I think Robey still marks the part numbers in somewhat this manner, and SNGB, DMG, SC) used to be that they had an asterisk in the end of the part number to indicate that it’s a reproduction part. Or a hashtag if it was an O.E. part, that is not “Genuine Jaguar” in a Jaguar bag or box, but the exact same part from Lucas, Burlen, AP or someone else still manufacturing those parts.

Like from Robey (a few years ago)

BD26308 Captive nut (genuine part)
BD26308* Captive nut (repro)

Or from another vendor:

C18556# Engine Mounting (O.E.)
C18556* Engine Mounting (repro)

Then they may have the parts they have made or subcontracted but that are approved and used by Jaguar Classic, saying “Jaguar Classic Part” or “Heritage Part” etc.

Still that does not guarantee quality. Yet, I learned to be more careful as the handbrake pads failed (one pad broke loose from the backing) after only ca 400kms on the XJ6C after a complete IRS rebuild. Fortunately getting the handbrake calipers out was possible (but not easy) without again dropping the whole IRS, like would have been the case in an E-type.

The parts that failed were:

JLM9518* HANDBRAKE PAD SET ALL IRS MODELS (repro)

And then I replaced them with:

JLM9518# HANDBRAKE PAD SET ALL IRS MODELS (Ferodo)

But I guess by now the original genuine parts or NOS parts are more scarce and quality does vary with all vendors. many of them sell each others parts anyways.

I try to stick to “Genuine Jaguar Part”, “Jaguar Classic Part” or “O.E.” whenever possible. It’s no guarantee, but usually I try to make sure in advance with the vendor that the parts are “as original” or “according to the original spec.” so I will then swiftly return them if I think they are not.

Cheers!

PS. But at least for the XK’s, E-types and XJ’s we can get parts, for the pushrod cars that’s not always the case, I have been cutting even my oil filter housing seal, water pump seals, thermostat seals, air cleaner seals, etc. myself as most of the ones I could get did not fit.

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An update on the scuttle seals. I now have the David Manners version and this is longer than the Robey but shorter than factory original. The DM one is 4-5mm longer than the Robey. Obviously a bit of stretch but rubber profile seems identical.

You need to let David Manners know Steve , so they can put it right !

DM have it correct. Robey have it wrong. I have discussed with both and Robey refunded me for the short seal and DM supplied me with the better fit seal.

Better but not the same , 7mm is quite a bit :thinking:

It’s only 2 / 2.5mm each end of the recess so I can stretch it 1mm and have a 1mm gap. The Robey one is in the bin. I have rubbed down the recess and have 3 screws where there should be spot welds? Maybe older cars had the vent flap screwed in?? I have some black Tiger Seal so will this hold it in place OK and fill the gap? Never used it so not sure.

This may help , looks like screws :thinking:

Yep seen that and also Fostering Classics who cuts out the whole scuttle area just to get to the hinge.! Mine is not seized so I hope to get an oil can to it before I button it all back up. I very much doubt if the screws will come out looking at them. This is not my project car so not spending too much time on it just enough to have as a daily runner.

The three holes are intended for countersunk screws that were retained by square nuts. These fasteners originally retained a metal strip to the underside of the cowl and its purpose was to deflect rain water down into the plenum while driving with the flap open rather than allowing the water to ingress into the cabin through the vertically mounted flap. Square nuts were used as one of the nut flats is supposed to rest against the flange of the metal strip which stopped the nut from rotating while tightening the screw. When the strip is installed, it is very difficult (if not impossible) to place a wrench (or spanner) on the nuts.

I found a trial fitting photo of the water deflector!

I hope this helps.

Brian

That explains it. I still have the deflector in place although a little bent as if the previous “restorer” had a go at removing it and gave up. I will leave well alone once I have lubricated the flap and fitted the rubber seal.

I have a seal from John Gordon and it is very short, they also said that it is supposed to be stuck to the flap not the body! I am sure my old one was on the body, …

That looks the same as my first one hardly covering the hole end to end. Manners sell the longer one. I have my original car which has been in the family since my Dad was the second owner so I know it was original and it has the seal on the body not the flap. I fixed my seal to the body yesterday with Black sealant which I squeezed out along the edges to fill the little gap around the rubber so the flap now sits flush with bodywork. It needs a little fettling with sealant to finish it off and leave a perfect fill which will be messy I think.

Send it back , tell them it’s not fit for purpose , get your money back , and explain to them we all know not to buy parts from John Gordon , as they clearly don’t know jack shit :rofl:

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Why don’t you say what’s on your mind Ian​:joy::joy::joy: .

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Problem is people believe what people tell them , if a part is wrong it’s wrong , someone may well have stuck the rubber too the flap , and thought they have done a good job :rofl: