tossing out the 50+ yr old seat belts.
any preferred style for a 63 ots?
would like to find the vintage style webbing also.
will be going with 2 point lap belts.
if i decide on lap/shoulder belts, where is the 3rd point anchor mounted?
tossing out the 50+ yr old seat belts.
If you value your sternum 3 points are the way to go. 3.8s don’t have collapsible steering columns. The shoulder mounts in 3.8 OTS cars are on the flat parcel shelf. They have a plastic plug through the captive nut if they haven’t been removed already. You’ll need to punch holes in the hardura once you locate the mount holes.
I bought these from Moss Motors
They’re equally as clumsy as the originals, and when the top is down - which in my case is all the time - a pita to adjust when either drivers or passengers change, but acceptable restraints. If you’re the only one driving the car you just set them up and leave them. Otherwise you pretty much need to raise the top to get access to the adjustment of the shoulder belt.
I installed 3 point retractibles and am very happen with them!
Dennis 69 OTS
One option you might consider is having your originals rewebbed.
How well do the retractables function with the top down, since the header dips well below the shoulder line? Also, did you have to cut slits into the top boot?
If you want to stay completely stock, contact Ssnake Oyl (https://www.ssnake-oyl.com/). Contact data below
All they do is restore seat belts. Not sure their depth of coverage on imports but covering the domestic market they return 100% original belts. They rechrome parts, clean or replace logos/emblems on the buckle, and replace the webbing with period correct but modern webbing.
Sit down when you ask the price – a friend sent 4 sets of belts (front buckets and rear bench/buckets) on a 1966 Thunderbird Convertible (a Thelma and Louise clone) he is building for a customer. Price estimate came to $720 – but that included a cloth tag on each belt that read “Manufactured by Ford” (or some such). Deleting that cloth tag dropped the price to ~$500 for the set. So figure ~$125 per seat — or so – approximately – -- sort of.
Order Line: 1-800-284-7777
Tech Line: (903) 526-4500
Fax: (903) 526-4501
Ssnake-Oyl Product Inc.
114 N. Glenwood, Tyler, TX 75702
My series two has headrests (which are always down) and I had a little belt loop made so that the shoulder belt goes between the headrest and the top of the seat.
After the belt goes through the belt loop, it drops down a bit and goes into the retractor that is lower than the top height of the seat.
If anyone wants photos, I can post
Dennis 69 OTS
would like to see that arrangement.
those are actually for shoulder belts? They look like they are in the wrong place.
They aren’t in the perfect place but yes, that’s them. It rides uncomfortably close to my neck, unlike the FHC placement which is on the side of the car over the shoulder.
Dennis, I’ve seen that arrangement for E-types before, with the inertia wheel positioned down below the midline of the seat back. Anything I’ve read about shoulder belts is they should be anchored no lower than shoulder level, preferably a bit above, otherwise when the body is pushed violently forward in a collision there’s a danger the belt will cause spinal damage as it bears down. I suppose if the seat back is sufficiently strong it will keep the belt from bearing downward but I doubt it’s design factors that in. That said, even the non-inertia belt anchorage on the rear bulkhead is problematic. I sometimes think the function of E-type seatbelts is to keep your body in the car so that it’s easier for the coroner to do his thing.
I also have those in several of my cars. They have a vintage look, and are nice quality.
They are made by Beam’s, and are available cheaper, and in something like 30 colors with a bit of Google searching.
That makes sense Nick. I think the major protection I look for is not to plant my face into the steering wheel!
The Swedes figured out the safest design of the shoulder belt is the shortest length of the belt between anchorage and waist belt plus just enough slack to insert a fist between belt and sternum. A shallow ellipse. The longer the belt the greater the arc of the ellipse and the greater the crushing force of the belt as the body is forced forward. A head on at 30 mph exerts a force of 30 Gs. Average sized person, about 2.4 tons of energy is being applied against that belt against its anchorages. The tighter the potential angle of the belt the greater the potential for injury. You could get pretty messed up in a 30 mph head-on on an E-type. 60 mph, forget it.
On my 2+2, I went with these:
If you call, they can do custom lengths. They look really nice. I did try inertia ones from Securon but pulled them as I was not happy with the mounting.
These ones look really period and work well.
Just installed these today in '64 FHC. Like most US/North America FHC’s I had the threaded boss for the 3rd point. The shoulder side is a good 1.5 feet too long. This is a non critical length and someone who can use a sewing machine can lop off as required without any effect on the unit. The best set up is still the very odd and quite excellent design of our old TR250’s.
the originals are located by an eye bolt. I take it you didn’t find any with the kind of hooks or the jaw kind that go into the eye?
Well the Swedes have rethought this and now the belt rests gently (when it works right) across your sternum and in the event of an accident, an explosive charge in the take up reel slams that belt tight across your chest. And, this is why when it fails-in normal non accident use- it costs $700 to replace.
Best to not buy new cars if possible.