I have a problem on my X100 where the alarm goes off. I remove the ignition key and close the door. If I reopen the door I have about 10 seconds to get the key back into the ignition switch before the alarm goes off. I also can’t get into the fob ‘pairing’ procedure. I found a schematic of the module which shows a keyfob aerial port. There’s co-axial port on the Security module but I reckon that’s for the telephone (the telephone module has been removed). By coincidence while I was replacing a rear bumper mount I found a length of thin cable tucked up behind the bumper that terminates at a pop rivet to the left of centre. Could this be the missing aerial? Has anyone ‘been there, done that’ with the central locking?
Since starting this I had a look at the removed telephone module and is doesn’t have a co-ax plug on it.
You don’t say what model or age of X100 you have. Mine is a '97 so that’s what I know about. The 4.2 litre cars may be different.
I have had a very similar problem which seemed to be due to the Security and Locking Module thinking that the alarm was set when it wasn’t. The clue here is that the red light on the shifter panel flashes.
I also discovered that it is quite normal for the alarm to sound after 10 seconds if you have locked and unlocked the car using the key in the door. Mine makes a quiet bonging noise and if I don’t put the key in the ignition within the time the alarm goes off.
Another thing that I discovered was that it is impossible to programme the fobs using the ignition on/off or headlight flasher sequence, that is described in many places on the internet, if the SLM is unco-operative because you can’t get the system into learn mode. If you scan the modules you may find that you have P1260 fault code in the Engine Control Module which can’t be erased in the normal way. This is a security or tamper code and it only disappears when everything is normal.
After many attempts, this is what worked for me. First sync the ECM and the Body Processor Modules using IDS. Then, erase and re-programme the fobs using IDS. I think that you will only be able to do this using the Jaguar diagnostic system - nothing else worked for me.
Next, using one of the now working fobs, unlock the car which tells the SLM to disarm the alarm.
Finally, (if your car will start you don’t need to do this but at this stage mine wouldn’t crank) using IDS erase and re-programme all the keys you have.
After I did all this, everything worked correctly and has continued to do so but I could not find a way of doing it without using the Jaguar IDS. I think there may be proprietary programmers that can also do it but I found that I needed to go through this whole sequence to get the modules talking to each other again. I hope that helps.
Yes, I’ve always assumed that is correct although I don’t know where the fob antenna is located. I know its position is different on convertible to coupe.
Thank you, for that info. We’re lucky to have someone on this forum who worked in a dealership when these cars were current. The dealers I have asked in the UK know nothing about them now.
The car is a much neglected ‘98 convertible. I didn’t pay a lot for it thankfully. I have a scanner that called out the incline sensor which I replaced with no apparent difference although I haven’t rescanned to see if it is still showing. BTW I opened up the old one to see how it worked and I thought this is complication for the sake of it. There are two compartments filled with fluid each with a pair of parallel plates immersed in the fluid plus a 2” square of electronic circuitry when (to me) a simple pendulum would have done the job suitably disabled when the vehicle is in motion.
IDS I presume is a proprietary diagnostic software. How does one get it and what platform does it run on and how useful is it?
The schematic I found online shows two antenna ports (key fob & telephone) which prompted me to ask the question. The actual module has one BNC?? male screw type coaxial connector mounted in the PCB
IDS Jaguar Integrated Diagnostic Software. You can find it online and I have it running on a Panasonic Toughbook with Windows 7, 32 bit. The version I have is 118.5. You will need an interface to connect it to the diagnostic port. I use a Rotunda VCM first version.
Here is a portion of the schematic which shows the antenna socket:
I’ve misread the schematic. I was looking at it on an iPad (smaller screen, smaller resolution) at least that’s my excuse. I have an old PC diagnostic cable set that I used on the BMWs I had in the past. The OBD connector has an old serial connector so I would have to find a pin-out or a converter to attach a USB connector. I have an older Compaq laptop that I use in my garage for internet so I could install IDS on that, assuming I can find the software you mentioned.
I’m going go have a look in the area that Bob mentioned for signs of the antenna cable.
As for the inclination sensor, recently I was in a scrapyard salvaging a door mirror switch from a '97 coupe and I had a look and it didn’t have one fitted. Maybe it’s a '98 onwards fitting. PITA in my opinion!
Art
PS
Where is the red light on the console that lights up when trying the fob pairing. We are talking around the gearshift…yes?
Yes, the red light is on the centre console just to the left of the letter P for the gearshift. Mine doesn’t flash when everything is OK. It only flashed when I had a alarm had been tripped.
I think the OBD to USB interface needs to be compatible with IDS or WDS (Jaguar Worldwide Diagnostic System - an alternative to IDS). Rotunda VCM or Mongoose or something like that.
The North American Market never had the ‘INCLINATION SENSOR’ so I can’t help with any of that.
I’m running a DELL C640 Windows XP Pro 32 bit with IDS 118.5 and a Rotunda VCM. (actually 2 of them with 2 VCMs)
I also have 3 WDS units running version 43. (the last version of WDS and the second version of IDS)
The MONGOOSE must use SDD125 or later versions. The SDD will usually revert to legacy IDS if the car is older than SDD was configured for.
The WDS and the IDS Rotunda VCMs are getting hard to come by. The Rotunda VCM was over $2000 US new but can be found used for about $400 to $800 with cables.
The WDS units were retired by Ford, Mazda, Jaguar and Aston Martin years ago and I picked them up for about $400 each.
The Mongoose ‘clones’ are cheap but the reliability is ‘iffy’.
On my car the only thing to the left of P is a Torx bit shaped screw? I read that this was to insert the key to get the shifter out of park. I unscrewed it expecting to find a bulb but it empty of illumination and has no lens so it’s not as if a bulb is missing. So if I don’t turn on the ignition and I let the alarm go off there should be something flashing on the console or dash and this will be the lamp that will flash during the fob pairing exercise?
That is the unit to buy if you want to easily communicate with Jaguars from 1995 to 2009 (and beyond) with IDS (and early SDD).
I have many versions of IDS that can be downloaded if you get a working unit with cables.
A cheap laptop with Windows XP Pro 32 bit or Windows 7 Pro 32 bit will work for communications. Look for a 1.8 ghz processor or greater.
You will be the ‘hit-of-the-neighborhood’ if you buy it and it functions properly as well as learning to operate it correctly.
Having the equipment and using it safely can be rewarding. You can be ‘in-over-your-head’ and damage VID blocks if you have no idea what you are doing.
I went to Jaguar training sessions paid for by the dealer to get proficient in it’s use as a ‘day-to-day’ tool.
Read all you can about the intricacies of the software functions before you attempt any module configurations or VID block changes.
Many horror stories of people damaging modules by not knowing how to operate diagnostic equipment.
Some progress! Eric, I found the lamp where you said it would be. Bob, thanks to your guidance I was able to find the antenna cable buried in the cables and connect it to the SLM. I then tried the fob pairing and got the lamp to flash but that was it as far as progress goes. My local friendly Jaguar independent guy is going to lend me a another fob to try tomorrow. Before packing up for the night I tried one more pairing. The hi-beam light on the dash flashes when I pulled the stalk but the headlamps didn’t light. What a frustrating piece of crap this car is becoming! The pairing failed too. I’m hoping it’s related to the battery being low so it’s on charge overnight. Now where did I put those matches?
I’ve had my share of frustration too but remember a lot of new thinking at Jaguar went into these cars, not always completely successfully and the oldest was made over twenty years ago. They were quite innovative at the time but you do need the right tools and quite a degree of patience. When I was trying to sort out why mine wouldn’t start there were times when I could quite cheerfully have scrapped it.
