Any tricks for taking this apart? I’m still at the patient stage using pb blaster and tapping with a mallet, however I’m moving toward the bigger hammer and heat stage, which usually gets me in trouble. Is that a two part spacee that fits on the upper bolt, or a 1 piece stepped spacer? Thanks
Is there a reason you need to take it apart? I left mine together as they seemed fine and, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it mentality…
Hello Stacey,
The part immediately to the right of the Lower Wishbone Lever is the Shock Absorber Lower Sleeve and is one piece. There is often rust between the full length of it’s bore and the bolt and its this that usually makes it tough to remove the bolt, more so than the bolt being stuck in the Lower Wishbone Lever.
Support the assembly so that the bolt is vertical with the thread upper most. In this position, apply penetrating oil and leave overnight before attempting disassembly. If you have access to a press, you will have more success than with a hammer. If you have an old socket that fits the hex head of the bolt, use that to make contact with the face of the Second Lower Wishbone Lever (the part the bolt passes through first in assembly). Arrange in the press with the Thread Upper Most. There will be enough axial clearance in the socket to allow the bolt to start moving. Once its moved to the extent allowed by the socket, movement will become easier and longer tubes can be used that don’t offer quite as good support as the socket.
Keep applying penetrating oil to any exposed areas of the bolt and even press the bolt back in the direction of assembly to help take the lubricant into the bores of the Wishbone Levers.
Regards,
Bill
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I want to pull it apart to plate it. I rattle canned it several months ago and now as I assemble it and paint is chipping off, I think I need to strip and plate. Lessons learned I guess.
I tried pretty much everything on this on two different cars. Three came off with plenty of heat from an acetylene torch and solid blows from a hammer. Put a nut on the end of the bolt to take most of the abuse. The fourth I ended up cutting off the head and driving the bolt out the other way with a punch. I replaced the spacer and bolt on all of these. Spacer is available from SNG, bolt just about anywhere.
John North
S2 Coupe
S1 Roadster
Thanks everyone. Is there an exploded diagram of the front end? The parts manual shows it just as one piece, with multiple part numbers attached to the plate.
…and this is considered the correct way to attack this part? I am about to break down all the suspension parts too and would love to know what goes to plating as an assy and what needs totally breaking down.
-Steve
In the photo it looks like the bolt might be a bit bent. If it’s not I wouldn’t take it apart unless it comes apart easily. It can be successfully plated as an assembly. I’ve done quite a few as assemblies.
The photo shows 5 pieces. The bolt, the shock bushing, the front and back arms and the pinion shaft that connects the two arms. Once the bolt is pressed out you can rotate the two arms back and forth on the pinion shaft with some oil and it will likely free them up without much fuss.
You can easily replace the bolt and bushing so don’t worry about hitting them with heat if necessary. I wouldn’t heat the arms themselves though or it might change their hardness.
Yes. We strip and plate the individual components.
Avoid powdercoat as if it gets in the TB splines or the holes you’re in for a horrible time removing it.