I’m working with a friend who has a Ser II car with triple SU’s mounted. I’d appreciate it if those of you who have done a similar thing would share any innovative method of getting a properly functioning system for actuating the chokes. Any pictures of the behind the dash mechanism would also be appreciated. He has bent one of the Ser II braided wires down and connected it to the triples choke rod but finds it does not work well, as braided cable doesn’t push back well (or at all).
My '68 Ser 1.5 came from Europe with triple SU’s and hard wire system, and has the Ser II dash, but I like to see if the dash mechanism on my car is the same as the NA cars.
1 Like
Thanks Doug - that’s the one on my Ser 1.5 as well. So it would seem that they used the same piece with the solid and braided wires, so you can just get a solid wire and install it.
You could install a return spring at the choke lever under the carbs.
You have to play with the adjusting nut and the wire itself.
On my original swap , put the triples in the closed or stop position then run the cable and lock it with the nut,
Go up top and see how much wire is left to feed it through the arm
I might have used a lawn mower set up and cut it back to fit.
You cant use the stromberg set up, its to short.
I removed one of the two cable sleeves, then replaced the cable with an appropriate sized section of piano wire. Works well.
David did you reroute the wire to exit the firewall in the lower Ser 1 position - that is below the carbs
To switch from twin strombergs to triple SUs, I found I had to change the choke cable to the same as the Series 1 cars, a cable with a solid inner cable like the heater cable (it might be the same cable).
The tricky part is getting the choke lever to connect to this cable as the set up for the dual carbs uses an outer cable stop too big for the triple carb setup cable. In your picture, that is the larger round thing with the hole in it, center.
My solution was to create an ‘adapter’ to the existing outer cable stop using a 1” length of brass tubing, 5/16” outer diameter. Drilled/reamed to the outer diameter of the new outer cable and this fits in the outer cable stop. I silver soldered this to the outer cable (before I realized this cable has a polyethylene liner) but no significant harm was done and it fits and works well.
I did change the inner cable pivot pin (new one from the usuals) as it fit better on the new inner cable.
I can send some pictures tomorrow and the part number from McMaster-Carr for the brass tube.
Terry, I’m using one of the two S2 choke cables. Coiled the other one and zip tied it to a frame rail. As far as I know it’s still going in and out.
I’ve got a 3.8 manifold and SUs with the Teflon seals on the shafts.
I did take every piece of the SU’s many linkage pieces apart, cleaned and lubed them. There were a lot of brass parts that were supposed to move and slide on each other, some through the carb body that didn’t. The old solid grease…anyway… you know the story. Nothing moved easily or at all.
No way a cable would make it all move.
Afterward, I decided Curto’s old rate to rebuild 3 SU’s was well worth it. FWIW
1 Like
Use Davids suggestion…
Here is a picture of my solution for the choke control in a Series II when converting to triple SU carb setup, referencing my reply post of 9/25.
The McMaster-Carr part number for the brass tube is 7782T411 (ultra formable brass, 5/16 OD, .065 wall thickness), reamed to the outer diameter of the outer cable. I did use a file to create a flat for the screw, but this was probably not necessary.
That kit must be sooooo smooth.
gtjoey1314