I’ve had good results from Booster Dewey in Portland, OR. Http//boosterdeweyexchange.com
He can send you one in exchange for your old one if he has it in stock. If not, he will rebuild yours.
I’ve never tried to take one apart. I know there is a spring inside and some special tools might be needed. It just seemed easier to buy one of his.
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Would not advice DIY rebuild of the booster, Demian - it requires brute casing separation, and special equipment to ensure proper casing reseal. The inside is fairly straight forward…
Besides, I’m not sure the advertised kit will fit your booster, though it might given Jaguar policy - but the E-type had some differences…
Thanks all for thoughts.
Yes, aftetwards thought i would prefer it done instead of doing myself for a change.
Although not much to it, special tools will be needed to open the thing.
Believe it requires some sort of hardcore twist, then compressing to twist on…rather not go there.
Will look at it more closely. See clearly what a s3 swap needs.
Will contact oregon place too, but I’m just not spending $400 on that. Not necessary when i know there are other options.
I’d be curious to find that out, too. I heard the same thing about the bolt pattern after I bought a S3 booster, thinking it might have a little more oomph than the S1. The S3 master can be used with either booster, BTW.
Yes, fitting the S3 master requires an easy swap of a few fittings. It’s easy to do because the hard tubing itself (3/16 inch) is identical in both SAE and metric–you only need to make a couple of lines with metric fittings at one end and SAE at the other. There is much about the swap in the XJ archives; several of us have done it. You can buy the S3 master at a much lower cost than the S1, and you get to use its integral reservoir, getting rid of the remote ones. It’s also easy to fit the S3 4-pot calipers/vented rotors if you want. There’s some argument about whether the swap makes a significant difference other than adding unsprung weight.
Talking about making a difference–I’ve never been able to figure out if the S3 servo is any better than the S1. Jaguar presumably changed it for a reason?
If you use the S3 MC and it’s reservoir, be CAREFUL as my hood had to be notched at the support as it hit the top of the MC cap… this causes fluid to leak out of the reservoir since it is
only mounted on rubber seals on top of the MC. You have to cut off and install one new flare fitting on the MC… be sure to double flare the end!
Or you can get a hard to find adapter and another piece of tubing… I did it each way one time…
True, dunno why the change. It would be worth it. I’d done brake lines in the past with the proper benders and flaring tools. Easy to do, and kinda fun.
Would need another kit for that.
And thanks on the hitting the hood possibility. boy would that send me over the top!
Ok, wished to see if there were any last pearls of wisdom before I get out and take a look at this thing.
Considering selling it for a later model, but every time I look at it and get in it I change my mind. They are such rare cars, especially in this condition.
Can’t beat old Jaguar interior smell.
Worth the price paid just for that.
But as an everyday car? whew…I’m a nut and masochist… as ever.
Ah, could be fine.
I had a 68 EType as everyday, never once touched the Strombergs on it.
So they can be very reliable once sorted.
Within my head all is so perfect!
Although I love the old steering wheels, the thought of a moto-lita wood type is my fantasy at moment. Silly as it is.
Jeez, how far away I am from that kind of frivolity it is not even laughable.
Thank you Tony. Great info.
I wonder if anyone knows of the same brake booster used on other cars to swap?
Will do a search for Girling Supervac, contact brake rebuilders, and worse case go the S3 route.
Cutting off studs and taking it somewhere to have them spot welded in the S1 locations is not a big deal really.
It is the bolt on point (I believe) at the firewall is what the problem is. Didn’t even look today as I Was concentrated on other things.
Yeah…drove around neighborhood today. Getting the “woosh” sound when pressed and it is a brick, so…
Interesting. But I presume that each servo would require use of the corresponding push rod–otherwise no problem.
As Roger mentioned, fitting the S3 master cylinder to the S1 Servo is straightforward (using the S1 push rod) but the integral reservoir of the S3 master can contact a bonnet reinforcement that is directly above. Mine just missed, his required fettling. We have a superb local restoration shop whose co-owner recently did a S2 Coupe for himself. He is a perfectionist; the car is magnificent. One detail I noticed was a ~5/16 inch spacer between the servo and the S3 master he had fitted. It was nicely polished. I asked if it was there so as to avoid the master/bonnet interference and he said that it was. He added that he had fitted a longer push rod to match. I wonder if the S3 servo accomplishes the same thing, and for the same reason?
@John: I looked up boosterdewey . He appears perfect. Will remember and use him in future. Absolutely.
Not worth doing myself or swapping mess.
Thank you very much.
PS. Wow on the xj12s and e type. Nice. I’ve had 2 xjs v12s in my past, never had a problem. An e type too, 68 series 1.5 … Everyday. Sold it for 10k prior to moving abroad 15 yrs ago.
Just returned to States, sigh, how prices have soared!
@RobertLaughton : Thank you very much. Genuinely appreciate.
I will remember you too! Shipping is always doable…
I looked with interest at the Demian’s link to the ebay site offering a rebuild kit and was surprised to see the vendor won’t ship to the UK ! I have seen this before where its like we can’t be trusted to rebuild things ourselves. I think these challenges are a big part of the fun of running a classic car and very rewarding too. … Sorry - it just gave me a Victor Meldrew moment!
FWIW, while I am of the same heart and would rarely if ever allow another to do my work for me, however it is wise to choose one’s battles.
I’ve restored Jaguars (for me) since I was a kid. And how many unfinished projects has one come across due to “burnout”?
For $155 done well and professionally by a family owned business?! Can’t beat that. (Although I see you are in the UK, you should have similar options no doubt.)
Looking at the servo housing I can’t clearly see how it comes apart.
Must be some sort of twist lock, yet how to do so without damaging it and proper tools, nah, not worth it.
There is more than enough to do on this car, and it is nice for once to have someone else do the work and be able to simply plug and play…
a simple jig (or vice) is used to hold the 4 studs, a long metal piece is made to twist the 2 upper bolts,
lubricate the joint and twist, pry any resistant tangs with a screwdriver. A lot of force is needed
The problem is they can get skanky or rusty inside the main large bore, and the BIG rubber, (which is not included in many rebuild kits, and wont seal on the surface)
I personally would get both master and booster OH by a pro, and sleeve MC, as the MC are known to fail “unexpectedly” after 30+yrs, and your brake pedal goes to floor!
The same model was used in both GM and International models of the era.
You should not have a problem getting it OH, and if its $300, that would be very acceptable?
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The servo housing does not ‘come apart’, Demian - the two halves are crimped together…
This is done, and undone by machinery, but as Tony says; brute prying will get it apart. The problem is to reverse the procedure - and get the seam air tight. A pro has all the wherewithal and competence - certainly the way to go as tony advises…