I finally got around to get underneath enough to look at the modulator at the rear left of the trans.
While I couldn’t get completely beneath it, helluva thing, I have no idea how to get to the damn thing?
1) There is a very sturdy, thick, curved steel cover surrounding it which I just don’t see how the hell it is removed?
Sure is thorough and solid as can be, obviously to protect from road debris. I’m impressed, but…cannot get to the modulator otherwise.
I only ever got 2 gear changes as it is not connected to the intake manifold or modulator, and never experienced 3rd gear yet as I’m bringing her back from the dead.
2) There is a short flexible hose at the modulator end, attached to an aluminum tube going to intake manifold, but where is the tube end within engine bay?
I see what i believe it is, similar diameter, coming up just below starter relay making a long vertical loop just behind intake cam cover, coming down beneath the manifold area(if I recall)…where obviously a hose attaches to manifold.
This it? Have no idea how I’d trace it from the trans otherwise…
And how do I get to the modulator with that cover protecting it? Never thought I’d be unable to figure something out like this, but…I don’t see where it is bolted or connecting to?!
I just checked both the parts manual and the service manual and your question is unanswered. I know the substantial stamped part you refer to. Both manuals show that it has no fasteners! It’s apparently wedged in place in some manner. But I believe you can remove the modulator if necessary just by unscrewing it, similar to an OP transducer. You can certainly adjust it–I’ve done that. You just remove the vacuum hose and the adjustment screw is inside the barb.
You are correct as to the engine side connection. The tall vertical loop is, I presume, an anti-syphon provision for very small ATF leakage. If the modulator were to spring a leak, it would be inadequate.
I’ve been well trained at using my fingers blindly to get at things with these cars, but i couldn’t do that either.
That substantial steel sheath cover made it impossible to even attach the hose to.
It popped off. I need a slightly longer vacuum hose piece attached to the aluminum tube so it won’t pop off, but i can’t get to it.
Interesting note on motive for that vertical loop in tube.
You’re alright…despite what everyone says about ya
I don’t see how i could remove modulator either as it is. I cannot see it, much less touch it.
That sheath is so substantial i can’t bend it away either.
Weird.
Will need to really get beneath it and see then. I can’t do anything with it in place. grrr…dead center beneath car too and all I have is an inclined driveway and jackstand operation.
Not so embarrassed now that I couldn’t figure it out! (not that I care about embarrassment)
Maybe it’s hammer time…nah…gotta be bolted somehow.
Will update what I find…whenever that is.
Thanks again. You obviously know your stuff Robert(from posts I have read).
This place wouldn’t be the same without you.
**
While the shield surrounds the modulator, Demian - the vacuum hose extends rearwards and should be easily accessible. Adjusting the modulator involves unplugging the vacuum hose and inserting a screwdriver. And the shield should be bolted to the gearbox body - removable for modulator access.
Main pint is to ensure there is manifold vacuum at the modulator hose. With no vacuum input or a failed modulator; upshifts will relay on engine rpms and road speed - and will be seriously delayed, likely with no 2/3 upshift…
Have you felt around the shield to eventually locate fixing bolts…?
Demian,
The shield around the modulator is held in place by a single nut, at the very top C8737/3 in this drawing from the parts manual . The parts manual also shows two hose clips on the short hose at the modulator. If you remove the modulator don’t lose the steel pin that connects it to the valve inside the case.
John Hudson
85 XJ6 SIII
Thanks. Good to know! I looked at the same diagram, missed the nut, and of course the shield itself is shown with its attachment hole hidden from view. One can just make out a groove in the bottom of the tailpiece, and I though that perhaps the shield was wedged into that. Too lazy to have a look on my own car, of course.
Thank you very much for this.
For the first time in all my years messing with these cars I am beginning to FINALLY appreciate the importance of parts manuals!
Awesome. Thank you.
I thought it must be more than being wedged in there, although in part it may be.
Again, I was beneath it yet did not have quite the room necessary to fiddle.
Nevertheless, that is one substantial piece. Perhaps a good sign as it reflects nobody has messed with it.
Yet I could NOT even get my fingers in there AT ALL to reconnect the rubber hose end to modulator, much less adjust it.
I DID note what must be the bolt referred to within diagram, yet even then thought, boy, what the heck can I use to even get in there…?!
Seemed far more than one bolt could hold it on that well
I believe it may be a combination.
Per the diagram that groove cut into the piece may wedge into another on the face of trans creating a sort of lock and such a strong fit.
We shall see.
Thank you all for taking time. It is genuinely appreciated.
When I get it out I’ll make a photo and add it to this post for posterity…fwiw.
Kind regards
Yep. Hoping that is why. no 2-3 shift. Disconnected at both ends.
Boy that is one substantial piece I gotta say. Can see how these transmissions were used in tractors or whatever!
Again, it does hopefully reflect originality and its untouched state (fingers crossed).
It is fun when things are fixed or come to life easily isn’t it?
Just got all the gauges working for the first time! Good feeling
Hi Demian. I think if you use a socket and extension bar it shouldn’t be too hard to undo the nut which is right at the top. No need to stick your fingers in there. I’ve done this myself some years ago.
John
