Hi all - I wondered if anybody can clarify the correct procedure for achieving the 1/16" freeplay at the slave cylinder rod. The book suggests that it can be measured more easily with the external return spring disconnected. However, with the spring disconnected, the internal slave cylinder spring extends the piston toward the fork.
So my question is which method is correct?
Keep the external spring attached and adjust the rod to achieve the 1/16" freeplay with the piston retracted, or…
Disconnect the external spring, allow the piston to extend, and then adjust the rod to achieve the 1/16" freeplay in that position.
2 is better. Picture what you’re trying to achieve. Inside the bell housing, the release bearing rides on the clutch release surface. When the system is at rest, you want the spring to be able to pull the fork a little further forward. That way, the bearing won’t ride on the release plate. So you allow the piston to move all the way towards the forward end of the cylinder, then adjust so that the spring can pull it another 1/16” forward. You need to remove the spring to see what’s going on.
I always point out that it’s a good idea to observe clearance though the peep hole in the bell housing before you wrap up. This because fifty years of wear and tear may result in more than 1/16” of looseness in the pivot pin, so you may need a bit more to achieve clearance at the release bearing.
Hi Michael - from your description, I think you are saying to make the adjustment with the slave piston at the forward end of the cylinder, i.e., retracted, which is what I was trying to describe in option 1. The difference sounds like that the adjustment should be made with the spring disconnected, but with the piston manually held in the retracted position. The disconnected spring allows you to easily see the freeplay, while holding the pistion retracted should simulate the retracting force of the external spring. Please verify that I understood you. Thanks.
Let me not get this confused, but keep it simple. Take the spring off. Grab the release arm and pull it towards the front of the car. You should have about 1/16" of travel. If not, adjust. Then replace the spring.
The late Great Jerry Mouton taught me to use a 1/16 drill bit for this procedure and that has always worked well. How did he say it, tighten till there is no play then back off the lock nut the width of the 1/16 drill bit then tighten the rod down till the loch nut touched then tighten*
Cheers,
LLynn
Thank you gents. I had previously adjusted this thing as if it were a hydrostatic unit, and had 3/4" freeplay, which makes the thing behave as if it has air in the system. Hopefully, adjusting it properly will alleviate the need to pump the clutch pedal.
Problem solved by proper adjustment of the clutch slave cylinder. That was my last major hurdle to complete a 20-year, complete, dip the body in a tank to strip to bare metal, rebuild every component, install new wiring harnesses, etc. restoration.
